lookin to you guys to help me out with this. A good friend of mine is looking to build his rsx for all motor power. doesnt want the hassle of boost (to my dismay) but as i am a forced induction guy im not to versed in the all motor world on quality parts and a good build direction. So what im looking for is some advice on a good start for parts and some ideas on a direction for him to take. IE: what intake manis are good, what cams, etc..

i would like to start him off with boltons before having to get into the motor but im open for any advice you guys may have. This will be a DD so nothing to crazy, but a good 250 to 300 hp is the goal.

 

he wants 300hp with nothing crazy??? define crazy.

 

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1868865
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread/1769778

 

lol ok maby 300hp is a large goal for all motor. like i sadi im a boost guy. what i mean as far as nothing to crazy is, it needs to maintain good reliability on the street. so if 14:1 pistons are to unreliable for a street car then i would like to know. like i said for right now i would like to stick with boltons that will yield the best power for money spent. things he can do in stages before cracking open the block. if pulling the motor is needed then so be it. but i would like to help him do bit by bit for right now. just looking for the right irection to push him in.

and swapping a k24 block in is more than hes looking to do right now. i guess i really didnt think 300 with the k20 was that hard to make.
school me here people.

 

start off with quality bolt on's. dtr or other race header. matching exhaust. intake. rbc i/m. then work on the internals. ips k2 cams and vavletrain. and kpro for tuning.

 

back to your earlier post... 300whp is very hard to make... EDIT* it's not hard... it's expensive and takes time.... To answer your other question, 14:1 c/r pistons are way to high to run on a street car using pump gas... My 13.2: type r uses 93 octane with 2 gallons of 109 octane mixed in every time i fill up. I would reccomend 12.5:1 being the highest if you want to stay on pump gas. But then again the lower the compression the lower your chances of reaching 300whp. It really all lies with your tuner... TUNE TUNE TUNE, and when you're done with that, TUNE some more...

On another note, think of a n/a car like a person running in a marathon... Most of your power comes from the head, and the better your motor can breathe, the better it will run and the more power you'll get. Do it right the first time, because n/a is really expensive, and you don't want to have to go back and replace anything after you've made your mind up... make sure he gets the right header/exhaust, and make sure the headwork done on it is done by someone with an accurate flowbench and a good reputation and knowledge.... Don't listen to ppl also who believe you can only get that much power out of a car with ITB's either... i've seen B-Series make up to 300whp w/o ITB's... not to mention what a well built K could do...... good luck, and if you have any serious build questions you can shoot me a pm and i'll give you my 2 cents on what more could help you achieve your goal...

 

cool thanks for the advice. like i sadi im low compression 35psi realm, so this is like latin to me.

So ive talked it over and im going to start with an intake manifold and good header system, and the probably talk to RLZ about the headwork.

now i was looking at the toda race header, and the toda itb's bad good yes no? im not finding a whole lot for manifolds geard twords n/a

and as far as what dood posted, i have no idea what any of the abbreviations mean. can you elaborate a little bit?

 

the rbc intake manifold off the 06+ civic si's have been shown to make some good power. i wouldnt even consider itb's for a street car.

ips makes some of the best cams for the k series. http://www.intrinsicperformance.com/

dtr/ssr makes headers for the k and so do other companies.

kpro is hondata's tuning device for the k. http://www.hondata.com

 

what d000d said.... don't do itb's for a street car. ITB's in my honest opinion aren't worth the money/tuning that they require. Go with a custom intake manifold made for the exact setup you'll be running. Don't buy any off the shelf intake manifold... talk to someone like RLZ or Endyn, or Import Builders, or someone who customs builds intake manifolds... that will be your best bet. And as far as header goes, if you're looking to spend that much on a Toda header, DON'T... if you have that much money to play around with pm SMSP or go to SMS-Products.com... contact dave... HE MAKES THE BEST HEADERS FOR YOUR SETUP HANDS DOWN.... or Randy at RMF, but he is a bit backed up now and probably hard to get ahold of... trust me, do it right the first time... and try not to buy to terribly many "off the shelf" products when it comes to the flow of your engine. Let a Flow expert go into further depth with you on why not to. It's not horrible to do, but if you spend the money the right way the first time, you won't be regreting the expensive shelf items you bought. Any more questions?

p.s. i feel where your comin from (35psi realm) welcome to the darkside of naturally aspirated, MAUAHAHAHAHA, you can get deep real quick with n/a so ask a million questions before you do anything... and i mean anything... from fluids to internals and from header to muffler... ASK ASK ASK, and just keep asking... until your positive what you want.

 

ok so no itb's for a street car. Im proably going to take the head to rlz and talk to them about an intake mani as well.

the link dood provided for the cams did not work and i couldnt find the correct site through google either.

and yeah liljdm im trying to ask as much as possible and get a better understanding here. you also bring up a good point, what the hell spark plugs should i be looking at. Again not to sound like a broken record, but i know what to run for boost should i assume its the opposite for N/a as is everything else? Also is a larger exhaust say 3" too much for an n/a car? he has a jasma race catback right now. 2.5" i believe..... (taking notes here)

 

check out the all motor forum at http://www.k20a.org lots of guys over there making some serious power.

 

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread/1873913

 

i'm not gonna send you off to another forum or anything, because you chose to get your questions answered in this forum for a reason i'm sure... that's what this forum is for... guidance, personal experiences, and advice...

With that being said, i've never personally owned a K-series anything. I have seen many builds, helped on a few builds, and watched a few builds from stage one to being tuned... So, back to your question.... If you are wanting to make some serious power, i would definately go for the 3" exhaust. Every 1/4" after 2 1/4" is like an extra 13% increase in flow. With a 3" you should be able to get your back pressure to 0, assuming you have a nice wide opened muffler like an N1 or similar style. I wouldn't go with any off the shelf exhaust either unless it's a thermal turbo 3" catback... go to KTELLER.com and check out there stainless steel madrel bent pipes you can buy, then have a muffler with an 80mm inlet welded up to the exhaust and you got yourself a true mandrel bent custom 3" exhaust... or just have a local muffler shop do it, as long as it's mandrel with as least amount of bends as possible... You can always go bigger than 3" too, but then noize becomes a large deciding factor. RLZ or Endyn is who i would reccomend to speak to about your head. Head flow, and both manifolds are in my opinion the most important part about your build.... Also don't forget to pick out the Throttle body before having your intake manifold made, so that way you can have it port matched...

what else?

 

i'm not gonna send you off to another forum or anything, because you chose to get your questions answered in this forum for a reason i'm sure... that's what this forum is for... guidance, personal experiences, and advice...

With that being said, i've never personally owned a K-series anything. I have seen many K builds, helped on a few K builds, and watched a few K builds from stage one to being tuned... So, back to your question.... If you are wanting to make some serious power, i would definately go for the 3" exhaust. Every 1/4" after 2 1/4" is like an extra 13% increase in flow. With a 3" you should be able to get your back pressure to 0, assuming you have a nice wide opened muffler like an N1 or similar style. I wouldn't go with any off the shelf exhaust either unless it's a thermal turbo 3" catback... go to KTELLER.com and check out there stainless steel madrel bent pipes you can buy, then have a muffler with an 80mm inlet welded up to the exhaust and you got yourself a true mandrel bent custom 3" exhaust... or just have a local muffler shop do it, as long as it's mandrel with as least amount of bends as possible... You can always go bigger than 3" too, but then noize becomes a large deciding factor. RLZ or Endyn is who i would reccomend to speak to about your head. Head flow, and both manifolds are in my opinion the most important part about your build.... Also don't forget to pick out the Throttle body before having your intake manifold made, so that way you can have it port matched...

what else?

 

And about the spark plugs.... If you are using 12.5:1 compression pistons... (which i'm assuming you'll use considering you want a streetable car) . Definately go with the 2668 NGK Iridium Spark Plugs... any more questions, let me know

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by doood &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">check out the all motor forum at http://www.k20a.org lots of guys over there making some serious power.</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by team1320_k24eg6 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> </TD></TR></TABLE>this guy has a nice motor too correct

300whp is almost becoming a more often then not build for the k series now. And i mean come on if you dont get 300, 270-280 is still going to be silly sick nasty tire shredding fast.

 

I have a k20a type r swap... here's what you need

SSR/DTR, BurnsStainless, SMSP or HyTech header
a nice 2.5" to 3" transition
3" exhaust (I have Kteller good stuff)
RBC IM portmatched to 70mm TB (or custom IM - IPS or HyTech)
Cams - IPS, HyTech, Rcrew, Brian Crower, Skunk2
velocity stack with custom length intake
11.5-12.5 CR ratio
upgrade injectors (RDX or 440's+)
K-pro

if you want to rev high (ie 9k) & run a k24 block look into destroking it. make sure your header is custom made to the specs of your motor

hell my 227whp/166tq stock block (stock ITR cams) is ******' fast cams going in soon tho

 

ok, well im a fan of bc cams and i like the stage 2's they offer for NA, so i think we will go with those and the spring kit that goes with it. Kpro is ordered, again i run hondata on my vehicle so i am a fan of hondata as well.

still looking over headers and intake mani's. he has an aem v2 intake now which should be fine, i dont see it being any different than any other intake really.

and do you reccomen those plugs as well with stock bottom end? we will be running stock bottom end for now.

 

and i looked at the rbc manifold, is that like an oem honda mani or what? what is rbc? and is that a better choice than an str manifold? if not going the custom route obviously... or would a 70mm str tb with str mani be just as good?
for the price im finding the, rbc seems like a good cheap alternative but there is abig price difference so im curious as to why..

 

1st - go with a quality velocity stack either PrototypeRacing (email shawn hillier kswapinfo@yahoo.com) or BPI velocity stack. that combined with custom length 3" piping will yeild higher gains than aem v2 which a.) places filter back near header & b.) cannot use with RBC IM
RBC = euro accourd type R same exact IM as RRB
RRB = '06 civic si
PRC = jdm ITR/CTR
PRB = 02-04 rsx-s/euro CTR

contact BERT-O to get RBC IM for $165 shipped - you will need a karcepts adapter plate ($100) as well. RBC has an angled neck so if you get an aftermarket intake it needs to be for a '06+ si civic

PRC & PRB look very similar PRC/PRB on left RBC on right


if you get cams you will need to upgrade injectors - period... don't know anything about plugs but OE works pretty damn good

I know I am having throttle response & idle issues with my BDL 70mm TB... so yeah try str's don't know anything about there IM either - do you have a link for STR IM???

if you have more questions try searching k20a.org too for answers

 

hahahaha supposedly str is bdl - don't know about any intake manifold tho

BTW RBC is good for up to 20whp above PRC/PRB IMs

 

only link i could find for the str mani. their site is down right now and i cant seem to get a price from anywhere for it

 

so this rbc mani is really that good? i would think it wouldnt be as good as a tiged sheet metal mani...

and yes, str used to be bdl but they broke away on their own.

 

It would much easier to start with a K24 block.

You are going to be pushing very close to 300 with a K24 Block, ~13:1cr, DTR/SSR header, RBC IM, Kpro and IPS K2's.

You do not need headwork on a Kseries to reach 300. They flow better than most worked B-series heads.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by liljdmhb &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">14:1 c/r pistons are way to high to run on a street car using pump gas... </TD></TR></TABLE>

Without VTC control, I would agree with you 100%. However, with Kpro and i-VTEC (ability to control cam phase and angle) you can effectively bleed off compression during high load/low RPM use while building it back up when you need it. With large cams and Kpro, ideal CR is in the 13:1-14:1 range.