Well, here's the car car statistics.

1989 Honda CRX Si
B18B1 Motor Swap
Innovative Full Motormounts kit
Neuspeed Race Coils
Stock Shocks
ETD Racing Traction Bar
Fiberglass X1-Style Fenders
Aerospeed Bodykit
15" Konig Zieges
205/55/R15 Cooper Cobra Tires.

Issue #1:
Crank pulley scrapes against the traction bar. I'm only running an alternator. Think if I switched to the CTR pulley, it'd solve this issue?

Issue #2:
1mm of clearance between tire and fender edge. Had to take my wheel liners out to make more space. Are the Neuspeed Race coils supposed to be this low?

Issue #3:
The front tires tuck into the fenders. The rear end of the CRX is up in the air, with about a one fist gap between the quarter-panel and the tire. What the heck? My CRX looks like it took styling cues from a Dodge Charger...Is this how these coils are SUPPOSED to be setup? Will post pics soon.

Issue #4:
Hard to start in michigan's cold weather. I'm pretty sure it's do to the fact that I don't have an ECT sensor hooked up (ECU is flashing Code 6 at me), due to the plug being ripped off and damaged. I replaced the battery last week, with a small energizer that Pepboys offered for my CRX, the cheapest battery they had (I'm going yellow top in a few months anyways). Think the small battery would be a cranking issue?

Thanks alot!
Richard

 

issue #3 i think it might be that u got the coils on backward, the front go in the back and the back in teh front, but like i said am not sure?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Slowass2dr &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">issue #3 i think it might be that u got the coils on backward, the front go in the back and the back in teh front, but like i said am not sure?</TD></TR></TABLE>

exactly what i was going to say. I can almost guarntee that's the problem.

 

for # 1,2and 3..The race springs dump the car,if you dont like that then raise up the car a bit with different springs..also the lower your car is the higher the radius rods are and yes it will touch the crank pulley..


#4 .What is the cca rating on that battery?


Also about the car being jacked in the back,it may not be that the front springs are in the rear,,and the rear springs are in the front...It might have 90-93 integra lowering springs on it,which would cause this and ive seen where some companys list the 88-91 civic and 90-93 integra springs as the same part ,and they're morons...

 

They may be on backwards..i'll take pictures when I get home.

Lmfao, that makes me feel like an idiot.

 

issue #1 I've heard that if you change your crank pully it can drain your battery or at least prevent the alternator from charging it because aftermarket crank pullies are sometimes a different diameter than stock. I don't know how true this is but just in case you might not want to change it. and just like mr.speaker said if you raise the car a little with different springs or adjust the ones you have (if they're adjustable) it will solve some of your problems.

 

like i said earlier i think that issues 1, 2, and 3 wil get fixed if u swap the springs around

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by office888 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Issue #1:
Crank pulley scrapes against the traction bar. I'm only running an alternator. Think if I switched to the CTR pulley, it'd solve this issue?
</TD></TR></TABLE>

If you are only running alternator, why not just get a stock DX pulley (the one without the dampener) and cut off the air cond part of the pulley......It's cheap, and looks stock. Just remember, the Si "dampener" is on there for a reason, and some people will say that it MAY lead to oil pump issues.....None so far here, track only D16A6....good luck

 

cause its too low in the front. u really need the coolant senor hooked up. the tps map and ect all work for timing and injection as well as o2. so if its not working u arnt getting the most outa ur car.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 98lude-t &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">u really need the coolant senor hooked up. the tps map and ect all work for timing and injection as well as o2. so if its not working u arnt getting the most outa ur car.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Not are you not getting the most of your car, you're also not getting the most out of your tank of gas. It's running really rich because it thinks the car never gets warmed up. Short term, this damages your gas mileage. But long term extra gas seeps past the pistons and dissolves the oil from the cylinder walls, making them wear a little faster. It also will slightly dilute your oil (more of a problem on carbed cars if they get a stuck float), making it thinner than it should be.

It's not too hard to wire up a plug. Just please don't do cheap crimp connectors and expect the connection to last.