well since i'm in the process of do a d16a6 N/A rebuild w/PM7 pistons i've been doing some reserch on oil starvation and oil pump up grades. now the reason this has come to mind is, tha we up-grade our fuel pump, injectors, brakes, and whatever we can. **** it's in our gene, we're men. but within all this up grade i rarely here any one up-grading thier oil pump or anything to maintain our motor from oil starvation. so may-be withing doing this thread some question can be answer or even i might even answer my own questions on here thread.

here's flow chart below. now if you see there is a very small qt/min@rpm ratio w/a little porting it should improve the flow rate(for your engine build).

Some info on swapping around OEM Honda oil pumps:

D16A6 Oil pump flows 46.4 qt/min@6250rpm
D16Z6 Oil pump flows 47.6 qt/min@6000rpm
D16Y8 Oil pump flows 35.3 qt/min@6800rpm

now i have readed endyn's link on: D Series Engine Building Tips
http://www.theoldone.com/artic...tips/

i'm still a little confuse. it lies within two part on endyn page. the first one is: the opening of the oil holes on the main bearing. if the oil on the bearing is a bit smaller wouldn't opening help with the porting of the oil pump and they open the diameter of the main oil gallery on the side of the block. they also did do considerable radiusing of it's intersect with the oil filter housing. has anyone else has seen, heard or have any experience someone else doing this type of work on they N/A build up.

and second is really not about the oil pump but more of a footnote question. now on the endyn page they were talking about notching your block. is really important to even notch your block even if you're using your stock rods w/different piston?

as i have done more research i've stumble on this thread:

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1573353

now since now the understanding or my understanding is what helps kill is the hi-revs. now since i'm going to to have a 12lbs flywheel and having my red line at 7,200-7500k w/ the shift light around 6,800-7,000k should i have any worrys of my oil pump failure.

and please i'm not trying to be a noob, i have done some extensive research. it's just everyone kind-a-dances around these type of questions. but most of all i'm really trying to protect my investment in all forms and ways.

 

I can't really help you with the oil pump mods. I've read and reread the writeup from endyne, but I really dont' think it's necessary. Use a Z6 pump and be done.

The only reason you have to notch the block is when you're using aftermarket rods which are at least 2x as wide as stock. They will hit the base of the cyl if they are not notched out. There's no reason to do it if using stock rods.

 

I too read, reread and probably read the oil pump mod from Endyne (actually walked past it this morning...there's a print out of it laying on top of my dryer )
I decided not to modify the pump on my build. I bought a brand new pump form Honda for $170 for the Z6. I just figured this new part needed no modifications.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by danmdevries &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The only reason you have to notch the block is when you're using aftermarket rods which are at least 2x as wide as stock. They will hit the base of the cyl if they are not notched out. There's no reason to do it if using stock rods. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Depending on the block and rod bolts you may have to notch the girdle as well.
OE rods do not have this problem.

 

i kind-a-understood that about the rods, it just didn't say that.