oil loss
okay i drive a 95 accord ex 5spd with 160k miles.. its been 1000 miles since my oil change and i'm low 2 quarts.... i use pennzoil 5w30 conventional... i don'yt know where all this oil is going because.. i don't see any oil leaks on the ground...... my valve cover has leaks but it doesn't drip down onto the heads or onto the block.. i don't know if its the vtec that i've hit a couple times a day that eat it all up.. i don't know if its burning it cuz my car doesn't smoke at all..
i do see like a lil fluid on my tranny between the engine and the tranny theres if u wipe ur hand u feel the fluid but its not droppin on the ground.. is that the rear main seal?
thanks let me know...
i do see like a lil fluid on my tranny between the engine and the tranny theres if u wipe ur hand u feel the fluid but its not droppin on the ground.. is that the rear main seal?
thanks let me know...
i have a very similar problem except more severe.
99 accord sedan 2.3L I4 5spd
about 140k miles
i'll be down 2 quarts in half that distance, i usually top off (about a quart) every couple hundred miles.
no oil puddling under my car, but i do get some smoke at high rpm's (vtec).
i recently replaced the pcv valve and installed a catch can. didn't help.
suggestions?
99 accord sedan 2.3L I4 5spd
about 140k miles
i'll be down 2 quarts in half that distance, i usually top off (about a quart) every couple hundred miles.
no oil puddling under my car, but i do get some smoke at high rpm's (vtec).
i recently replaced the pcv valve and installed a catch can. didn't help.
suggestions?
check your coolant for oil and do a compression and leak down test ifpossible to try to narrow down the problem. you guys all said you dont see any smoke in the exhaust which usually means your not burnign up all that oil, but i dont know, 2 quarts between changes is ALOT of oil, it has to be going somewhere. and we're goign to find it, or not, i dont know...
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by soon2bdropped »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i take pcv off and shake it i can hear it moving.. and the springs..
what does the pcv valve do with the motor?</TD></TR></TABLE>
it vents excess crankcase pressure back into the intake. pressure is created in the crankcase by air leaking out of the combustion chamber pass the rings and into the crankcase, that air is called 'blow by'
what does the pcv valve do with the motor?</TD></TR></TABLE>
it vents excess crankcase pressure back into the intake. pressure is created in the crankcase by air leaking out of the combustion chamber pass the rings and into the crankcase, that air is called 'blow by'
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by soon2bdropped »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">so how does that make oil leak? or lost of oil? will it make a car smoke blue on cold start up(friend's car with bad pcv valve..)</TD></TR></TABLE>
well, think about it. if the PCV valve sint venting the pressur eint he crankcase it has to go somewhere, it will force itself out through the seals along with the oil.
well, think about it. if the PCV valve sint venting the pressur eint he crankcase it has to go somewhere, it will force itself out through the seals along with the oil.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by soon2bdropped »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">so how does that make oil leak? or lost of oil? will it make a car smoke blue on cold start up(friend's car with bad pcv valve..)</TD></TR></TABLE>
oil can get past the pcv valve (oil blow by) and could coat the intake manifold with oil film, which is not exactly healthy for the motor.
new pcv valve and catch can will remedy this. here's the diy catch can i made:
http://www.caraudio.com/forum/...nt=52
based upon this (from the sticky) :
http://www.acura-tsx.com/forum...pp=25
ideally it would be after the pcv valve, but both ways works.
mine catches just over 1oz. per hundred miles. i have no idea where the rest of the quart is going
oil can get past the pcv valve (oil blow by) and could coat the intake manifold with oil film, which is not exactly healthy for the motor.
new pcv valve and catch can will remedy this. here's the diy catch can i made:
http://www.caraudio.com/forum/...nt=52
based upon this (from the sticky) :
http://www.acura-tsx.com/forum...pp=25
ideally it would be after the pcv valve, but both ways works.
mine catches just over 1oz. per hundred miles. i have no idea where the rest of the quart is going
pcv valve is brand new..
okay well today i check the dipset it had no freaking oil on dipset.. i'm like wtf than i start it up and shut it down.. still no oil.. i'm like wtf.. i went and added 1 quart of 5w30 and started it up.. ran it for like 10 secs. shut it down and my oil level was good... it was right on the 2 holes.. what the expletive.. okay now i think my rear main seal is where its leaking at.. i put the car on a lift.. and inbetween the tranny and engine u see like droplets of oil.. dark oil.. looks like black engine oil that was overdue for oil change thats how black it is.. so after 2k miles of oil change i lost a quart... i need help really. if it was the rear main seal wouldn't i see huge puddle. are their any seals on the timing belt side.. i think whats happen is that oil is drippin from the rear main seal.. and since theres wind.. its splashin it all under the car because that air is wet with oil. even the timing belt side...what are some seals on the timing belt side.. might replace them..
okay well today i check the dipset it had no freaking oil on dipset.. i'm like wtf than i start it up and shut it down.. still no oil.. i'm like wtf.. i went and added 1 quart of 5w30 and started it up.. ran it for like 10 secs. shut it down and my oil level was good... it was right on the 2 holes.. what the expletive.. okay now i think my rear main seal is where its leaking at.. i put the car on a lift.. and inbetween the tranny and engine u see like droplets of oil.. dark oil.. looks like black engine oil that was overdue for oil change thats how black it is.. so after 2k miles of oil change i lost a quart... i need help really. if it was the rear main seal wouldn't i see huge puddle. are their any seals on the timing belt side.. i think whats happen is that oil is drippin from the rear main seal.. and since theres wind.. its splashin it all under the car because that air is wet with oil. even the timing belt side...what are some seals on the timing belt side.. might replace them..
There's seals on both ends of the crankshaft. Also on the front ends of the camshaft & balance shafts.
Rear main (crankshaft) seal:
Leaks down inside the bellhousing & drips out a little hole.
Gotta take out tranny, clutch, & flywheel to replace that one.
Front main (crankshaft) seal:
Camshaft & balance shaft seals:
These are all in the timing cover; they drip down where you can't see; come out below the front crankshaft pulley.
These are sorta equivalent to doing a timing-belt job.
Oil pan gasket???
Get some degreaser & clean everything real good. Then you have a better chance of seeing where it's really leaking from.
Still, that's a lot of oil loss. It has to go SOMEWHERE, if you can't see it dripping on the ground. Maybe it only leaks when you're driving, so its all over the road & not on the garage floor.
Rear main (crankshaft) seal:
Leaks down inside the bellhousing & drips out a little hole.
Gotta take out tranny, clutch, & flywheel to replace that one.
Front main (crankshaft) seal:
Camshaft & balance shaft seals:
These are all in the timing cover; they drip down where you can't see; come out below the front crankshaft pulley.
These are sorta equivalent to doing a timing-belt job.
Oil pan gasket???
Get some degreaser & clean everything real good. Then you have a better chance of seeing where it's really leaking from.
Still, that's a lot of oil loss. It has to go SOMEWHERE, if you can't see it dripping on the ground. Maybe it only leaks when you're driving, so its all over the road & not on the garage floor.
i have a question too. do they replace those seals when they do the timing belt. i think i might be leaking oil as well, but i haven't really looked more into it. but i need my t-belt to be changed.
ooomg yall are so funny, so lemme point this out to yaz, tighten up ur oil filter to the exact spec required, the easieast way is if u have a K&N oil filter cuz its got a one inch nut welded to the top(lookit pics) and a torque wrench and a 1"drive socket for the torque wrench,
its gotta be tightened to at LEAST 3/4 extra turns from where it just seals
..trust me on this i got triple proof
think about this: the rubber seal that touches up to the block, even when its only on barely tight, will not leak, its a good seal, however, under pressure it will leak, when ur haulin *** hittin vtec theres like 80psi in the can, normal drivin prolly50 idk, but more than the normal engine oil pressure.... alot, whatever, so it will leak when the engine is running, its not gonna smoke or anything cuz its leaking from the filter seal (if it were burning oil in the motor ud def. smell it, def. see it and def. have a clogged cat and gummed up spark plugs)
also, on my accord, i did my own oil change and noticed a few drop in the drive way, very few drops, to check out what it was i rolled the car back in neutral w/o starting it to see if it was leaking, nothing (cuz no pressure on seal) but when i let it idle it would drip a few, so i tighten the filter, whadda ya know, problem solved
also also, my aunt had a fode F1fiddy that leaked oil like a **** like yall are, no smoke, no codes, no puddles, they took it in to find out wtf, midas didnt tighten the damn oil filter all the way!!!!
cliffnotes: check ur sparkplugs!, look at the oil pan plug, its supposed to be at 33ft/lbs, tighten up the filter
its gotta be tightened to at LEAST 3/4 extra turns from where it just seals
..trust me on this i got triple proof
think about this: the rubber seal that touches up to the block, even when its only on barely tight, will not leak, its a good seal, however, under pressure it will leak, when ur haulin *** hittin vtec theres like 80psi in the can, normal drivin prolly50 idk, but more than the normal engine oil pressure.... alot, whatever, so it will leak when the engine is running, its not gonna smoke or anything cuz its leaking from the filter seal (if it were burning oil in the motor ud def. smell it, def. see it and def. have a clogged cat and gummed up spark plugs)
also, on my accord, i did my own oil change and noticed a few drop in the drive way, very few drops, to check out what it was i rolled the car back in neutral w/o starting it to see if it was leaking, nothing (cuz no pressure on seal) but when i let it idle it would drip a few, so i tighten the filter, whadda ya know, problem solved
also also, my aunt had a fode F1fiddy that leaked oil like a **** like yall are, no smoke, no codes, no puddles, they took it in to find out wtf, midas didnt tighten the damn oil filter all the way!!!!
cliffnotes: check ur sparkplugs!, look at the oil pan plug, its supposed to be at 33ft/lbs, tighten up the filter
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 361accord »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ooomg yall are so funny, so lemme point this out to yaz, tighten up ur oil filter to the exact spec required, the easieast way is if u have a K&N oil filter cuz its got a one inch nut welded to the top(lookit pics) and a torque wrench and a 1"drive socket for the torque wrench,
its gotta be tightened to at LEAST 3/4 extra turns from where it just seals
..trust me on this i got triple proof
think about this: the rubber seal that touches up to the block, even when its only on barely tight, will not leak, its a good seal, however, under pressure it will leak, when ur haulin *** hittin vtec theres like 80psi in the can, normal drivin prolly50 idk, but more than the normal engine oil pressure.... alot, whatever, so it will leak when the engine is running, its not gonna smoke or anything cuz its leaking from the filter seal (if it were burning oil in the motor ud def. smell it, def. see it and def. have a clogged cat and gummed up spark plugs)
also, on my accord, i did my own oil change and noticed a few drop in the drive way, very few drops, to check out what it was i rolled the car back in neutral w/o starting it to see if it was leaking, nothing (cuz no pressure on seal) but when i let it idle it would drip a few, so i tighten the filter, whadda ya know, problem solved
also also, my aunt had a fode F1fiddy that leaked oil like a **** like yall are, no smoke, no codes, no puddles, they took it in to find out wtf, midas didnt tighten the damn oil filter all the way!!!!
cliffnotes: check ur sparkplugs!, look at the oil pan plug, its supposed to be at 33ft/lbs, tighten up the filter</TD></TR></TABLE>
lyke OMG, I TOTALLY ALREADY DID.
but i was just asking if they change the seals when they do a t-belt, cus i heard there supposed to
but its still good advice to some i guess.
its gotta be tightened to at LEAST 3/4 extra turns from where it just seals
..trust me on this i got triple proof
think about this: the rubber seal that touches up to the block, even when its only on barely tight, will not leak, its a good seal, however, under pressure it will leak, when ur haulin *** hittin vtec theres like 80psi in the can, normal drivin prolly50 idk, but more than the normal engine oil pressure.... alot, whatever, so it will leak when the engine is running, its not gonna smoke or anything cuz its leaking from the filter seal (if it were burning oil in the motor ud def. smell it, def. see it and def. have a clogged cat and gummed up spark plugs)
also, on my accord, i did my own oil change and noticed a few drop in the drive way, very few drops, to check out what it was i rolled the car back in neutral w/o starting it to see if it was leaking, nothing (cuz no pressure on seal) but when i let it idle it would drip a few, so i tighten the filter, whadda ya know, problem solved
also also, my aunt had a fode F1fiddy that leaked oil like a **** like yall are, no smoke, no codes, no puddles, they took it in to find out wtf, midas didnt tighten the damn oil filter all the way!!!!
cliffnotes: check ur sparkplugs!, look at the oil pan plug, its supposed to be at 33ft/lbs, tighten up the filter</TD></TR></TABLE>
lyke OMG, I TOTALLY ALREADY DID.
but i was just asking if they change the seals when they do a t-belt, cus i heard there supposed to
but its still good advice to some i guess.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sony224422 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i have a question too. do they replace those seals when they do the timing belt. i think i might be leaking oil as well, but i haven't really looked more into it. but i need my t-belt to be changed.</TD></TR></TABLE>No they don't. Not always, not automatically.
Many dealers & mechanics will suggest replacing those seals, but it's still not a mandatory thing. They gotta do what the car owner says, what they'll pay for. It's certainly possible to replace the timing belt without replacing those seals.
If you want them to do it, tell them. Along with a timing belt job, that makes tons of sense to do those seals at the same time.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by soon2bdropped »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">jim do u have AIM i want to tlak to u more about this............</TD></TR></TABLE>No, but you can PM me here. I kinda visit here for a few minutes at a time when I feel like it; I'm not always at the computer.
But maybe your questions will help other people who read the thread...
Many dealers & mechanics will suggest replacing those seals, but it's still not a mandatory thing. They gotta do what the car owner says, what they'll pay for. It's certainly possible to replace the timing belt without replacing those seals.
If you want them to do it, tell them. Along with a timing belt job, that makes tons of sense to do those seals at the same time.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by soon2bdropped »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">jim do u have AIM i want to tlak to u more about this............</TD></TR></TABLE>No, but you can PM me here. I kinda visit here for a few minutes at a time when I feel like it; I'm not always at the computer.
But maybe your questions will help other people who read the thread...
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sony224422 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">thanks, i figured it would. but is there a possibility that oil could be leaking from any of those seals? ( im not even sure what seals are there)</TD></TR></TABLE>Sure it's possible. The leak will be visible to the mechanic when he changes the timing cover.
Any shaft that comes out from the engine has a seal. That means crankshaft (both ends), camshaft, & the 2 balance shafts.
Any shaft that comes out from the engine has a seal. That means crankshaft (both ends), camshaft, & the 2 balance shafts.
holy expletive, yeah you should work on that man. You're supposed to only go to 90,000 so you're running on luck... I would be freaking out if I drove on that.
Borrow money or something, cause otherwise you're going to be short a lot more money when you have to buy a new car.
Borrow money or something, cause otherwise you're going to be short a lot more money when you have to buy a new car.
meh, as sad as it is, another f22 is like 200 bucks haha. plus i could get vtec haha. no really though, i think im going to get my dad to help me out for now. but i think im going to have to spend like $1000, cus i need those seals replaced and stuff too.
before you drop 1k on that motor, have them do a leakdown test. If it's going past the rings then theres no sense spending that money on a worn out motor when you can get a low mileage replacement for $200


