i got 96 civic hx, i dont want to do a motor swap, it has the d16 in it, i was thinking of a bolt on turbo kit,

But all together i wanna Lower it, camber kit, and basically a full suspension, i want a bolt on turbo kit, should i get the head port and polished?


Also, if i got a a bolt on turbo kit ( no computer or anything) and injectors, would it what do u think the most boost i could get out of it?

 

5 speed?

 

Drop in a DOHC FTW Dont turbo the tired d16

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 95ProjectEJ1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Drop in a DOHC FTW Dont turbo the tired d16</TD></TR></TABLE>

probably the worst suggestion


You can build your own turbo kit and push more boost. The stock d16 blocks take very well to turbo applications

With bolt on kits you're looking at a high cost with usually an incomplete kit. Search our Forced Induction Marketplace for many parts and possibly already assembled kits.

As you also stated.. if you're planning for boost then a good suspension is key to a great performing car. It is an often overlooked supporting mod

 

agreed. Turbo D's are very nice if done right though. You can also piece your own turbo kit for around 1500. Depends on the parts that you buy.

 

b-serious is the only way to go. lol

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by gezzuzz &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">b-serious is the only way to go. lol</TD></TR></TABLE>

besides the fact that he said he doesn't wanna swap... going to b-series is a toss up.

figure most will go for the cheaper b16 swap.. i ask why? you'll have a starting investment of 2g's and still be stuck with crappy power and zero torque..

spend a little more on a gsr swap.. say $2500-2800 and you're still wanting more power.

go ls/vtec and you have a decent power range and high revability but then you're still above $2000 for something that is known to be unreliable at times.


why waste all that cash when you can spend less than 2g's on your engine that's already in there, make power that will keep up if not beat B-series, and have room for higher hp and cash to spend on supporting mods IE. (suspension)


Boost the D16

 

I'm confused.

Is it a D16Y8 or the stock VTEC-E D16Y5?

If it was the Y8, boost is a nice option. If it's a Y5 I wouldn't expletive with it, I hate VTEC-E. I'd swap it then boost it, or just swap it for a better motor & call it a day.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Syndacate &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'm confused.

Is it a D16Y8 or the stock VTEC-E D16Y5?

If it was the Y8, boost is a nice option. If it's a Y5 I wouldn't expletive with it, I hate VTEC-E. I'd swap it then boost it, or just swap it for a better motor & call it a day.</TD></TR></TABLE>

it's a 96 so y8 or y7

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MidwestSiR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

it's a 96 so y8 or y7</TD></TR></TABLE>

In the US there were 4 engines made from '96-'00 (6th gen) in accordance with Honda Civics.

- D16Y7 (DX, CX, LX, DX-V)
- D16Y8 (EX)(VTEC)
- D16Y5 (HX)(VTEC-E)
- B16a2 (Si)(VTEC)

So seeing as he has an HX.

And the stock motor of the HX is a VTEC-E D16Y5.

It is very possible (not to mention likely) that he has a D16Y5 in there.

'Tis why I was asking. One's worth upgrading, one is not.

 

boost that ****...n call it a day

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sohc dis &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">boost that ****...n call it a day</TD></TR></TABLE>

Depends on the motor.

Would you really want a boosted Y5? Or would you spend the extra 150 bucks for a Y8 short bock and run a turbo Y8 w/ VTEC?

 

you're right, HX's did come with y5's


do as syndacate said and swap to a y8 it's pretty straight forward

 

or you could just swap your head to a Y8, then you dont have to swap motors, just the head and ecu posibly otherwise it should be mostly plug and play, turboing the D is going to be your cheapest powergain, what ever you do, dont buy the eBay turbo kits, they are crap, it would be beter if you peiced together your own kit, just to to the FI section or visit turbod16.com or homemadeturbo.com for any questions about turboing your D

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Syndacate &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Would you really want a boosted Y5?</TD></TR></TABLE>


If it's already in the car, sure. Why not?

 

Low-boost Turbo HX's are the ****. If you drive like a sane person and don't tweak into boost every single gear, you maintain that 40-50mph, and still have the ability to have a relatively robust 180+whp on a good tune and stock internals.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by standbackimapro &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Also, if i got a a bolt on turbo kit ( no computer or anything) and injectors, would it what do u think the most boost i could get out of it?</TD></TR></TABLE>


Did anybody notice he said he wants to drop in a "bolt on" turbo kit...but does NOT want to screw with the computer (ecu)?

I wanted to let you know, that if you plan on purchasing and installing a turbo kit...fuel management is MANDATORY! On top of the injectors, you will need to purchase some type of fuel management program such as Hondata, Chrome, Neptune, AEM EMS, etc...

You will have to do some work to your ECU, as well as take the car to a tuner/dyno in order to have the air/fuel adjusted, and correctly program the ECU. There is NO way around this if you want your motor to last longer than an oil change.

Check out the forced induction forum, and read through as much of the sticked posts at the top as you can. I cannot stress enough how important knowledge is before you dive head first into something as critical as this.

I wish you luck, and please take my advice and learn as much as you can while you're saving money. After a few hours of reading, I promise that you will be able to personally answer any question that you may have regarding boost. For instance, the question you asked above about how much boost you can run. There are MANY factors that will determine what your motor is capable of. I'm not asking you to quit your job and study Forced Induction for the next couple months. All I ask is a few hours of your time at the MOST...to read through the links that I will post at the bottom of this post...and you'll thank me later. Enjoy....

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread/1024174


If you read ANYTHING....please read this...

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread/878169

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Syndacate &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'm confused.

Is it a D16Y8 or the stock VTEC-E D16Y5?

If it was the Y8, boost is a nice option. If it's a Y5 I wouldn't expletive with it, I hate VTEC-E. I'd swap it then boost it, or just swap it for a better motor & call it a day.</TD></TR></TABLE>

you <FONT SIZE="5">ALWAYS</FONT> speak lots about things you know little about.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Syndacate &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

In the US there were 4 engines made from '96-'00 (6th gen) in accordance with Honda Civics.

- D16Y7 (DX, CX, LX, DX-V)
- D16Y8 (EX)(VTEC)
- D16Y5 (HX)(VTEC-E)
- B16a2 (Si)(VTEC)

So seeing as he has an HX.

And the stock motor of the HX is a VTEC-E D16Y5.

It is very possible (not to mention likely) that he has a D16Y5 in there.

'Tis why I was asking. One's worth upgrading, one is not.


</TD></TR></TABLE>

d16b5 as well. If you know anything about VTEC-E you'd know about the d16b5. But then again, I guess that applies for lots of things that you babble about.

 

D16B5 is a VTEC-E CNG motor. It comes in the GX.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Bense &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

d16b5 as well. If you know anything about VTEC-E you'd know about the d16b5. But then again, I guess that applies for lots of things that you babble about.</TD></TR></TABLE>

BTW, while you're in here Mr. VTEC-E, do you actually have anything to contribute to the topic aside from bashing me?

Or are you just being worthless?

It's your area of expertise, so say something about it, I think VTEC-E ******* sucks, but that's your deal, so you'd think YOU say something about it, but no, only come to bash me. at you.

 

&lt;--- i turbo'd my y5..everithing is fine and is running great..long gears are nice too

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by krazyhmongboi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">&lt;--- i turbo'd my y5..everithing is fine and is running great..long gears are nice too </TD></TR></TABLE>

There's nothing wrong with it per-se.

Though you'd get a lot more power if it was a Y8 you were boosting (assuming stock internals on each).

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by standbackimapro &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i got 96 civic hx, i dont want to do a motor swap, it has the d16 in it, i was thinking of a bolt on turbo kit,

But all together i wanna Lower it, camber kit, and basically a full suspension, i want a bolt on turbo kit, should i get the head port and polished

Also, if i got a a bolt on turbo kit ( no computer or anything) and injectors, would it what do u think the most boost i could get out of it?</TD></TR></TABLE>

You WILL need a way to manage the extra fuel needed for your turbo application. You dont just slap turbo kits on cars with no fuel managment other than the stock ECU. You can get away with no fuel management other than a FMU and that **** that goes on your map sensor....god the name escapes me right now of what it is called....I never used it personally. But why would you want to go the ghetto route? ECU's arent exspensive. You will need a P28 and a OBD2A - OBD1 conversion harness...that isnt expsensive at all. You can get that for around 180-200 if you shop around.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Syndacate &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">BTW, while you're in here Mr. VTEC-E, do you actually have anything to contribute to the topic aside from bashing me?

Or are you just being worthless?

It's your area of expertise, so say something about it, I think VTEC-E ******* sucks, but that's your deal, so you'd think YOU say something about it, but no, only come to bash me. at you.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Again why do peopel post in threads they have NO clue about? You hate VTEC-E but have no expereince with it, yet tell him to swap it. Why...you have NO EXPEREINCE WITH IT!

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Eran &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Low-boost Turbo HX's are the ****. If you drive like a sane person and don't tweak into boost every single gear, you maintain that 40-50mph, and still have the ability to have a relatively robust 180+whp on a good tune and stock internals.</TD></TR></TABLE>

EXACTLY. I drive an HX and I was sick and tired of peopel telling me to do a B swap or head swap...blah blah blah. If you dont have high power goals, the Y5 is just as good a D to boost as a Y8 or Z6. I was still able to get great gas mileage for normal driving AND had the power for more spirited driving.

What you NEED to do OP is decide on power goals FIRST. I swear I am preaching this everyday. THAT will define your budget and what route you should go. I had felt what 180 to the wheels was like and I was FINE with that for the time being, so a greddy kit got me there on my HX with no internal work. If you have higher goals, then maybe a different motor should be your starting point. It alwasy helps to be able to drive or ride in a car with more than stock power. Iw as fortunate. Before that I had those astronomical power goals. I want 500whp or bust. I didnt have the budget...or even the need for that. So a basic greddy kit was fine for me.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Syndacate &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">There's nothing wrong with it per-se.

Though you'd get a lot more power if it was a Y8 you were boosting (assuming stock internals on each).</TD></TR></TABLE>

Please explain how. The Y8 is only rated 12hp higher than the Y5. Do you have any proof to back that claim up. Or are you just assuming? I would like to know where ALOT MORE POWER (your words) would come from.