Wish someone made something like this for a 96-98 Front bumper.

However, this is a very clean install of brake ducks on a 92-95 Civic.

http://www.twin-cam.net/bone/brakeducts/

 

or a jdm dc2 bumper

 

You're 50% done. You need place the hose within the backing plate for the air to pressurize against the rotor for effective cooling. Under your current design little to no air will be hitting the brake rotor over speeds of 60 mph. Once the air exits from the location in the picture the air will bend 45% coming out of ducting exit point. For more information do some research on fuild dynamics and aerodynamic effects of airflow at a given rate of speed. I hope this helps.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Littleton &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You're 50% done. You need place the hose within the backing plate for the air to pressurize against the rotor for effective cooling. Under your current design little to no air will be hitting the brake rotor over speeds of 60 mph. Once the air exits from the location in the picture the air will bend 45% coming out of ducting exit point. For more information do some research on fuild dynamics and aerodynamic effects of airflow at a given rate of speed. I hope this helps.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I'd go even further than that and make sure that the backing plate forces air to go to the center of the rotor and through the vanes to cool the rotor evenly. If you only cool one side of the rotor you can produce un-even pad wear from the temp difference.

 

I agree, this is not a final design. There is still some work to be done and some testing to see what the advantages and effects of this set up are. Don't forget guys, half of the fun of custom building something is the testing phase. :D

I'll have to bring it up to Bone and see if there's an easy way to route some air to the veins of the rotors. Any body have any idea's or see anything that would make it easy to route some air into the veins of the rotor's?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Jrm_41 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Any body have any idea's or see anything that would make it easy to route some air into the veins of the rotor's?</TD></TR></TABLE>

something like this (these are mustang specific, but something like it could be made for civic hubs)

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nonsense &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

something like this (these are mustang specific, but something like it could be made for civic hubs) </TD></TR></TABLE>

it is really hard to make something like that of the double wishbone suspension on most honda's, which is why it isn't done.

 

Not only double wishbone, buat also has drive axle going through the front wheel!

 

only use flexible tubing where you need to allow the ducting to move. If its stationary, use fixed bent tubing. Turbulance will prevent enough air from getting to the rotors.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by slammed_93_hatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

it is really hard to make something like that of the double wishbone suspension on most honda's, which is why it isn't done. </TD></TR></TABLE>

It isn't? I'm not saying it's easy, but I've seen it done on more than one occasion.

http://www.sandmracing.com/m_b05_ducts.html

 

check out the big brain on brad

 

My first post on Honda-Tech after lurking for years. User name "Bone" was taken of course.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MattD@Stoptech &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'd go even further than that and make sure that the backing plate forces air to go to the center of the rotor and through the vanes to cool the rotor evenly. If you only cool one side of the rotor you can produce un-even pad wear from the temp difference.</TD></TR></TABLE>

That's a good point and I didn't even think about un-even pad wear. I plan on eventually making some spindle ducts to get air into the rotor, like the Integra's ducts. There's just so little room to work with, especially with 15" wheels. It'll just require some more time and effort.

We'll see if this setup produces any results in February.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nonsense &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

It isn't? I'm not saying it's easy, but I've seen it done on more than one occasion.

http://www.sandmracing.com/m_b05_ducts.html






</TD></TR></TABLE>
very nice

 

If I decide not to be as ambitious as nonsense, how effective do you think the first method in this post is?



I realize it wouldn't be as effective...

 

probably puffing some air at the rotor, who knows. Maybe nothing is getting at it due to the turbulance underneat the car at that area. Honestly, you really have to put some decent effort into brake ducts to expect some benefit. If you havent seen, there are some cars that come OEM with a huge deflector on the control arm to just scoop the air passing under the car toward the brakes. Cool from an OEM standpoint, but not ideal.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by granracing &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If I decide not to be as ambitious as nonsense, how effective do you think the first method in this post is?



I realize it wouldn't be as effective...</TD></TR></TABLE>

my setup is very similar but the tube extends further into the wheel closer to the brakes. It definatly makes a difference on the hot days at CMP.

 

This season I ended up using zip ties to attach the ducting to my calipers and along the radius arms. It made a really big difference during the second half of the season. Since then I have picked up a set of brackets that are going to do the same thing.

Brake ducting makes a really big difference, the closer you can get the ducting to the caliper and the center of the hub the better.

Z