I'm woundering if anyone can help. I'm trying to make a header,I can not figure out how to make the four pipes come together for the collector. The tools that I have is band saw, pipe notcher, I have pretty much all of your basic tools. I figured if I notched all four pipes the same that they would come together, but there not. Can some one tell me what I'm doing wrong? Some pictures of the process would help too. Also what I'm using to practice with is 1 1/2 sechedule 40 PVC pipe. I'll try to post pictures of my problem asap
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Edit My initial answer, another guys post, and my response have been moved here from the FI forum where this guy originally posted Edit

Welcome to the club man. You really have to do some searching to find the answers on this. I make mine on a HF bandsaw. You really just need to make a jig setup for repeatability. Some people are crazy overprotective with this process, and honestly I think it's kind of lame.

I dont' have pics cause I am at work right now, but basically this is what I put together:

I got a piece of square tube that was 1/8" thick and cut it so it was an L shape. I mounted that at an angle to the blades path. This determined the pipes consistent angle when the pipe was rested in the corner of the L like in the pic. So this establishes the proper angle you need....this takes some messin around to get it right. Basically though, if the OD of the pipe is 1.901 and you want say a merged 2" outlet, then you need each pipe to contributed just over 90 degrees after being cut in order to create a combined 2" outlet.



So once you can cut at an angle, the next part is to be able to rotate the pipe exactly 90 degrees for the next cut. So this is what I did. I got an expandable bushing from autozone and backed it with a plate that was was cut exactly square...measured to the OD of the pipe plus 1/4" (OD of pipe+1/8"+1/8") This was so that when the plate was mounted to the back of the pipe, that it would allow the pipe to lay flush in the square tube piece and allow the plate to but up against the back and lay flat against the base of the bandsaw...essentially making it "true" and stable. Once the bushing was locked inside, it basically made the round tube square which ensured it was rotated 90 degrees exactly. Like this....



Then, once I had that made I needed to secure it so it didn't move. I added some tabs to the L base that does this. The bolts are placed so that they push into the rear of the plate attached the the pipe, and push down on the top of the plate. By having the plate sized 1/8" over it basically butts up against the base made of square tube. It locks it basically from all angles.



I then added tabs to the base so that it bolts to the bandsaw. If you click the link in my sig from my build thread of my del sol you can see a collector that was cut using this jig. It's close enough that when welded inside, all is good.

Think of this as a gift. This was some time on my part to figure out. Not saying its some form of genious because it isn't, but it's simply time and effort....nothing was handed to me. By doing this for you though, if your able to make any headway or improve the design, I would think you would be honorable enough to contribute.

I will be making another one, because there are some problems. The method of securing the pipe/backing plate was more of an afterthought. The tabs are at a mechanical disadvantage so they flex. That flex is causing some type of skewing in the placement of the pipe. The square tubing is also textured inside, and I am not sure I trust it's a perfectly level surface inside. Overall though, I think the idea is worthy and will eventually make them perfect as long as the bandsaw cooperates.

Now some mod needs to give me my 1% back that George Knighton took from me.

Yeah, that is how my first one was on my chop saw. I just didn't like the inconsistency of rotating it to a "mark". I wanted something more exact.

The plate that butts to the end of the pipe, like I said, is 1/4" larger than the OD of the pipe. This allows the pipe to lay flat inside the base, and the square plate to lie flush on the bandsaw (base is 1/8", so 1/4" added to backing plate allows 1/8" overhang from OD of the pipe on all sides). The bushing is mounted to the plate on the center line of the backing plate...thefore the pipe rotates along the center. This is imperative though, because if it is off axis your two cuts will be different.


Modified by RC000E at 7:27 AM 1/6/2007


Modified by RC000E at 7:29 AM 1/6/2007


Modified by RC000E at 7:34 AM 1/6/2007

 

very nice^

 

will have to look at it when I get home. my work computer blocks all the pictures.

 

Do all this for the O.P. and the guy doesn't even respond....lol.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RC000E &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Do all this for the O.P. and the guy doesn't even respond....lol.</TD></TR></TABLE>

He's now out and about continuing with his plans to control the worlds collector market.

 

Good luck with that

Somehow some people formed the opinion that cutting collectors was some lost art so making them should be kept a big secret like how to make weapons grade uranium. If he hasn't even managed to come to this thread, he ain't making a damn thing.

 

RC000E,

Your going to be assassinated for posting this!

Merge collector secrets ftw!

 

Hahaha...yeah right. From what I have heard most guys making these are rockin sharpies and vice grips to make them still. I am gonna start working on version 2 here shortly. I wanna get these 100% perfect on this cheapie bandsaw.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RC000E &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I am gonna start working on version 2 here shortly. I wanna get these 100% perfect on this cheapie bandsaw.</TD></TR></TABLE>

i've got a HF Bandsaw that is a real pain the the ars! Still trying to work the bugs out of the collectors.. i will post up tips as i eliminate the bugs.

very informal post above!

 

Thanks for the help everyone

 

I have to say that this is one of the most sought after posts on building collectors - I have been looking for a long time. Just would like to say thanks for putting it together and sharing the info. I would love to see pics of your actual setup/jig if you have time.

EJ

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hondacivic00 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I have been looking for a long time</TD></TR></TABLE>

I can tell by your 12-5-2006 join date.... lol

Well, like I said, I am going to be making a new jig that should be more accurate.

Also, I have an idea that may change the jig while make it simpler in function, and be even more consistent. It's unfortunate in a sense because the HF bandsaw is good and bad in some ways. It's hard to determine what it your jig and what is your bandsaw in regards to inconsistency.

I don't feel I let any big secret out....there are also guys on HMT that have posted pics of their methods. It really just takes some imagination coupled with what you need to accomplish as far as cuts to put together a jig that'll work.

 

just a quick tip that my fabber likes to do:

use pcv piping and practice making collectors and such. this way you can setup your angles and stuff to get a general idea.

this way it costs alot less than going through piles of stainless or whatever you are using. also the pcv is a bit easier to grind and recut when you are tweaking angles and such since it cuts easier. then u can copy it over to your actual materials. great for mockup.

 

Excellent tip!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dan240t &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">just a quick tip that my fabber likes to do:

use pcv piping and practice making collectors and such. this way you can setup your angles and stuff to get a general idea.

this way it costs alot less than going through piles of stainless or whatever you are using. also the pcv is a bit easier to grind and recut when you are tweaking angles and such since it cuts easier. then u can copy it over to your actual materials. great for mockup.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I should go take a pic of my bandsaw and the floor around it. I could make thirty feet of pvc pipe if I recycled all the plastic shavings everywhere.

There is some PVC that is all but identical in OD to sch10....the wall is thicker though making the ID smaller on the PVC.

Here's a pic of the final pvc collector mockup and the actual stainless collector side by side. Also, PVC doesn't cut just a little quicker and sand slightly better...it cuts lightning fast and sands lightning fast also. If only stainless were so easy.





Modified by RC000E at 1:34 PM 1/12/2007

 

RC000E , Just curious do you cut the bottom of the collectors to make them flat to weld to the turbo flange

 

ok i know, noob question, how do you weld on the inside? just use a lens and pull the tungten out farther? also do you have to weld on the inside then if the outside is welded? thanks guys

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dr.NAPIER &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">RC000E , Just curious do you cut the bottom of the collectors to make them flat to weld to the turbo flange</TD></TR></TABLE>

Absolutely....

In this recent mani I posted for my del sol you can see a pic of the collector tacked to the stainless base plate I use...cut flat



<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TurboHondaGuy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ok i know, noob question, how do you weld on the inside? just use a lens and pull the tungten out farther? also do you have to weld on the inside then if the outside is welded? thanks guys</TD></TR></TABLE>

Some lenses will give you 1.5 inches of pulling out the tungsten, beyond that things can get funky. The insides of the collector are up to 3.5 inches deep inside. There is a trick to it....and some stuff needs kept in the dark. Gotta figure that one out on your own man.

 

RC000E,


Schedule maintains the OD reguardless of material. As the schedule goes up, the ID goes down only.

The PVC is thicker because it is schedule 40, I have never seen 1.5" schedule 10 PVC in hardware stores or plumbing stores.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by F20Cteg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">RC000E,


Schedule maintains the OD reguardless of material. As the schedule goes up, the ID goes down only.

The PVC is thicker because it is schedule 40, I have never seen 1.5" schedule 10 PVC in hardware stores or plumbing stores.


</TD></TR></TABLE>

Well, thanks for the PVC info, I didn't think I contradicted your information there. I simply walked into HD with a piece of sch10 and matched it up to the pvc on the rack.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RC000E &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Well, thanks for the PVC info, I didn't think I contradicted your information there. I simply walked into HD with a piece of sch10 and matched it up to the pvc on the rack. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Right, you were correct. No contradictions on your part. I was explaining why the PVC was thicker. Because it is schedule 40 instead of 10.

 

cool, cool....

 

Anyone use a chopsaw to cut these? I would think that it would be less problematic than a band saw...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Sobe_Death &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Anyone use a chopsaw to cut these? I would think that it would be less problematic than a band saw...</TD></TR></TABLE>

That's how I've made my first few. Trust me the chopsaw just introduces a whole new set of problems, mostly blade walk.


Best way is to cut the pipe so that the very bottom of the saw blade touches the front part of the pipe and not on the side of the pipe.


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