is there a big difference between the 4pt bolt in and the welded in one? like..safety issue, weight, etc? also..is the price the same? i think i saw like 380 for it but not sure if it was for the bolt in or the weld in. any info is appreciated ..thanks.

 

ok flame suit ready, this is my opinion, a bolt in bar just adds weight. period. i think all bars/ cages should be welded in. but thats just my o.o2

 

bolt in is for looks more than anything...if you want any kind of structural integrity or gain in rigidity it should be welded in...look at it this way...how far does a weld move compared to how far something bolted in shear moves? exactly, weld it.....if you can't weld take it to someone who can weld...if you can't weld very well (and yes it's possible to have "good looking" mig and/or tig welds and not have them hold up worth ****.) then you may as well bolt it in cuz it wont do anything anyway...also have it tig'd most places if you're running like 10.99 or better in the 1/4 require a full cage and it has to be tig welded...i just put a 4pt. cage in my 5th gen 4 door and i love it...i built it myself and did it so i could retain full use of the backseats and i even have sparco 4pt. harnesses that are bolted in correctly (not straight down to the floor) and it still doesnt affect my back seat useage. i'll get some pictures of it if you want to see an example.

 

well..the one im looking into buying is a bolt in (cheap and from a friend of a firned)..and i was thinking of welding it in anyways since i figured weld is way more better than bolt in. but i just needed to see if welding it would even make a difference. it also comes with a harness bar so its perfect. thanks guys

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 1jdmferio &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">bolt in is for looks more than anything...if you want any kind of structural integrity or gain in rigidity it should be welded in...look at it this way...how far does a weld move compared to how far something bolted in shear moves? exactly, weld it.....if you can't weld take it to someone who can weld...if you can't weld very well (and yes it's possible to have "good looking" mig and/or tig welds and not have them hold up worth ****.) then you may as well bolt it in cuz it wont do anything anyway...also have it tig'd most places if you're running like 10.99 or better in the 1/4 require a full cage and it has to be tig welded...i just put a 4pt. cage in my 5th gen 4 door and i love it...i built it myself and did it so i could retain full use of the backseats and i even have sparco 4pt. harnesses that are bolted in correctly (not straight down to the floor) and it still doesnt affect my back seat useage. i'll get some pictures of it if you want to see an example.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Welding is only as good as the welder.

 

I have a weld in cage. $2200 but, I'm hitting 130 on the main straight at summit so, I want to be able to survive an accident. I drive it on the street too. Not the wisest thing but, what the hell. I'm harnessed in on the street too.

A 4 pt's just a roll bar. With proper footers (big assed steel plates on the top and bottom) they're fine to protect you in a not-too-violent rollover. Most Miata and S2000 roll bars are bolt in's. If it ties into the strut tower in the back, you might even see some structural improvements. If it's just cosmetic, it doesn't really matter does it?

If I got a bolt on, I'd want a harness bar too. When I totalled my R at the track, the worst part was that the seats just collapsed like they were made of paper. A harness bar would have at least kept me sitting up straight.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by solbrothers &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">cage on the street FTMFL!!!

get a CUSCO... that is like !!100 MaDd JdM hOrSePoWeR yO!!

this has been discussed in other forums like the roadracing, drag racing, appearance + cosmetic, welding + fabrication and others. search</TD></TR></TABLE>

someone please tell me what FTMFL means..i have no idea.

tried seaching..what would i search for? roll bar weld? roll bar bolt in?

 

for the mother expletive loss

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 1jdmferio &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">bolt in is for looks more than anything...if you want any kind of structural integrity or gain in rigidity it should be welded in...look at it this way...how far does a weld move compared to how far something bolted in shear moves? exactly, weld it.....if you can't weld take it to someone who can weld...if you can't weld very well (and yes it's possible to have "good looking" mig and/or tig welds and not have them hold up worth ****.) then you may as well bolt it in cuz it wont do anything anyway...also have it tig'd most places if you're running like 10.99 or better in the 1/4 require a full cage and it has to be tig welded...i just put a 4pt. cage in my 5th gen 4 door and i love it...i built it myself and did it so i could retain full use of the backseats and i even have sparco 4pt. harnesses that are bolted in correctly (not straight down to the floor) and it still doesnt affect my back seat useage. i'll get some pictures of it if you want to see an example.</TD></TR></TABLE>

i want to see pics cuz i dont believe u...well actually i do but still, psp.

 

hahaha thanks

 

yes, weld-in is better.. but, only retards would say a bolt-on roll bar is useless without an explanation that goes farther then:

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 1jdmferio &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">how far does a weld move compared to how far something bolted in shear moves? exactly, weld it.....</TD></TR></TABLE>

if you think one way or another thats ok, as I just said weld-in is better. but your statement is more like apples vs oranges.

oh, and it doesnt make any sense.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 1jdmferio &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> it has to be tig welded..</TD></TR></TABLE>

No it doesn't. Chromoly has to be tig welded, and mild steel can be mig'd. The bolt in is for more than looks. I prefer bolting to the floor rather than welding because of the thin floor. Then extra plates welded to the rockers.
The difference between the autopower vs (say) an S&W 4pt is that the autopowers rear bars will be bolted to the main hoop where the s&w will be welded. Of course the price is different too. The autopower will be about twice as much.

Get the s&w and bolt to the floor, weld the rest up. If you're going to be doing anything serious, order extra plates and weld the floor plates to the rockers.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by solbrothers &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">cage on the street FTMFL!!!

get a CUSCO... that is like !!100 MaDd JdM hOrSePoWeR yO!!

this has been discussed in other forums like the roadracing, drag racing, appearance + cosmetic, welding + fabrication and others. search</TD></TR></TABLE>

If you don't have anything useful to provide, don't talk. He said a Roll Bar not a roll cage. There is a difference.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mr abstract &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">well..the one im looking into buying is a bolt in (cheap and from a friend of a firned)..and i was thinking of welding it in anyways since i figured weld is way more better than bolt in. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Bolt it into place, and then either weld it yourself, or take it somewhere to get welded.


<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 1jdmferio &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">bolt in is for looks more than anything...if you want any kind of structural integrity or gain in rigidity it should be welded in...look at it this way...how far does a weld move compared to how far something bolted in shear moves? exactly, weld it.....if you can't weld take it to someone who can weld...if you can't weld very well (and yes it's possible to have "good looking" mig and/or tig welds and not have them hold up worth ****.) then you may as well bolt it in cuz it wont do anything anyway...also have it tig'd most places if you're running like 10.99 or better in the 1/4 require a full cage and it has to be tig welded...i just put a 4pt. cage in my 5th gen 4 door and i love it...i built it myself and did it so i could retain full use of the backseats and i even have sparco 4pt. harnesses that are bolted in correctly (not straight down to the floor) and it still doesnt affect my back seat useage. i'll get some pictures of it if you want to see an example.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I'm willing to bet that you don't have much welding experience.


Here's a hint, unless it's say, over 3/8" penetration isn't going to be an issue. When you're doing pipe welds on a pipe that's over 1/2" you have to cut the edge at an angle, and then do a TIG root pass, then either do MIG or SMAW weld passes over the TIG pass. Even that is debatable because you can use 6010 3/32" rods for the root pass. Moral of the story, TIG is for bling.

 

Speaking from personal experience of having the Autopower 4 pt street and strip versions.. one with the cross bar and one without.

Yes, you deffinately get some chassis stiffening. I was happy with the results I was after at the time. BUT you have a +60lb tradeoff. I was into autocross, with a factory stock EH3 with full interior and im a big guy. I didnt care.
If your worried about vehicle weight, there are plenty of other companies that use better lighter materials but your going to pay a grip more for the chomoloy tubing.
If you are thinking about a rollbar for safety reasons, weld in is a must.

 

I definitely felt some stiffening effect when I installed my bolt in autopower bar. Theres no doubt that this thing would hold up in a rollover but if I were doing real racing I'd weld it in.