Should I be able to compress the rear brake caliper if I still have all brake lines connected and with full pressure? Or do I need to disconnect the brake line before I can tell if the caliper is frozen up? I am getting this SUPER uneven wear on the rear inside pad and I am thinking the caliper must be shot. If anyone can help me with an answer it would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,

Allen

 

yes you can. if it doesnt, im assuming its frozen

 

remember though that the rear calipers differ from the front in that you can not just compress the rear, you have to turn it down. if you are just trying to force it down it will not go anywhere, it must be TURNED.

 

Yeah, I know that they have to be turned. It just won't turn. Here is a picture of what my rear inner pad looks like:

What do you think?

 

it looks like your rotors may be warped causing your brake pads to wear un-evenly

there is a special tool you can buy to turn the rear caliper, but I just use vise grips, it takes a while but it will work

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DC2 Mang &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">it looks like your rotors may be warped causing your brake pads to wear un-evenly

there is a special tool you can buy to turn the rear caliper, but I just use vise grips, it takes a while but it will work
</TD></TR></TABLE>

I have new brembo blanks on their way here. I am still weary of the caliper though. Is there anyway I can test to see if the rotor is warped?

 

are the rotors discolored? (extreme heat will cause this, which is usually caused by warped rotors or a seized caliper).....personally i would say instead of guessing and having this same thing occur when you put the brembos on, invest in a new caliper if not both.

 

Okay, I was able to get the piston to compress. I still think there is something wrong with it though. Yeah, I replaced the driver side on last brake job because of similar problem. What would you recommend as a temporary fix until the blanks arrive? Maybe go get some new cheap pads and throw them on?

 

cheap pads for the time being is where its at....should only be like 15 bucks for all 4 pads at autozone

 

cool, thanks.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Si_Allen &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Yeah, I know that they have to be turned. It just won't turn. Here is a picture of what my rear inner pad looks like:

What do you think?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Check your caliper pins to see if move freely and are not bent.

 

yeah I always grease up my caliper slide pins every time I replace pads and rotors. 243K miles now and I'm still on the factory original brake calipers without problems.

 

where exactly are the caliper pins?

 

Also, should the metal tab be toward top or toward the bottom when properly sitting in place?

 

the pins/sliders are under the rubber boot that your two caliper bolts fasten to and go into your caliper. by the looks of that pic one of them are seized in the calipers. white grease works well with those pins.

 

I greased up the slider pins and bought some cheapo pads from Autozone as a temp fix for the noise situation. When I go to put on the new brembo blanks and EBC pads I will see if the uneven wear is continuing in the rear. Hopefully the greasing up of all parts will work, if not I suppose I will replace the caliper.

-Allen