So I have this 63/60 T3 off a thunderbird that smokes like a chimeny. I put a restrictor on it and choked it. Let all the oil burn out at idle, and then gave it just a little pressure and it made my neighborhood look like it was on fire. So I got a rebuild kit (from random member of another site)
Looking through the archives, I didn't find much, so I thought I'd document it.

































Ok, so I slacked a little on the assembly pics. But you take out the c-clips, and the bearings will fall out. Then you put the new bearings and c-clips in. There will be extra stuff in your rebuild kit. I think they make it for alot of different turbo's and then just sell it as a universal kit.
It really wasn't bad. The hardest part is taking it apart like a baby trying not to damage anything. Other than that, it was good times.
I'll be putting this back on my 91 integra (Project: cheap ****) in the coming days.
Let the bashing begin.

 

"half moon thingy on compressor side"

Nice

Pretty much what i did for my t3/t04e though there are some different parts for the t0re compressora

/edit: forgot to say that half moon thingy is the thrust bearing

 

lol i love gatorade!!!! good write up too. ms paint is the best!

 

Hey, if I knew the technical term and threw it out there, I'd get a million questions like "what's the discumbobulator retaining half spherical connector?" or whatever it's really called.
Between you and me, we'll keep it real.

 

So how come it cost almost a new turbo to rebuild a turbo? Am I missing something here.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BodyKits NW &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">So how come it cost almost a new turbo to rebuild a turbo? Am I missing something here. </TD></TR></TABLE>

how come full-race charges $1300 for their ******* manifold?

people are stupid enough to pay it

/edit: and when they rebalance it they charge u lots of money because they can; 7 out of 10 cases it doesn't need to be rebalanced; especially if you keep the wheels lineed up with one another

 

Great job Steve...now for the advanced super scientific double blind product testing!!

With Garrett's interest in the aftermarket really starting to peak, I think it'll be interesting to see turbos become more and more modular. Just the other day I noticed that Garrett has now made available their BB CHRA's to be retrofitted into existing turbos. It would be great to have wider availability of various turbo components to keep them from being so disposable.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ComputerJLT &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
how come full-race charges $1300 for their ******* manifold?
</TD></TR></TABLE>

You seem to have the damndest time keeping on topic and not stalking FR.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BodyKits NW &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">So how come it cost almost a new turbo to rebuild a turbo? Am I missing something here. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Consider that same question anytime does a couple grand motor swap into a couple grand civic...same answer.

 

I didn't get it, but anyways, where do you buy these rebuild kits? If I were to rebuild my GT35e for example.

 

Nice writeup Steve Isn't the wife going to be pissed about that towel?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BodyKits NW &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">So how come it cost almost a new turbo to rebuild a turbo? Am I missing something here. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Well I'm sure you can rebuild it yourself and hopefully it is still balanced well enough to go a while, but it usually cost a bit more because the wheels get balanced and they make sure that the shaft is with in speccs for the bearings.

So how much do you people pay for Turbo rebuilds?

 

very entertaining

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by stealthmode62 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> Hey, if I knew the technical term and threw it out there, I'd get a million questions like "what's the discumbobulator retaining half spherical connector?" or whatever it's really called.
Between you and me, we'll keep it real.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

hehehe, good write up...but I think it is a good idea to use the technical term. Cause when it comes time for someone to buy the rebuild parts, they're gonna talk to the turbo parts guy and say "I need one of those half moon shaped thingies" and the parts guy is gonna be all "huh?". I would much rather ask the guy for a thrust bearing, so we both know that I'll get the right part.

This might help a little with your writeup:

TURBO PARTS LIST

 

Very enjoyable read.

 

i just did the same thing to a .48/.60! i took the exhaust side of a volvo i had, with blown seals in the chra, and threw the compressor side from a .60/.63 ford turbo.

it rocks, i love it. i had precision balance it for 60 bucks though, because i was scared. it probably would have been fine though.

 

Nice work

Did you replace the comressor seal as well? Or did you just do the bearings?

I had to replace the compressor seal on my turbo because it was leaking oil terribly.

Oh, here's a little better picture of the clips you were talking about that hold the bearings in place.

 

I needa replace my compressor seal also. Wonder what this will cost me.

Good ****....

 

I bought the kit from someone who had already purchased it. I'm pretty sure they are on ebay ect. for somewhere in the neighborhood of $60-$100.
I didn't replace the compressor seal. All I did was take the center section apart and whatever parts I could take out, I matched them up with the parts from the rebuild kit and replaced them. If I couldn't take it out (which I didn't see anything else that looked like it would come out) or if there wasn't a matching part in the rebuild kit, I didn't replace it. I'm a simpleton by choice.

I think the reason why people charge so much to do this is probably because they have lots of money in machinery that checks all the little technical things. If the turbo didn't cost $150, and it wasn't going into a $400 car, than I may have been able to help them pay off those machines, but I tend to not be that guy. lol

I bought my 92 hatch in prime condition with a bad headgasket for $500. The kid that owned it before was quoted $1000 to change the headgasket, when I did it with $30 and 4 hours of my time. Again, it all comes down to people not having the knowledge, being scared, or being lazy. Without those things you can save a bunch of money in life. Cars or otherwise.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ComputerJLT &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

how come full-race charges $1300 for their ******* manifold?

people are stupid enough to pay it

/edit: and when they rebalance it they charge u lots of money because they can; 7 out of 10 cases it doesn't need to be rebalanced; especially if you keep the wheels lineed up with one another</TD></TR></TABLE>
You are such a tool!! LOL!!

 

i think the most important thing was missed..


marking the turbine and the shaft so when u put it all back toghther its nice and balanced..

 

Yeah, nice writup. However I don't see you replacing the metal ring turbine seal, which is arguably the reason you need to rebuild a turbo most of the time. And I also don't see you making any attempt to keep the turbine balanced...

 

This is one of the best write ups I've ever read! Great job! I'm actually thinking of rebuilding my turbo also. Have some shaft plays. I wonder if replacing the parts will cure the problems?

Again, the thinging is awesome!

 

The turbo didn't seem to have more shaft play than any other used turbo I've ever come accross, but after the rebuild there is absolutely no shaft play at all. This thing is m4D tYt3.

I missed putting it in the write up, but I did mark the compressor wheel and the shaft, however, when puttting it all back together, the tightening force needed to tighten the nut made the wheel turn when the shaft didn't. It's close, but the lines aren't matched up. Needless to say, if I was worried about it, I would have taken it off and redid it. I figured it was either the lines being off a bit, or one of the blades of the compressor wheel breaking from me trying to hold on to it and torque the nut.

Oh, and the metal ring turbine seal. There was one "c-clip looking" ring near the turbine side that I didnt' take out. The closest thing I had to it in the rebuild kit was a similar sized c- clip that looked like a little piston ring (exactly), but what I thought it was to replace (the only other thing in the turbo) was a complete 360* washer type deal. I figured if there wasn't a gap in the one in the turbo, than I shouldn't go through the trouble of breaking it out to put one WITH a gap in it. It just didn't seem logical, and my logistics meter told me I did the right thing.

 

good effort...but at 110K RPM is it gonna hold together since it is now unbalanced?

 

I rebuilt a .63/.60 t3 from a 300z with a rebuild kit from turbocity.com for my daily driver almost 4 years ago and at that time I did not know it needed to be balanced so I put it back together complelety unbalanced. 4 years later and the turbo is still going as strong as ever with no problems and it probably has well over 50k miles on it.

 

where would u get a rebuild kit for a greddy 18g turbo? is it possible to make a normal turbo ball bearing?