Alright let me start this off that i have had some great help on honda tech and hope to continue to do soo in the future. I did a search on the subject but only was able to find FS and WTB adds. My power steering in my ek has had a pretty bad leak for the last while and i have had it fixed and fixed it myself numerous times and its to the point where i will have to totally redo all of the lines. Now i am not wanting to undo the lines but rather convert it to manual steering. Could some one please let me know the parts i will need and the steps i should take to acomplish this goal. I am not mechanically inclined but have never done anyting with powers teering before. At this point i only know that i will have to remove the resevoir and then remove the power steering lines but am unaware what to do after? will i need to find a manual steering rack from my local autowreckers? The motor is a b16b if that makes any difference. I would really apreciate if some one could post that is more knowledable on the subject than me.

Thanks in advance


This is what im working with

 

Really..just disconnect your lines and remove the pump. Then take everything p/s out of it. I'm running without p/s as is..however, my car came without it from the factory. Lawlz.

 

The right way to do it is to remove all the P/S equipment and then, install a manual steering rack. Alot of people just remove all the stuff and cap the P/S rack, and that works but its harder to steer cause that racks steering ratio is ment for P/S. The best way and the rigth way and the safest way is to install a manual rack.

If your looking for a manual steering rack I have one for sale... $100 bux shipped.

 

what would i need to cap the PS rack? does anyone know if i need a specific type of threaded plug or anyting else needed?

 

personally i would keep your P/S

it is a pain in the *** not to have it

and if your worried about power lossed to p/s

then underdrive it!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by vtec4lyfe &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> what would i need to cap the PS rack? does anyone know if i need a specific type of threaded plug or anything else needed?</TD></TR></TABLE>


there are a million threads on here talking about why not to do that and why it could be a bad idea

i will give you a clue

could lead to the rack locking up

 

Its not the loss in power i am worried about its that it has had a leak for the past while and i have had it fixed numerous times and fixed it myself and its beena huge paint in the ***. I have a b16b in my ek hatch and there isnt much room to work so redoing all of the lines is a HUGE project. I have searched

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by vtec4lyfe &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Its not the loss in power i am worried about its that it has had a leak for the past while and i have had it fixed numerous times and fixed it myself and its beena huge paint in the ***. I have a b16b in my ek hatch and there isnt much room to work so redoing all of the lines is a HUGE project. I have searched
</TD></TR></TABLE>

ok ok ok

just swap the racks for the non power steering one simple as that just make sure it is for the 96-00 non power rack because the 92-95 will not fit your car

 

thank you richard! i also just fount this

https://honda-tech.com/zero...age=1

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by vtec4lyfe &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">thank you richard! i also just fount this

https://honda-tech.com/zero...age=1</TD></TR></TABLE>

i read about that when the thread was first posted!

BUT there is a problem that kit or idea is for the 92-95 and the 94-2001 acura

that will work

i EVEN have the website were you can order the kit i will have to look it up in m book marks BUT look at our cars were the p/S rack is and were those lines go

will not work for 96-00 civic i do not believe BUT if it dose and you try it post a pic so i can see it for my self good luck!

 

Yea, you SHOULD keep it. My buddy is making over 400 at the wheels in his Teg and he went without powersteering for like.. ONE WEEK.

He said when 17psi hit that the wheel would almost seem to lock up and even the slightest bump in the road would cause it to jerk.

So, if you want high horsepower numbers in the future you ought to consider it.

 

what intake is that?

 

your picture with the fingers what dose that mean

?
type B16

 

it means one in the stink and two in the pink or vise versa.

 

the SHOCKER!

 

 

When you remove all of your P/S stuff you can donate them to me

I want P/S in my EK really bad but I'm broke.

And if you live in ATL then I help you do the conversion for free, I just get to keep the old parts.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by richard7968 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
there are a million threads on here talking about why not to do that and why it could be a bad idea

i will give you a clue

could lead to the rack locking up
</TD></TR></TABLE>

I heard this also before I removed mine. Ive had my civic for 7 years (2000 si) and no powersteering for about 6. I just unbolted the lines and left the one main line that goes to the rack and wrapped it up so it was out of the way. I have never had a problem with locking up. Maybe with the big line still connected enough fluid stayed in the rack to keep it lubricated like the same principal the loop is aimed at. Also that thing about looping that you found in the type-r forum won't work on our cars. The rack is differnt.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by cherryhatch00 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Yea, you SHOULD keep it. My buddy is making over 400 at the wheels in his Teg and he went without powersteering for like.. ONE WEEK.

He said when 17psi hit that the wheel would almost seem to lock up and even the slightest bump in the road would cause it to jerk.

So, if you want high horsepower numbers in the future you ought to consider it.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yea this is true, it does jerk the wheel around a lot. After a while of driving with it though you realize all you need to do is let the wheel jerk and not try to fight it and it just straightens right back out. This is with my stock motor though I imagine with 400+ whp it would be a little more extreme especially torque steer when accelerating.

I like my no p/s though. You feel like your more in control of the car after a while. When I drive cars with the powersteering now it feels like im floating. my .02

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by electronb16si &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I heard this also before I removed mine. Ive had my civic for 7 years (2000 si) and no powersteering for about 6. I just unbolted the lines and left the one main line that goes to the rack and wrapped it up so it was out of the way. I have never had a problem with locking up. Maybe with the big line still connected enough fluid stayed in the rack to keep it lubricated like the same principal the loop is aimed at. Also that thing about looping that you found in the type-r forum won't work on our cars. The rack is differnt.


Yea this is true, it does jerk the wheel around a lot. After a while of driving with it though you realize all you need to do is let the wheel jerk and not try to fight it and it just straightens right back out. This is with my stock motor though I imagine with 400+ whp it would be a little more extreme especially torque steer when accelerating.

I like my no p/s though. You feel like your more in control of the car after a while. When I drive cars with the powersteering now it feels like im floating. my .02</TD></TR></TABLE>


underdrive the power steering and let the air out of your tires then lol