My first turbo free from a friend. has an oil leak explained to me as leaking into the intake side of the turbo (guessing that's the compressor side). Its an XSPower turbo Type: T04E T3/T4 A/R .50. what im wondering is what am i looking to replace to fix the leak? Im guessing its the ring looking thing on the center highlighted in the first pic. and second question is: Is the spiderweb looking thing on the inner side of the housing supposed to be slightly domed inward? (shown in 2nd pic)
ok higlighted it in red cause after posting I seen it's kinda hard to see
pic 1:


pic 1 higlighted


pic 2:



Modified by Rigginit at 1:10 AM 1/23/2007


Modified by Rigginit at 1:45 PM 1/23/2007

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Rigginit &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> what im wondering is what am i looking to replace? </TD></TR></TABLE>

the whole thing... with something that isnt a piece of ****

 

hahaha i feel ya ... but seriously now.. it worked good on his car for about 8 months then started leaking. he said because of the oil pressure being too high in it or something. he got a turbo to replace it that boosts sooner so he didnt bother with this one. just tryin to get it going good. (at least good enough for free). It actually was still doing fairly well as a turbo other than leaking oil over a few days into the intake area.... which i know isnt a good thing

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Rigginit &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">. It actually was still doing fairly well as a turbo other than leaking oil over a few days into the intake area.... which i know isnt a good thing</TD></TR></TABLE>

riiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiight.

 

and this helps me how? ....Im sure you know exactly what your doing because youve doen this all before correct?.... well i haven't... say this wasn't a XSpower ... then what would the answers be? If you see that the parts in the pic are screwed and aren't basing it off of brand alone let me know so I know what im looking at ... other than that.. you're not helping at all here.

 

anyone know? just tryin to get it back to "ok" status to play with. thanks

 

Generally people just replace SSauto turbos when they start to leak. I got almost 10,000 miles off of my xspower t3/t4 .57 on three different cars before I had to buy a new one.. the seals were completly destroyed. Only $160 and I got the exact same thing and it spools fast and smooth

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BoostedJeff &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

the whole thing... with something that isnt a piece of **** </TD></TR></TABLE>

Bewhahahahaha

So true, i love how people think that getting 10,000 miles out of a turbo is like an accomplishment.

Buy once, buy right....

 

just get rid of the damn thing because it is a piece of crap...also, dont be surprised if this happens again (provided you fix this one)

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by urbansi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Bewhahahahaha

So true, i love how people think that getting 10,000 miles out of a turbo is like an accomplishment.

Buy once, buy right....</TD></TR></TABLE>

Those 10000 miles could be a span of 5 years! Considering these guys don't even drive their cars because it's down all the time, and half the life of the car is untuned and couldn't even be boosted properly

I would have gone through 3 and a half turbos if I ran an XSpower turbo... wait, I'm talking about GOOD XSPower turbos not even counting the ones that fail right during start-up

It's cheap, and you can't argue when guys even buy USED XSPower turbos for $50 or less. Problem is that when these turbos fail, you gotta keep taking things apart to replace them. It makes hell of a mess when the oil leaks everywhere, manifold studs and bolts get fatigued and they keep backing out, hose clamps and lines need to be replaced eventually after disassembling them too many times, etc.. And when the turbo is about to die, the car runs like a gutless bag of **** and you'd probably lose a race with a Geo. Not including all the downtime involved which puts our daily drivers out of the question to run these turbos, etc...

 

Alright already lol... i get it. It wont go on any car i promise... but the question still lies what IN GENERAL would keep the oil from leaking into the compressor side of the housing? would it be that ring or one similar in another type of turbo? and IN GENERAL do most turbos have that web looking pice on the inside of the housing? and if so are they normally slightly domed inward?

 

NOW THAT U ALLREADY HAVE THE TURBO SEND IT TO GARRET TO REPLACE ALL THE INTERNALS THEY ARE THE SAME ANYWAYS ,

 

In general, the seals are shot. The turbo needs to be completely rebuilt, and the fact that it's an ebay turbo it will probably mean that you'll get a few more miles out of it if you do and then it'll **** out.

 

The seals are bad, it needs a rebuild.

What everybody is trying to tell you is that turbo is not worth the money it would cost to rebuild it.

Since you're so intent look here -&gt; https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1397101

 

You could try running an oil restrictor. That will reduce the pressure on the seals from here on out. If you don't have it installed yet, send it here to have it totally rebuilt with Garrett internals for $250.

http://www.blaastperformance.c...build

 

Just get rid of the thing,it's a POS I had TWO rebuilds on my XSPOWER crappy turbo.The second only lasted a month.Buy a proper Garrett turbo not a chinese poor quality knockoff.
I found that it was the housing (CHRA) that was out of spec on mine.The seals were good.Seriously dump that thing