Poor gas mileage
Change driving habits? Here are some suggestions. Maybe.
-Dirty fuel injector.
-Dirty EGR ports(not sure if this helps)
-Intake filter is dirty, or something is blocking the intake path
-Flat tire?
-Dirty fuel injector.
-Dirty EGR ports(not sure if this helps)
-Intake filter is dirty, or something is blocking the intake path
-Flat tire?
Not sure if switching the type of gas will work. I'm also getting low MPG and about to get the injectors replaced. I'm thinking of going with the Supreme gas at chevron, not sure if it will help with my mpg (I think it was a #89?).
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TheMuffinMan »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">upgrade/update stuff
- spark plugs, wires
- >3k rpm shifts
- >80mph
- accelerate slowly
- decelerate slowly</TD></TR></TABLE>
fixed it for you dude haha. you meant for him to be under 80 right haha
- spark plugs, wires
- >3k rpm shifts
- >80mph
- accelerate slowly
- decelerate slowly</TD></TR></TABLE>
fixed it for you dude haha. you meant for him to be under 80 right haha
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by joenoreason »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">> greater than
< less than
</TD></TR></TABLE>
OWNED!
< less than
</TD></TR></TABLE>OWNED!
Trending Topics
from some website
"No, the teacher is correct, > 25 would be read as "greater than 25."
You are right, too, when you say "the number that the angle points to
was always less than and the wide angle was greater than..." In your
example, the angle 'points to' the 25, so the 25 is less than
whatever, or in other words, whatever is greater than 25."
meh. i was thinking of it as the where it points.
"No, the teacher is correct, > 25 would be read as "greater than 25."
You are right, too, when you say "the number that the angle points to
was always less than and the wide angle was greater than..." In your
example, the angle 'points to' the 25, so the 25 is less than
whatever, or in other words, whatever is greater than 25."
meh. i was thinking of it as the where it points.
just do a nice maintainance by cleaning your fuel injectors, checking air filter, spark plugs/wires distributor cap/rotor, proper tire pressure, check for clean pcv valve. Ever change your fuel filter? (which is not easy)
Thanks for the input now that I think of it I had a 1990 the needed the erg tubes cleaned/drilled out. I thnk it is time for a major tune up. I've also have a 1978 280z I'm trying to bring back to life and getting confused on what I have done to what. thanks
well whatever it is, i am losing gas dramatically. i went from half a tank to 1/4 today in a 15 mile drive. i was driving pretty slow too. i pressed cruise control, but im not sure if that does anything...
You need to check for stored codes, first off.
You could have a bad Engine Coolant Temp sensor. It won't set a code and will keep the engine in open loop, running a rich mixture because it thinks the engine is cold.
You could be low on coolant.
You could have a bad O2 sensor.
I have a 92 EX with 250,000 miles. it still gets 27 MPG.
You could have a bad Engine Coolant Temp sensor. It won't set a code and will keep the engine in open loop, running a rich mixture because it thinks the engine is cold.
You could be low on coolant.
You could have a bad O2 sensor.
I have a 92 EX with 250,000 miles. it still gets 27 MPG.
I have been getting better gas mileage recently since I have been driving like a granny following ALL speed limits. I am getting 32mpg on highway now w[th my 94 accord with 145k miles. I do all my maintenance though. I drive on regular gas all day long.
yeah, one word of advice is to not bother driving on anything other than regular gas. There is no need for higher octane and won't make your car faster. Not sure if you were considering switching, but it's useless.
EGR cleaning:
http://members.troublecodes.ne...R.htm
Use this as a guide. This is for 5th gen. On the 4th gens, you need to drill out actual holes to get to it, after you remove the plate.
Here's the one for 4th gens.
http://home.comcast.net/~em-engineering/T2T013.pdf
I like Hondadudes directions better aside from not mentioning drilling the ports, since he did his on a 5th gen. They pretty much follow the same steps though.
EGR cleaning:
http://members.troublecodes.ne...R.htm
Use this as a guide. This is for 5th gen. On the 4th gens, you need to drill out actual holes to get to it, after you remove the plate.
Here's the one for 4th gens.
http://home.comcast.net/~em-engineering/T2T013.pdf
I like Hondadudes directions better aside from not mentioning drilling the ports, since he did his on a 5th gen. They pretty much follow the same steps though.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Homesickelian »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yeah, one word of advice is to not bother driving on anything other than regular gas. There is no need for higher octane and won't make your car faster. Not sure if you were considering switching, but it's useless.
EGR cleaning:
http://members.troublecodes.ne...R.htm
Use this as a guide. This is for 5th gen. On the 4th gens, you need to drill out actual holes to get to it, after you remove the plate.
Here's the one for 4th gens.
http://home.comcast.net/~em-engineering/T2T013.pdf
I like Hondadudes directions better aside from not mentioning drilling the ports, since he did his on a 5th gen. They pretty much follow the same steps though.</TD></TR></TABLE>
i switched to premium last week... drove around 45 miles so far... and its still a bit below full tank.
EGR cleaning:
http://members.troublecodes.ne...R.htm
Use this as a guide. This is for 5th gen. On the 4th gens, you need to drill out actual holes to get to it, after you remove the plate.
Here's the one for 4th gens.
http://home.comcast.net/~em-engineering/T2T013.pdf
I like Hondadudes directions better aside from not mentioning drilling the ports, since he did his on a 5th gen. They pretty much follow the same steps though.</TD></TR></TABLE>
i switched to premium last week... drove around 45 miles so far... and its still a bit below full tank.
trust me, premium gas won't do **** to your gas mileage and speed. If anything it will hurt those things. Your car is meant for the regular octane, and it's such a misconception that higher octane makes your car run better.
im gettin 15mpg, of course thats assuming i have 17gallon tank, and burnt off a third according to the needle, and trip meter said 85miles
but thats a REALLLY crude and barbaric even, estimate, not too bad though considering the way i been drivining it ever since i put in the cold air intake, VTEC sound at WOT=crack to me
, once u hit it, you gotta' hit it again duude,
so i tried yalls advice even though some of it doesnt apply to me cuz i have an automatic (not by choice though), but i been driving like an old lady and the extra little bit of low end torque help it not take forever to get up to speed movin the haul-*** pedal only like 1/2"
ive been able to half *** control the rpms to only go up to 2800 in first gear, then hover around 1500-2400 the rest onf the time, sometimes ill get it to shift at 2500 in first, but i was used to 3300 and 4000
its not bad, i was already getting used to hittin VTEC hittin redline, peelin out, speeding,
after that i got a few (probably derr questions to yall) questions to shoot at yall, is it more efficient to gain speed in 3rd at 2100rpm, or try and gain speed at 15-1600 rpm in fourth with the possiblity of the trans down shiftin into 3rd anyways
is it safe to put my auto trans into neutral, while its still movin at like 25mph when the light turns red, then it turns green and im goin 15, shift it back into gear while rollin, or at any other speed IE: 45mph sone goin 45, light turs red coast till im goin 30, oh **** light turns green, can i shift back into gear or am i boned
will using 1/2/D3/D4 like its a manual trans mission explitive anything up or be more trouble than its worth
what about to go say 30mph, i can use 4th and chug at 1500 or 3rd and be alive at 2000-2100
i have code P0420 for catalyst yadda yada u know the drill, car has 90K on da clock, i dont think its the cat, probably the O2 sensors cuz wouldnt that cause the car to run inneficient, not respond to throttle well either...
also, isnt VTEC disabled from being engaged when theres any CEL's on, like my p0420 for instance
AND
yall heard of WIX air filters, nascar uses them ,theyre dry, and disposable, 20bucks at oreillys for the 98-02 I4 accord, any good, ive use them before in my grandpas 3.0V6 ranger and immediatley noticed a differnece(over a logged pos lol)
but thats a REALLLY crude and barbaric even, estimate, not too bad though considering the way i been drivining it ever since i put in the cold air intake, VTEC sound at WOT=crack to me
, once u hit it, you gotta' hit it again duude, so i tried yalls advice even though some of it doesnt apply to me cuz i have an automatic (not by choice though), but i been driving like an old lady and the extra little bit of low end torque help it not take forever to get up to speed movin the haul-*** pedal only like 1/2"
ive been able to half *** control the rpms to only go up to 2800 in first gear, then hover around 1500-2400 the rest onf the time, sometimes ill get it to shift at 2500 in first, but i was used to 3300 and 4000
its not bad, i was already getting used to hittin VTEC hittin redline, peelin out, speeding,
after that i got a few (probably derr questions to yall) questions to shoot at yall, is it more efficient to gain speed in 3rd at 2100rpm, or try and gain speed at 15-1600 rpm in fourth with the possiblity of the trans down shiftin into 3rd anyways
is it safe to put my auto trans into neutral, while its still movin at like 25mph when the light turns red, then it turns green and im goin 15, shift it back into gear while rollin, or at any other speed IE: 45mph sone goin 45, light turs red coast till im goin 30, oh **** light turns green, can i shift back into gear or am i boned
will using 1/2/D3/D4 like its a manual trans mission explitive anything up or be more trouble than its worth
what about to go say 30mph, i can use 4th and chug at 1500 or 3rd and be alive at 2000-2100
i have code P0420 for catalyst yadda yada u know the drill, car has 90K on da clock, i dont think its the cat, probably the O2 sensors cuz wouldnt that cause the car to run inneficient, not respond to throttle well either...
also, isnt VTEC disabled from being engaged when theres any CEL's on, like my p0420 for instance
AND
yall heard of WIX air filters, nascar uses them ,theyre dry, and disposable, 20bucks at oreillys for the 98-02 I4 accord, any good, ive use them before in my grandpas 3.0V6 ranger and immediatley noticed a differnece(over a logged pos lol)
im also getting crap mileage, but i only calculated one tank so far so I need some more time.
this car is in KM so one tank (not till E since the gas light didnt come on, im paranoid ad dont wait until the light comes on, so i never use reserve)
I was practically on the E though and I had 455 km times 0.62 to convert into miles and I got about 282 miles, and I had put in 13.45 gallons of 87 octane fuel.
282/13.45 = 20.9 mpg. not super bad, but what are these cars supposed to get?
now I know it wont be that good since the car does have 133k miles and I cant expect it to have like new gas mileage, but I want to restore it to like new gas performance as much as I can.
I havent had the chance for a tune up yet since its freezing here.
I'll sway out the plugs, dist cap and rotor. restore oil treatment to try to resotre some compression, fuel treatment.
try to clean or replace the air filter, and change the fuel filter.
also I'll drive it like a granny on one whole tank since i have varied driving habits. I mostly drive on the highway to go to school and back, but in the morning its mainly stop and go so not highway benefit there.
I occasionally redline it since youre supposed to do that once in a while, but usually i shift anywhere from 2500 to 4500 rpms.
this car is in KM so one tank (not till E since the gas light didnt come on, im paranoid ad dont wait until the light comes on, so i never use reserve)
I was practically on the E though and I had 455 km times 0.62 to convert into miles and I got about 282 miles, and I had put in 13.45 gallons of 87 octane fuel.
282/13.45 = 20.9 mpg. not super bad, but what are these cars supposed to get?
now I know it wont be that good since the car does have 133k miles and I cant expect it to have like new gas mileage, but I want to restore it to like new gas performance as much as I can.
I havent had the chance for a tune up yet since its freezing here.
I'll sway out the plugs, dist cap and rotor. restore oil treatment to try to resotre some compression, fuel treatment.
try to clean or replace the air filter, and change the fuel filter.
also I'll drive it like a granny on one whole tank since i have varied driving habits. I mostly drive on the highway to go to school and back, but in the morning its mainly stop and go so not highway benefit there.
I occasionally redline it since youre supposed to do that once in a while, but usually i shift anywhere from 2500 to 4500 rpms.



