Well i think its about time for a rebuild since im not going to be driving it for the next few months tell i get back to the states. Heres the Plans and so Far how much in parts:

H.O.P. Head w/o Valve Cover - 1580
JDM IM - 229
Skunk2 70MM TB - 292
JDM Header - 450
JDM Lower Heat Shield - 50
JDM Upper Heat Shield - 50
JDM ITR Header Bracket 98 spec - 20
JDM Valve Cover - 160
JDM OS Pistons w/ rings - 330
New Water/Oil Pump - 200
Hamp Oil Filer - 70 (10 pack)
Mugen Baffle Pan - 270
Mugen Head Gasket - 140
RC 310CC Saturated - 290
Samco Rad Hose - 90
Mugen Thermo/Fan Switch - 130
ARP Head Studs - 150
T1R Resonator Test Pipe(JDM)/T1R Exhaust - 990
Import Builders I-Beam Ultra Light - 400

Roughtly 6K + 2k - 3k from IB for Mild Head/IM Port/Polish, Port Matching IM/EM to Head and IM to TB, Fully Blue Print and Balanced.

Reason for new head is the ****** that sold me the R from MO said it was in california smog condition wasnt. Head bolt rusted to header had to be machined and refitted. Might as well gow ith brand new head with a complete engine rebuild. Car still has a/c. p/s has been removed and breather system has been installed. Once i get the motor finally rebuild and dyno'd with hondata s300. Planning on either JDM Interior Conversion or JDM HID Front End conversion both are about the same price. Just need to fall one way.

Just opening this up for opions if i can go a better way on rebuilding. Im not rebuilding for power gains mainly for stock performace. Trying to keep in Stock/JDM. Thanks.

Gimme a or

Thanks
Christopher

 

sounds like a bunch of wasted money to me....

 

Im no real expert but I know that there are some things on your list that you can do without.

With the amount of money that you are spending you can order a spoon motor
http://www.bulletproofautomoti...=4556

But anyways my motor is at 60,000 miles right now and at 100k I want to rebuild. I currently am saving money little by little for a rebuild should the motor need it. So I searched and found a great rebuild example.

The Plan
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1772884

The build
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread/1813588

Im not going to do the exact build as BabyNSX but use it as a guide.

Thanks BabyNSX for the example you gave us
Well I hope these links helped you out.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by chad &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">sounds like a bunch of wasted money to me....

</TD></TR></TABLE>

x2

Glad someone said what I was thinking.

 

wow thats the cheapest i have ever seen a spoon motor for. deals i have seen want like 6.5k or 7k buying new motor can drop my costs by a few grands thanks for the link. Plus this would make the turn around time even quicker.

Thanks

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by cltitus &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Well i think its about time for a rebuild since im not going to be driving it for the next few months tell i get back to the states. Heres the Plans and so Far how much in parts:

H.O.P. Head w/o Valve Cover - 1580 use your stock and get it ported and refreshed, i read below as well, shouldn't be that hard of a fix
JDM IM - 229 use stock and get it ported
Skunk2 70MM TB - 292 use stock and get it bored
JDM Header - 450 used for about $150-$250
JDM Lower Heat Shield - 50 why?
JDM Upper Heat Shield - 50 why?
JDM ITR Header Bracket 98 spec - 20
JDM Valve Cover - 160 nothing wrong with some bling if your oem is bad
JDM OS Pistons w/ rings - 330 ebay for $260 shipped
New Water/Oil Pump - 200 you can get it for about $150 from baranco
Hamp Oil Filer - 70 (10 pack)
Mugen Baffle Pan - 270 im told, not needed for street car
Mugen Head Gasket - 140
RC 310CC Saturated - 290
Samco Rad Hose - 90 nothing wrong with stock
Mugen Thermo/Fan Switch - 130 nothing worng with stock
ARP Head Studs - 150
T1R Resonator Test Pipe(JDM)/T1R Exhaust - 990 i think your pricing is a bit off
Import Builders I-Beam Ultra Light - 400 stock is fine for your build

Roughtly 6K + 2k - 3k from IB for Mild Head/IM Port/Polish, Port Matching IM/EM to Head and IM to TB, Fully Blue Print and Balanced.

Reason for new head is the ****** that sold me the R from MO said it was in california smog condition wasnt. Head bolt rusted to header had to be machined and refitted. Might as well gow ith brand new head with a complete engine rebuild. Car still has a/c. p/s has been removed and breather system has been installed. Once i get the motor finally rebuild and dyno'd with hondata s300. Planning on either JDM Interior Conversion or JDM HID Front End conversion both are about the same price. Just need to fall one way.

Just opening this up for opions if i can go a better way on rebuilding. Im not rebuilding for power gains mainly for stock performace. Trying to keep in Stock/JDM. Thanks.

Gimme a or

Thanks
Christopher</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

Mugen Thermostat and Fan switch will make your car run too cold on the street

 

The more I get slapped in the face for not taking a step back in realizing how many other cheaper ways there are. Sorry minds not in the right mind set. To much stress so much time.

BTW 3 months tell im back in the usa

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by chad &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">sounds like a bunch of wasted money to me....</TD></TR></TABLE>

^ My sentiments exactly.

For the price you're going to spend on this OEM engine, you could have a 230whp all motor monster... Which would be just as reliable. Just think about it before you waste the better part of your quarterly pay.