I currently have:

1x Pioner DEH-6800MP Head Unit
2x Infinity REF9612I 6"x9" speakers
2x Infinity REF6012I 6-1/2" speakers

Waiting to go in:

2x Infinity REF1252W 12" Subwoofers
1x Infinity 611A 600W Amp

What do you guys think? I'm pumped to put my amp and subs in!

I also need help with wiring the subwoofer and amp. I can do it all myself, I'm just not sure of everything I need. I'm also going to be making the box myself.

Could someone add to my list of things I need...

SUB BOX

1. 3/4" MDF
2. 2" Drywall Screws (how many?)
3. Panhead sheet metal screws (how many?)
4. Carpenters glue (how much?)
5. Silcon caulk (how much?)
6. Non-hardening rope caulk (how much?)
7. 2x Speaker terminal cup (One for each subwoofer)

There is also a recommended volume for the subs. If I make one box for both subs, should I just double this volume?

AMP

1. Power wire (4 AWG is recommended. I'm thinking about going with 2 AWG. About how long of a length should I get? It's going from my battery to my trunk in a '97 Honda Civic EX.)
2. Ground wire (Just use a length from the power wire, correct? About how much more wire should I need for this?)
3. Grommet for firewall (Anyone know a good spot in an EX to run the power wire?)
4. In-line fuse holder (2x30A is recommended. Why do I need two?)
5. Will I end up needing ring terminals?
6. RCA cables (how long abouts?)
7. Remote turn on wire (what kind of wire should I use, speaker wire?)
8. Speaker wire for the subwoofers (What AWG should I use?)

Is it cheaper to just buy a wiring kit for the amp? Also, I work for an electrical company so I can get RW90 for cheap through one of our wholesalers. Is this ok, or do I need wire specific for this kind of application? Is RW90 ok, or would something else be better?

Could you guys help add to what I need/give me some guidance?

 

Sub box:
Put enough glue in between the panels, so when you screw them together, some glue comes out. Wipe off the excess. Screws every 3-6 inches (what I did) should be fine, as the glue will be doing most of the holding. Look at your dimensions, and decide for yourself how you will space them out (how many screws). Use enough caulk to cover the inside joints. Don't use the whole tube if you don't need to. If the recommended volume is most likely for one sub, so double that for two subs. You can also make a box with twice the recommended volume (2 subs), and put a divider in the middle. This will make your box stiffer and stronger.

Amp:
You should be fine with 4 gauge wire. Grab a tape measure and see how much you need. Also find a ground spot, and measure from that to the amp (ground wire). You will need a ring terminal for the ground, and maybe for the amp, if it requires it. Instead of 2x30a fuses, use a single 60 or 100 amp fuse. The RCAs that I got with my wiring kit are 18 feet, and that worked for my accord. Should be fine for your civic as well. For the remote, a single conductor 16 or 18 gauge will work. The RW90 would work, but it will be hard to work with (due to its stiffness). Welding wire is much softer, but either one should work.

 

For the divider in the sub box... how should I hold this in place? Just glue?

Also, what type of wire is welding wire? I can get basically anything so if something is better let me know!

 

Use glue and screws. Make your divider fit snugly inside the box, and then glue it and screw it in from the outside. I forgot to mention that you need to predrill all the holes for the screws to avoid splitting the MDF. Welding wire has finer strands, therefore it is more flexible.

 

Thanks for the help.

Any one else have some more tips?

 

One more tip. TAKE YOUR TIME You can cause some serious damage to both your car and the product if you're not careful. Good luck man!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by thw_goalie &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">For the divider in the sub box... how should I hold this in place? Just glue?

Also, what type of wire is welding wire? I can get basically anything so if something is better let me know!</TD></TR></TABLE>
Definitly make a divider. Use screws and glue.


Modified by mrdeadman at 8:05 PM 1/11/2007

 

Welding wire as in the wire used to bring power and ground to the electrode and object being welded respectively.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 02 accord &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Welding wire as in the wire used to bring power and ground to the electrode and object being welded respectively.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Oh, I thought you were talking about solder to attach the speaker wire to the terminals. Didn't read the whole thing... sorry.

 

I am going to leech off this thread.....sorry in advance. I am in the same position. I just got all my stuff (listed in my signature) and am going to start installing as soon as I get my grocery list of stuff. I have a few questions :

-Do brands of wires matter (Monster Cable, Street Wires, etc)?
-Whats the best tool to cut the MDF?
-I am installing 2 amps.....how do I get remote turn-on to both of them?
-Would you guys advise grounding both amps separately, or getting a d-block for grouding?
-Last one......Should I buy my wires at a car audio shop, or at like a Home Depot/Lowes?

 

-Wire is wire. Look for something with fine strands and high-temp insulation.
-I cut mine with a circular saw. Works just fine, but not the easiest way to get straight cuts.
-Run the remote wire to one amp, then jumper it to the other amp.
-Run a separate ground wire from each amp to one point on the chassis.
-Wires at a audio shop will be expensive. If you can find the same gauge, fine stranded wire at HD or Lowe's, get it there; most likely it will be cheaper.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 02 accord &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">-Wire is wire. Look for something with fine strands and high-temp insulation.
-I cut mine with a circular saw. Works just fine, but not the easiest way to get straight cuts.
-Run the remote wire to one amp, then jumper it to the other amp.
-Run a separate ground wire from each amp to one point on the chassis.
-Wires at a audio shop will be expensive. If you can find the same gauge, fine stranded wire at HD or Lowe's, get it there; most likely it will be cheaper.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Thank you. Answered all my questions.......for now

 

Redzag buy quality rca's. You spent some money on the gear, you should buy matching quality cables. If you're going with streetwires I would recommend at least the zn7 stuff or the bullet series stuff from stinger

 

And run the RCA cables and the power cable on opposite sides od the car, this doesnt affect it as much with sobs but when your using a 2 or 4ch to power your speakers you can get interference with the power cable, and yes use car audio rcas, they're shielded and designed to reduce the alternator whine and interference.

The grounds on the amp do not need to go through a d-block you can ground them each directly to th chassis but the power for the two amp will need to go through a distribution block, i personally prefer a d-block with separate fuses.

and now my turn to thread jack haha, can anyone explain to me how you carpet a box? i know your use the super adhesive spray and i think your not suppose to cut the carpet straight where they meet to minimize the gap, but does anyone have a link ?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 12voltz &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">And run the RCA cables and the power cable on opposite sides od the car, this doesnt affect it as much with sobs but when your using a 2 or 4ch to power your speakers you can get interference with the power cable, and yes use car audio rcas, they're shielded and designed to reduce the alternator whine and interference.

The grounds on the amp do not need to go through a d-block you can ground them each directly to th chassis but the power for the two amp will need to go through a distribution block, i personally prefer a d-block with separate fuses.

and now my turn to thread jack haha, can anyone explain to me how you carpet a box? i know your use the super adhesive spray and i think your not suppose to cut the carpet straight where they meet to minimize the gap, but does anyone have a link ?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Thanks man. Couple more questions if you don't mind.

- remote turn on should be run on which side (power side or RCA side?)...and how to I remote both amps (splice?)
- I need to make a sub box for my Boston SPG555. I have the cutout for actual speaker hole (being that it is not round or square, but oval). Recommended size is 1ft^3. I am pretty sure i can do it myself, but this is my first time. Any advice, websites, DIY manuals, links, etc? Thanks in advance

PS&gt; I will need to carpet it after I am done, so I will piggyback on your question about carpeting.

 

The remote turn on can be ran of both sides i do not believe the remote turn on put out enough interference to cause static, i always run it with the rca's since all of that foes behind the radio so it makes it a little bit easier. As for connecting it to the amp you can hook up the remote turn on from the radio to one of the amps, then from there into the other amp; or you can Y the remote turn on and have the two seperate lines going to each amp. And for the volume you can use the volume calculator here http://www.the12volt.com/caraudio/boxcalcs.asp and if you want to put a divider in so you have two separate chambers, get the dimensions for a box that would give you 2ft^3, then add 3/4" to the width. Then when you put the divider in itll give you the desired volume. My box building experience is limited but this is how ive built my boxes so hopefully someone with more experience will chime in since i would love to learn as well.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 12voltz &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">get the dimensions for a box that would give you 2ft^3, then add 3/4" to the width. Then when you put the divider in itll give you the desired volume. My box building experience is limited but this is how ive built my boxes so hopefully someone with more experience will chime in since i would love to learn as well.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Redzag only has one woofer

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by misanthropist &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Redzag only has one woofer </TD></TR></TABLE>

And its a pretty f-ing big one too. With 1000W RMS per sub......its a good thing I don't have two. With its size i am going to go with a sealed box. I will take efficiency over raw power any day. I listen to all types of music.....plus the trunk of the Si doesnt lend itself to much storage space in the first place.

Where can I get carpeting for a box? Hardware store?

 

1ft^3 is not big at all, but if you're feeling ballsy you can always fiberglass the box in the spare well.

 

Yeah, definitely thought about that. I also thought about building an amp rack in the spare well. When I scoped it out, both would fit pretty comfortably i think. I have all my Boston stuff sitting in my basement. I am now just trying to plan out WHAT exactly I am going to do. So many options, get a little overwhelming sometimes.

 

Well feel free to im me any questions, or hit me up on aol. I'm only really on aim late at night though