I've been looking into purchasing a sleeved block for a few months.. I currently have a stock bore built b16 running on 18lbs on pump gas making 370hp and 243 tq but want more power..

I've got a chance to get a dart block with a eagle crank 95mm stroke.. The motor was a 14:1 compression all motor car.. They will take out the all motor pistons,eagle rods etc.. They will add low compression Arias pistons,Carillo rods and big rod bolts assembled for 2500 bucks..

Is this block stronger then a sleeved block?

will the dart block and this setup handle 600 hp??

 

It should be a lot stronger, if I was u I would go with bigger pistons just to make sure u get a good piston ring seal.

 

they told me with the crank and all it would be a 2.1 L ...

I was gonna slap my built b16 head on it..


The block made 239hp with a GSR head would that hp all motor run good times in the 1/4?? I was told it would give me turbo car a run for its money i ran a 12.2 at 117mph on street tires with a 2.2 60ft

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Samuels &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">they told me with the crank and all it would be a 2.1 L ...

I was gonna slap my built b16 head on it..


The block made 239hp with a GSR head would that hp all motor run good times in the 1/4?? I was told it would give me turbo car a run for its money i ran a 12.2 at 117mph on street tires with a 2.2 60ft </TD></TR></TABLE>

No way u got like 160hp more than he does

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by booscivic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

No way u got like 160hp more than he does</TD></TR></TABLE>

Those guys probably meant it the way most all-motor people do - gutted hatch with tuned drag suspension w/highly experienced driver VS a daily driven boosted car with stock suspension, full interior, oversized turbo, and 'johnny rice-mobile' as the driver.

A local has run low 11's all-motor with a gutted hatch, full drag setup, oem sleeve b20/vtec pushing 268whp last time he checked. There's also be many people putting 600whp through stock sleeves when boosted (well-tuned & race gas).

But for $2500 for an assembled, sleeved shortblock - its no worse than the alternative. $900+ for sleeves, $200-700 for a ls or gsr block w/crank, &gt;$750 pistons/rods, then a few bones for it to be assembled. Due to casting flaws, unremoved flashing, left over chips, and currently shipped w/o being decked - I'd normally say the DART block isn't worth it. But if they've already done the tedious work, go for it.

The downside would really be the crank. Big HP boosted hondas are better to rev for power, rather than run a longer stroke. If nothing else, you can run a laggier turbo. It all depends on your goals.

 

It may be a tall deck block.You may run into some clearance issues depending on the car and engine mounts.Do some searching about dart blocks.They are great blocks but need some tlc to get them right.

 

if your not looking to make crazy power , just have a stock block sleeved or just run stock sleeves , I have a dart block and after seeing what can be done on stock sleeves Iam kinda pissed I bought it , lol

 

Is that block being built at brauning?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B18C1CYA &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">if your not looking to make crazy power , just have a stock block sleeved or just run stock sleeves , I have a dart block and after seeing what can be done on stock sleeves Iam kinda pissed I bought it , lol </TD></TR></TABLE>\\yea, i wouldnt pay the money for dart, theres no point besides being able to say you have one