Help Honda-Tech with Accord problems
First off, I searched and it seems that the topics I found are similar to what I am experiencing however; mine seems worse.
My cousin just bought a 1993 Honda Accord EX and it struggles to start. After it does start it idles really low at about 200rpm and the motor sounds like it's sputtering. It would die on it's own and when I try to give it gas nothing happens. The throttle body opens up but nothing happens. A full tune up was done to the car as well as a compression test which revealed that the compression is perfect in all 4 cylinders. We changed the MAP sensor and even the distributor but still have the problem. After reading some of these threads I will try to mess with the IACV tomorrow.
Now here's where it gets real weird... after disconnecting the vacuum line pictured below (21) and cranking the motor, my dad would suck into it (not sure if that's safe) while cranking. The motor's idle would smoothen out close to normal and when u give it gas it would rev to like 3000rpm really slowly and then reve normally after 3000rpm to red line. Any input is greatly appreciated.
Vacuum line 21..

Pic of the car...
My cousin just bought a 1993 Honda Accord EX and it struggles to start. After it does start it idles really low at about 200rpm and the motor sounds like it's sputtering. It would die on it's own and when I try to give it gas nothing happens. The throttle body opens up but nothing happens. A full tune up was done to the car as well as a compression test which revealed that the compression is perfect in all 4 cylinders. We changed the MAP sensor and even the distributor but still have the problem. After reading some of these threads I will try to mess with the IACV tomorrow.
Now here's where it gets real weird... after disconnecting the vacuum line pictured below (21) and cranking the motor, my dad would suck into it (not sure if that's safe) while cranking. The motor's idle would smoothen out close to normal and when u give it gas it would rev to like 3000rpm really slowly and then reve normally after 3000rpm to red line. Any input is greatly appreciated.
Vacuum line 21..

Pic of the car...
Follow line 21 to the Control Box -- the black box on the firewall. To look inside the box, you have to pull it off, and THEN take off its lid -- the easiet way to do it. Leave one bolt in the firewall for easier reassembly.
Most likely 21 leads to the MAP sensor -- a common cause of idle problems. Either the sensor may be bad (eBay?) or the line to it is PLUGGED, including inside of the throttle body. (Which end did your dad suck on is the question.)
Have you cleaned out the throttle body itself? It's a good idea. But do not let the carb cleaner get back into the MAP sensor, because it may RUIN IT.
Another guilty part often is the throttle body sensor on the backside of the TB. Unplug the electrical connection and see what happens.
If you take anything off, MAKE SURE that you use good gaskets -- otherwise you will have an airleak and a sick idle.
Been there.
Sounds like you guys are on the right track.
Most likely 21 leads to the MAP sensor -- a common cause of idle problems. Either the sensor may be bad (eBay?) or the line to it is PLUGGED, including inside of the throttle body. (Which end did your dad suck on is the question.)
Have you cleaned out the throttle body itself? It's a good idea. But do not let the carb cleaner get back into the MAP sensor, because it may RUIN IT.
Another guilty part often is the throttle body sensor on the backside of the TB. Unplug the electrical connection and see what happens.
If you take anything off, MAKE SURE that you use good gaskets -- otherwise you will have an airleak and a sick idle.
Been there.
Sounds like you guys are on the right track.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by oodie »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Is that line running to Map sensor?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yes that line runs to the MAP sensor.
Yes that line runs to the MAP sensor.
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OK so I decided to take a look at the timing. Well, the timing is off and the belt has a lot of slack on it. It seems like the timing jumped. It freezing outside so the belt will be changed tomorrow. I hope this fixes it.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DaBzzMN »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">clean out your egr valve, its no getting the right pressure.</TD></TR></TABLE>
NO SOUP FOR YOU!
back to Honda egr 101 class and try again.
NO SOUP FOR YOU!
back to Honda egr 101 class and try again.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Maple50175 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">dude what are you lowered with on that accord. ****'s slammed! </TD></TR></TABLE>
Yeah it's too slammed, especially for NYC streets. The previous owner says it's sitting on H&R suspension. It scrapes everywhere and my cousin definitely has to raise it up. But it sure looks BADASS
Yeah it's too slammed, especially for NYC streets. The previous owner says it's sitting on H&R suspension. It scrapes everywhere and my cousin definitely has to raise it up. But it sure looks BADASS
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