Man, my friend and I were changing the cv axle on my car.. The cv axle was bad and the boot rip up.. Anyway I took suspension bolts off, then take the castle nut off.. I used the pickle fork and try to take the lower bolt knuckle off.. DAmn, it doesnt come off... My friend called his friend to borrow smaller size pickle fork.. Then went back to my house and started work on my car.. Then now what, it doesnt work.. I think I need a tool for U lower ball joint removable.. My car been in the garage for 3 days because most of my buddy dont wanna come help me.. They said outside is too cold and it is raining.. Give me a break!!!

HELp, HELP, Help!!! Should I get the U joint removable, or what is it?

 

Have you tried hammering the **** out of the lower control arm with tension on the system (jacked up from the bottom of the brake rotor)?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Stinkycheezmonky &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Have you tried hammering the **** out of the lower control arm with tension on the system (jacked up from the bottom of the brake rotor)?</TD></TR></TABLE>

I did and it doesnt even work...

 

that does the trick every time.
Put the castle nut back on loosely, jsut to protect the threads of the balljoint. Incase you get a little crazy with the hammer

edit: jsut saw your post, get a bigger hammer or bigger friends. Even in the great rust belt they always come off that way

 

Ball Joints are easy once you know how to do them


jack up the brake rotor, thread the castle nut 2-3 turns on the ball joint and smack the the little tab on the front of the lower control arm until it pops loose

make sure the castle nut is on, you don't wanna slip and hammer flat those threads on the ball joint

 

Yep, use a bigger hammer.

 

were did that video go with the guy using a ratchet handle to pop it apart?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by highroller54 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">were did that video go with the guy using a ratchet handle to pop it apart?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Show me the video?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by py &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Show me the video?</TD></TR></TABLE>

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=887859

you owe me

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by highroller54 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=887859

you owe me </TD></TR></TABLE>

DAng that crazy!!!

 

Jack it up and hammer the expletive out of it. If you still doesn't work step up to a bigger hammer like a sledge. If still doesn't work get a ball joint seperator but this prolly will pierce your ball joint which isn't good.

 

I watched the video, but its stupid question time: How do you remove the ball joint from the knuckle? I looked at the tool and it didn't make sense still..

 

I think putting the circlip back on the boot is infinitely harder than popping the ball joint loose.

Ed 341: Its pressed in.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by py &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I did and it doesnt even work...</TD></TR></TABLE>You need to use a 4lbs. hammer and don't hit it like a panzy. I swear I can't live without my 4lbs. ....

If it still doesn't budge, use the 1/2" Craftsman handle trick.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by highroller54 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=887859

you owe me </TD></TR></TABLE>

I usually just whack the **** out of it. But ^^^ technique ALWAYS works...

 

BFH!!! haha yeah like the others say, hammer it really hard to shock it loose i guess

 

Just get a ball-joint seperator.

I had to take my knuckles off about a week ago, and the tool specified in the Helm manual works like (surprise) it was made for the job. Easy-peazy Japanesey. Makes one hell of a pop when they come loose, too.

 

The Autozone type of ball joint separator works quite well, pickle forks just end up damaging the ball joints.

BTW, I bet I know why you're ruining CV joints 'py', because you're riding ultra mega stunna slizzamed!!!!111



That height will screw a lot of crap up.

 

I really prefer the craftsman ratchet method because it preserves the boot.
Pickle forks just suck, and I can't use them without destroying something.
An actual ball joint seperator would be nice, but why spend money when you don't have to?
Besides....if you break the ratchet a quick trip to Sears will remedy that.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by andyt &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">An actual ball joint seperator would be nice, but why spend money when you don't have to?
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Because having the right tool for the job = less work and fewer busted knuckles.

Seriously, if there's anything I've learned in the 15+ years I've been messing with cars, it's that having the right tools is a massive labor-saver.

That, and the factory maintenance schedule isn't the blatant rip-off it seems to be.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MK Ultra &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Because having the right tool for the job = less work and fewer busted knuckles.

</TD></TR></TABLE>

It takes me less time (and is less work) using the ratchet trick than it does with a seperator, it never fails, and it doesnt damage anything, so as far as I'm concerned it IS the right tool for the job.

 

Well, if it works for you, fine. Although I can't imagine anything being faster than the ball-joint seperator. Just a few turns of a ratchet and "pop," the sucker comes off. No problems, no technique to get right, just one easy tool and the ball joints come apart.

 

I have gone through exactly what you are talking about - never could hit the darn thing hard enough to pop a joint loose...

Then I read somewhere on H-T about using the 'small' pitman arm puller from Autozone etc ($15 or rent for free). It works like a champ on upper or lower ball joints. Just put nut on upside down and then put 2 or 3 small washers between nut and puller pin to prevent damaging nut.

 

I can help if you still don't have it off....this is Matt....used to have the black EK on CPRs. PM me if you need help.

 

that method works every time for me