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CV Boots finally went completely out!

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Old Jan 10, 2007 | 04:11 PM
  #1  
BlueLude84's Avatar
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From: Idaho Falls, ID, US
Default CV Boots finally went completely out!

I knew it was gonna happen when my axle's started clicking when i turned, now the clicking is non-stop, driving in any direction.
So heres the question, how difficult is it to change both half shafts? Never done it myself, so i would have no idea...
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Old Jan 10, 2007 | 04:19 PM
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roller3804's Avatar
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From: Fort Worth, TX
Default Re: CV Boots finally went completely out! (BlueLude84)

its a piece of cake. If you have air tools, 40 minutes for both sides. Although i've done it quite a few times.
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Old Jan 10, 2007 | 05:00 PM
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If you have the tools and the knowledge (or Helms) it shouldn't take more than an hour per side
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Old Jan 10, 2007 | 07:08 PM
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Default Re: (InvaderTrax)

how about the tools and a schilton?
cuz i dont have a helms. lol
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Old Jan 10, 2007 | 08:07 PM
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From: Fort Worth, TX
Default Re: (BlueLude84)

I can give you a write up real quick.

tools needed:
a nice car friend
17mm socket
17mm open end wrench
19mm socket
small allen key and needle nose pliars (to pull the cotter pin from the lower hub castle nut)
pry bar
36mm axel socket and breaker bar
a 5lbs hammer to break the lower balljoint loose.

Air tools are not needed but make things wayyy faster.

1.Loosen lugnuts on wheels and Pull up ebrake
2.Jack up car on both sides and place jackstand to support
3.Remove lugnuts and wheels
4.Ill start with driverside, remove the bolt lower bolt on the shock fork using 17mm socket and 17mm open end wrench.
5.Use needle nose pliars to bend back the cotterpin on the castle nut on the lower ball joint. Then stick the small allen key through the loop on the otherside of the cotter pin and slide the needle nose infront of the allen key and use it as a wall to hit with the hammer causing the cotter pin to pop out.
6.Pop off the castle nut using 19mm socket.
7. Use 5lbs hammer to smack the balljoint to break it lose. its gonna take some pretty hard waks. Be careful not to hit anything else. Hit it a few times and see if u can lift the suspension up by holding the brake caliper and pulling upward. If not keep hitting till it breaks lose. Sometimes its a bitch but dont give up.
8. Use breaker bar and 36mm socket to break axel nut and remove the nut.
9. Have the friend pull up on the suspension using the caliper as a holding point while you use the pry bar to pop the outer axel spline out of the hub. After getting the outer part out of the hub go to the inner part of the axel and pop the other spline out of the intermediate shaft. this one is a little tougher because of the snapring holding it in. The prybar is a must I think
10. Replace axel and make sure it is snapped back in on the inner part.
11. Put the outer axel spline back in the hub.
12. Reassemble everything in the reverse order.

Passenger side is the exact same. Exept the axels are different make sure u get one for each side when buying new ones.

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Old Jan 10, 2007 | 09:17 PM
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BlueLude84's Avatar
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From: Idaho Falls, ID, US
Default Re: (roller3804)

only 1 problem... about the pulling up the e-brake part... my car's e-brake is trashed, it doesnt work at all. cant even pull the lever up.
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Old Jan 11, 2007 | 02:31 AM
  #7  
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From: Fort Worth, TX
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block the rear wheels. and wedge a 2x4 between the brake pedal and seat
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