Turbo d16y5
H-T Poker champion
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 5,921
Likes: 0
From: Columbus Ohio
Re: Turbo d16y5 (black6gen)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by black6gen »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Anyone ever boost an HX? If so is there anything different or special i should look out for?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Nope. You're the first person to ever think of even doing this. You are a pioneer, my friend.
Nope. You're the first person to ever think of even doing this. You are a pioneer, my friend.
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 4,407
Likes: 5
From: Locash
Re: Turbo d16y5 (Hatchy-Ownzjo0)
I have. Not an HX, but an EG with a Y5 mini-me, turboed, with an AEM EMS and cbr coils (coil-on-plug conversion). And no, nothing special.
Y5 is arguably the best D series motor to boost in a street car.
Y5 is arguably the best D series motor to boost in a street car.
Unceasing Measure
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 13,088
Likes: 6
From: Columbus Ohio
Re: Turbo d16y5 (Hatchy-Ownzjo0)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Hatchy-Ownzjo0 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Nope. You're the first person to ever think of even doing this. You are a pioneer, my friend.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Nice.
Nice.
Junior Member
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 731
Likes: 0
From: sufferhills, Fl, US
Re: Turbo d16y5 (suspendedHatch)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by suspendedHatch »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I have. Not an HX, but an EG with a Y5 mini-me, turboed, with an AEM EMS and cbr coils (coil-on-plug conversion). And no, nothing special.
Y5 is arguably the best D series motor to boost in a street car.</TD></TR></TABLE>
explain.
Y5 is arguably the best D series motor to boost in a street car.</TD></TR></TABLE>
explain.
Trending Topics
B*a*n*n*e*d
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 9,783
Likes: 47
From: Greenville, South Carolina
Re: Turbo d16y5 (Hatchy-Ownzjo0)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Hatchy-Ownzjo0 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Nope. You're the first person to ever think of even doing this. You are a pioneer, my friend.</TD></TR></TABLE>
x4
x4
B*a*n*n*e*d
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 9,783
Likes: 47
From: Greenville, South Carolina
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 1,644
Likes: 0
From: Florida
Junior Member
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 731
Likes: 0
From: sufferhills, Fl, US
Re: Turbo d16y5 (Bense)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Bense »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">http://bensebuilt.livejournal.com/2006/09/06/</TD></TR></TABLE>
Thank you.
Thank you.
B*a*n*n*e*d
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 9,783
Likes: 47
From: Greenville, South Carolina
Re: (black6gen)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by black6gen »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What about the 5wire to 4 wire O2 sesor conversion required for the running of a P28.</TD></TR></TABLE>
**** the o2 sensor. Tune with a wideband, then be done with it.
**** the o2 sensor. Tune with a wideband, then be done with it.
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 10,443
Likes: 2
From: Rochester, New York -> Santa Clara, CA
Re: (95ProjectEJ1)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 95ProjectEJ1 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">after seeing that link from Bense im thinking f*ck the DOHC and turbo my d16z6. 
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Damn straight, boosted SOHC is the way to roll
.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Bense »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
**** the o2 sensor. Tune with a wideband, then be done with it.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Well he's gonna need a wideband to tune the turbo with regardless, isn't he? I didn't know there were other ways to obtain accurate AF readings.
</TD></TR></TABLE>Damn straight, boosted SOHC is the way to roll
.<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Bense »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
**** the o2 sensor. Tune with a wideband, then be done with it.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Well he's gonna need a wideband to tune the turbo with regardless, isn't he? I didn't know there were other ways to obtain accurate AF readings.
Re: (Syndacate)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Syndacate »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Damn straight, boosted SOHC is the way to roll </TD></TR></TABLE>
I figure with 3500 I could rebuild and turbo my car if i do some reasearch. My motor has about 100k now so there is no way i would want to boost w/o building it up.
Damn straight, boosted SOHC is the way to roll
</TD></TR></TABLE>I figure with 3500 I could rebuild and turbo my car if i do some reasearch. My motor has about 100k now so there is no way i would want to boost w/o building it up.
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 10,443
Likes: 2
From: Rochester, New York -> Santa Clara, CA
Re: (95ProjectEJ1)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 95ProjectEJ1 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I figure with 3500 I could rebuild and turbo my car if i do some reasearch. My motor has about 100k now so there is no way i would want to boost w/o building it up. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Yeah there is, my engine has 105 on it (mint condition) - I'm thinking about boosting it. I've seen/heard about budget builds as low as 600 bucks total to run on stock internals. Run 190whp with a 12.3a/f street tuned (borrow somebody's wideband O2 for the tune, don't buy one), and you can save yourself a lot of money. 100k isn't bad if the engine is in good condition. It's all variable to how it has been driven.
I'm going to boost mine, either that or a bike, haven't decided yet (and don't have quite enough $$ to start yet).
I figure with 3500 I could rebuild and turbo my car if i do some reasearch. My motor has about 100k now so there is no way i would want to boost w/o building it up.
</TD></TR></TABLE>Yeah there is, my engine has 105 on it (mint condition) - I'm thinking about boosting it. I've seen/heard about budget builds as low as 600 bucks total to run on stock internals. Run 190whp with a 12.3a/f street tuned (borrow somebody's wideband O2 for the tune, don't buy one), and you can save yourself a lot of money. 100k isn't bad if the engine is in good condition. It's all variable to how it has been driven.
I'm going to boost mine, either that or a bike, haven't decided yet (and don't have quite enough $$ to start yet).
Re: (Syndacate)
I move out of my place next week and i will be rent free for about 4-8 months. (750 savings a month). So with the extra money and my tax return of a lil over 1k i am going to start looking for the parts i need. I bought the motor around 75k and it has been driven pretty melow. Its a single cam so i dont feel the need to hit vtec every gear like i did when i had my b18c. I know the #2 plug is stuck and i need to take that out. Other than that it drives just fine. Replace the temperature switch and everything is good.
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 10,443
Likes: 2
From: Rochester, New York -> Santa Clara, CA
Re: (95ProjectEJ1)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 95ProjectEJ1 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I move out of my place next week and i will be rent free for about 4-8 months. (750 savings a month). So with the extra money and my tax return of a lil over 1k i am going to start looking for the parts i need. I bought the motor around 75k and it has been driven pretty melow. Its a single cam so i dont feel the need to hit vtec every gear like i did when i had my b18c. I know the #2 plug is stuck and i need to take that out. Other than that it drives just fine. Replace the temperature switch and everything is good. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Yeah dude, as long as it's tuned and you're not looking at ridiculous whp (180-200whp is a wide agreed upon safety for a D-series's stock internals' threshold).
EDIT:
Lemme rephrase, you might as well pull the head and get that damn spark plug out - then at the same time prep it for boost by changing the headgasket, water pump, timing belt, and tensioner.
Yeah dude, as long as it's tuned and you're not looking at ridiculous whp (180-200whp is a wide agreed upon safety for a D-series's stock internals' threshold).
EDIT:
Lemme rephrase, you might as well pull the head and get that damn spark plug out - then at the same time prep it for boost by changing the headgasket, water pump, timing belt, and tensioner.
B*a*n*n*e*d
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 9,783
Likes: 47
From: Greenville, South Carolina
Re: (Syndacate)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Syndacate »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Well he's gonna need a wideband to tune the turbo with regardless, isn't he? I didn't know there were other ways to obtain accurate AF readings.</TD></TR></TABLE>
The tuner will tune with a wideband, and then plug it with a dead sensor and disable the o2 sensor in whatever program he's tuning with.
The tuner will tune with a wideband, and then plug it with a dead sensor and disable the o2 sensor in whatever program he's tuning with.
Re: (Syndacate)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Syndacate »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Lemme rephrase, you might as well pull the head and get that damn spark plug out - then at the same time prep it for boost by changing the headgasket, water pump, timing belt, and tensioner.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Would it also be smart to maybe upgrade the valve springs and retainers? I was thinking about buying a d16z6 long block and having the shop build it up while i keep my car. I would love to build this myself, but i lack the knowledge. I would be definitely ok with 180-200 whp since you lose a good percentage of your hp through the drivetrain correct?
Lemme rephrase, you might as well pull the head and get that damn spark plug out - then at the same time prep it for boost by changing the headgasket, water pump, timing belt, and tensioner.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Would it also be smart to maybe upgrade the valve springs and retainers? I was thinking about buying a d16z6 long block and having the shop build it up while i keep my car. I would love to build this myself, but i lack the knowledge. I would be definitely ok with 180-200 whp since you lose a good percentage of your hp through the drivetrain correct?
Junior Member
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 731
Likes: 0
From: sufferhills, Fl, US
Re: (95ProjectEJ1)
stock head is supposedly good for 400hp. And you wouldnt need a shop if you have a z6 swapped in and you slap on a turbo kit or make a homemade turbo kit and you can install that. If not you can take it to a shop but it doesnt need 'building'. You SHOULD replace some worn parts to be safe and since its pulled. But stock d16s are good for UNDER 240whp. You said deffinatly ok with 180-200 whp since you loose blah blah.. WHP is power to the wheels, hence the W. the engine is good for UNDER 240 WHEELhp. Tuned of course.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 95ProjectEJ1 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Would it also be smart to maybe upgrade the valve springs and retainers? I was thinking about buying a d16z6 long block and having the shop build it up while i keep my car. I would love to build this myself, but i lack the knowledge. I would be definitely ok with 180-200 whp since you lose a good percentage of your hp through the drivetrain correct? </TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 95ProjectEJ1 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Would it also be smart to maybe upgrade the valve springs and retainers? I was thinking about buying a d16z6 long block and having the shop build it up while i keep my car. I would love to build this myself, but i lack the knowledge. I would be definitely ok with 180-200 whp since you lose a good percentage of your hp through the drivetrain correct? </TD></TR></TABLE>
Re: (platinumx6)
Understood, the power you put to the crank is more than the power you put to your wheels correct? hp > whp right? So 240whp would mean that at the most hp you would want to make is about 250-260 safely on stock head and internals?
Re: (platinumx6)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by platinumx6 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">at the crank yes. But dyno's measure whp right...
btw, 400hp would be A LOT easier with a built head as well</TD></TR></TABLE>
I will have about 3500 to spend on a build. My motor has 100k and i would like to have 225whp on a DD. I just want the motor to be reliable. I dont need too much hp, just enough to have fun in and mess with a few people here and there
btw, 400hp would be A LOT easier with a built head as well</TD></TR></TABLE>
I will have about 3500 to spend on a build. My motor has 100k and i would like to have 225whp on a DD. I just want the motor to be reliable. I dont need too much hp, just enough to have fun in and mess with a few people here and there