I just want to know if I'm running the right cams?

-Jdm b18c-R block new rings bearings and ARP rod bolts
-ported Type R head with 5 angle job and welded quench pads (gave me 42.2cc before milling the head surface)
-ported type R manifold with 64mm over-bored type r TB
-Spoon header N1 4-2-1 one piece and 2 1/2" cat
-Holly 255 fuel pump to Talon balanced 450cc injectors
note: using a cometic 0.027" gasket and I milled head 0.003" so I have arround 11.3:1-11.4:1 comp/

- I'm in the process of putting the motor back together and I'm wondering what kind of number I should get out of this motor with my Sk2 stage 1 cams? should I go bigger cams, I have SK2 dual springs and ti reatainers already)

Pat


Modified by psegs80 at 9:46 PM 1/16/2007


Modified by psegs80 at 9:54 PM 1/16/2007

 

high 170? now?

with skunk 2 ? around 190 ?

 

I have the Sk2 normal stage 1 already...so you think 190 because I would be happy with 190-205whp

Do you think my motor would like and take Pro Series Stage 1 or Buddy Club spec 4?

 

Off topic...but were you driving up King Edward yesterday in the huge snow storm? Because I saw a PW in a mad snow storm and I just don't see many R's around here in Ottawa, especially in a snow storm

 

I was in that storm but in my EF with a D15b vtec LOL

My Type R is in a 2000 EM1 civic coupe that I mainly take to just tracks (touring not 1/4mile)

nice to see someone from the area

Pat

 

I would still like to know if Pro series stage 1 or Buddy club spec 4 would need more comp then what I have?

I have ATS 3-4-5th gears which will allow me to use the power ban to it's max...I would love to peak around 8500rpm and make good power up to 8800rpm so I can set my limiter at 9100rpm

 

Guessing games suck.

Stock internals with a very free flowing intake and exhaust can get 189whp. I did it.
Cams and the other small stuff you listed better get you over 190 with ease.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by psegs80 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I have the Sk2 normal stage 1 already...so you think 190 because I would be happy with 190-205whp

Do you think my motor would like and take Pro Series Stage 1 or Buddy Club spec 4?</TD></TR></TABLE>

do you like a fat girl with fat fingers or a fat girl with fat toes better?

 

Funny...althought I don't 100% get it!

All over the web and tuning magazine, every one says 1.58R\S b-series love alot of overlap because the piston doesn't have alot of dwell time at TDC...but on the other hand, they say if you don't have enough compression that you can loose some healthy charge back in the intake port????

Pat

 

where is the tuning part for all this stuff?....that plays a big role in your final # for hp and tq.

 

Skunk 2 pro 2's. I have heard that with good tuning they can even be a fairly well idling cams, and from graphs I've seen have a nice linear power band. Besides the fact they make great power.

 

Totaly agree with the tuning part, Michael from PSI is my tuner and he played a role in developing Crome.

Skunk 2 pro 2+ look very crazy. I would be scared that my motor wouldn't like them and that I would be over-caming it?

Pat

 

Research the pro 2's and I think you might be suprised by what you see. I do not think they are to big at all.

 

They have crazy lift just like the normal stage 3 (12.8,12.01) and almost the same duration. The stage 3 I know work best with 12.0:1 comp and up and need a valve lash every 7000miles or so. Do the pro2+ have the same needs?

Pat

 

But, and someone please correct me if I'm wrong. I believe that the low lift lobes are comparable to a much lesser cam and give the ability for a plenty streetable ride.

 

I would vote Pro-2's, however they are sold out and have been on backorder for quite some time now. I have been running Pro2's in my motor for the last 8 months and although they aren't the best cam for peak power, they pack a huge punch from 4000-7000.

Getting them to idle is a tedious process, but achievable. Mine warmup and idle very smooth, warm idle at 850 just like stock.

You can make great power from the original stage 2's, but don't expect much down low, they have very mild primaries.

 

And their you go.

 

Thanks for the info...because of my ATS gears with a FD of 4.40:1, I want a cam that is strong from 7000-9000 cause with my gearing that's where I will be! I don't mind if the idle is a little rough but I want my 11.3:1comp motor to take a cam that will not die out at 8000rpm!

Pat

 

to give you an idea

i have a 98 jdm itr motor

brian crower stage 2 cams
rocket motor sports springs and retainers
rev flat face valves
jg edelbrock header "not modified "
stock block

stock every thing else

pos intake

201 whp

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by wunPOINTeight &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">to give you an idea

i have a 98 jdm itr motor

brian crower stage 2 cams
rocket motor sports springs and retainers
rev flat face valves
jg edelbrock header "not modified "
stock block

stock every thing else

pos intake

201 whp </TD></TR></TABLE>


Question : Tuned ?

 

answer: yes, crome, base map

 

201whp, I like that. Question: what kind of dyno?

I did a bit of research myself and called Buddy Club and Skunk 2...So now it's between BC spec 4 or SK2 Pro 1+

Althought I will only have 11.3:1-11.4:1, The bowl being reshaped and unshrouded chambers + the 5 angle valve seats job will help + I will get an anti reversion cut on my intake valves. (should take the overlap well)

Pat

 

Its a tossup.

Although, I'd personally go for a set of M22X's.

Customers car from last year:

 

Wow I like it! What are 2.0L DTR Header?

How long has Rocket motorsports been arround...

Pat

 

M22 or M22X?