ok i posted b4 but i cant find it... so i just put (wut looks to be a 96 from looking at the stamp on the head of the motor) H22A. B4 i had a H22A1 but that motor can rip...so i swaped my motor and everything looks fine vacume hoses, wiring, ect... but when i ran the injectors that came with the motor the car would run like **** it would idle at aroun 2000 rpm then drop[ when i gave it gas... i asked for help and some people here on honda tech told me i would maybe need a resistor box...

so i decided to just run my old injectors and fule rail since i never ran a resistor box then and the car ran fine... ok so everything is in my old injectors and fuel rail...

the car only starts after i hold the key on for about 5 seconds or so... then it idles at a steedy 1500rpm.... seems normal.. but when i give it gas or open the throttle... it seems to tach out at 3000 rpm...

please help any is appreciated

 

ok so i looked at my spark plug wires... and chamber one (the shortes spark plug wire has a brooken end)...

so wut i did was while the car is running i removed the other spark plug wires one by one (wires 4, 3, 2) and the motor got weaker as i removed each one then got stronger when i put it back on... but when i removed spark plug wire 1 the motor remained the same...

so i am gonna replace that wire and spark plug tomorrow and hopefully that fixes my problem... if anybody has had this problem any comments appreciated

 

bump bump bump

 

no the exact problem i had, but my rpm's would stay at about 2000 when id get to a red light. then id tap the gas and the rpms would drop to almost normal. so my buddy pulled out my throttle and some threading came undone. once he threaded back in, the car was running normal again. took about 15 minutes.

 

Well i took out all my spark plugs... which i had just put in prior to installing the motor NGK's... and they were all covered in oil.... how is oil leaking into the spark plugs....?

 

Change ur plugs and wires, jeez.

And wire up a resistor box, it's not that hard.

Why do you need a H-T consult on changing plugs and wires?

EDIT:
As far as the oil, the oil seals are probably shot to ****, buy new rings too.

 

its not that i need help changing spark plug wires and plugs its just i want to get my car running properly... and yes i know i need to replace the wires and plugs... as for the resistor box i dont know where to find one or how to install it... so if you could point me in the right dirction i would be thankful for that

 

Right direction?

Right HERE OR HERE!!!

Jeez, man...

 

jeez man looks whos the smart one... good for you u know how to use google... anyways for everyone one else i am gonna do a compression test and let you know the results.. i was talking to a guy in napa and he said that if that much oil is going on the spark plugs that it could be bad rings or valves... which is a little **cked up man cuz i just bought the motor from ATTARCO in sac... i hear nothing but good things and here i just swap a motor straight from them and this is happening... keep u guys infromed

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TeamRiskEG6 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">jeez man looks whos the smart one... good for you u know how to use google... anyways for everyone one else i am gonna do a compression test and let you know the results.. i was talking to a guy in napa and he said that if that much oil is going on the spark plugs that it could be bad rings or valves... which is a little **cked up man cuz i just bought the motor from ATTARCO in sac... i hear nothing but good things and here i just swap a motor straight from them and this is happening... keep u guys infromed</TD></TR></TABLE>

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Syndacate &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
EDIT:
As far as the oil, the oil seals are probably shot to ****, buy new rings too.</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

well i completed the compression test and motor seems to be fine....

cyl 1.... 250
cyl 2.... 255
cyl 3.... 260
cyl 4.... 265

and i checked the engine code and it is throwing a code 6... just wondering if this is collant temp...?

seems like my motor is in safety mode not letting my pass 3000rpm

 

oh yeah and i replaced the valve cover for my old one since it had better seals... and looks like that fixed the oil problem

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TeamRiskEG6 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">oh yeah and i replaced the valve cover for my old one since it had better seals... and looks like that fixed the oil problem</TD></TR></TABLE>

6 ECT - water temperature sensor

EDIT:
Looked it up in helms, it's in the block - by the upper rad hose, on the side.


Modified by Syndacate at 2:08 AM 1/22/2007