Went to go start my h22 (jdm) accord this morning and it just cranks and cranks. Today has been the first day that it has been below 35 degrees and so I searched for cold temp start problems. Someone said they had this problem and replaced the Ignitor (ignition module). I also searched and found that the f22 ignitor works in the h22 Dizzy. I happened to have a spare from my old motor so I pulled the h22 ignitor out and put the f22 in. They looked different but everything lined up. Well, when I turn the key, it still just cranks and cranks. I'm wondering if it's becuase it is the ignitor is the wrong one or if it's the coil. My old ignitor worked until I pulled out my motor so I'm pretty sure it would still work. I do have the internal coil BTW. I'm confused because all the online parts places have different diagrams of the ignitor. Some of them look like the f22 one and some look like the one that I pulled out of my h22. Also, when I took off the cap, there was reddish/brown dust all in it. It almost looks like rust buy there is no evidence of water. Any feedback would be appreciated so I won't buy the wrong part tomorrow. Thanks for the fast replies in advanced!

Keith

 

bump... I know it's something electrical because i can smell fuel after cranking it. I don't really want to buy an entire distributor but would like to replace the igniter if that's what it is or the coil if that's what it is. Let me know what you guys think.

 

check to see if you hear the fuel pump prime. .the PGMFI main relay can stick when the get in extreme temps either hot or cold.

edit: check your fueses

 

wow this is like the 4th thread on this same problem (including one I made). All is related with cold weather. how gay ill let you know if i get mine started. I think im just gunna wait for warmer weather and see what is does.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by prelittlelude &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">check to see if you hear the fuel pump prime. .the PGMFI main relay can stick when the get in extreme temps either hot or cold.

edit: check your fueses</TD></TR></TABLE>

I'll check my fuses tomorrow. I was out of town for the weekend. I might end up buying an entire distributor to save time in trouble shooting.

 

let me know if you figure it out cause im also having the same problem, but what it takes for me to start it is accelerate while cranking it and hold the rpms up to about 2k till it warms up alittle.

 

i had the same problem with my 92 prelude si either when it was too cold or too hot it wouldnt start i would have to wait for like 20 mins till it would start so i thought it was either my main relay or fuel pump relay so i changed my main relay and it never happened again

 

Well, if you smell fuel the ecu and fuel pump are getting power. Does it have spark? If so then maybe the mixture is way off? Try resetting the ecu maybe. If you think it's flooded you can "hotwire" just the starter (with the ignition off) to pump air only through the engine. If there is no spark, then the crank sensors in the distributor could be the problem.

 

Okay, It is getting spark and fuel. I'll try resetting the ecu. I hooked up my mutimeter to the distributor wires and all seemed to be fine. I 've already replaced my main relay when this happened before a few years ago. I'm stumped currently.

 

So you have fuel, spark and what about compression?

 

that's next on the list

 

Ok, check compression and all is good. Rechecked spark when it was freakin cold yesturday and it is very weak. Because I'm selling my car soon, I ordered a whole new distributor with igniter and coil just to be done with it. The JDM distributors are aparently pretty hard to find. I ordered one and they sent me the wrong one. All I could find was the external coil ones and the JDM is the TD-60 which is internal coil. I finally was able to find one through a local parts store after 2 Honda dealers told me no one makes them Well, I know that buying the whole distributor will fix the problem becuase it's either the ignitor or coil or both and I don't have time to troubleshoot both and return parts and all that crap. BTW, I got a deal on it $250 for everything brand new.