so i just bought ITR calipers.

i currently have the rare-ish 91 ex brakes,(10.2'') which rock. i can mount the ITR calipers and 11 rotors on them (redrilled rotors) that would be amazing, but probably wouldnt fit my 14'' drag slicks (bottlecap wheels)

or, i can sell my fully rebuilt ex setup (new oe bearing, calipers, etc), get some regular ef brakes, mount the ITR calipers on them with 10.2'' rotors. this setup would be great too, and should clear my drag wheels, but still be better than the ex brakes (bigger calipers). this would be the cheapest way out (ex setup sells for good money, and stockers are basically free) and still be good, but only marginally better than what i have.

should i go all out, or go budget wise? both setups would be great, but the full 11'' rotors would be enough for me to pretty much never cook at the road course.

both setups would involve milling/maching the calipers, etc..i know what needs tobe done. both have been done by other people too, so i know it works.

i'm leaning towards the wild side, as you really cant have too much braking power i guess, but do i really need it? i'm not sure. i havent pushed the limits of my ex's yet, and i really dont want to. i'm running hawk hp+ for pads right now, not too wild.

BTW, the car is a 300+ hp 90 hatch, usually 250+ whp at the road course.

 

250-300 whp on a track; i can say with fair certainty, you need a min of 11" brake rotors. and dual piston calipers (legend, or nsx) would be preferrable.

thats what i have on my h1 car, and at the end of a really hard 30 min race, they are hot and bothered!

and i have 206 whp!

todd

 

i like my 11" x 28mm legend gs/nsx rotors. the ITRs are 23mm thick, the S2K/Lude VTEC/accord V6 & wagon ones (all the same as Mugen Active Gates) are 25mm, for reference.

Adam, your car is light and caged, but i'd still run the 11" x 28mm rotors on it, just because you not only have the hp, but the tq to really pull you out of the corners. your car pulls really hard. i'd also invest in some cooling ducts and the new Cobalt pads to handle more heat (than the HP+).

my last time at the track i lost (braking) traction at the end of the (long) straight at Grattan (rain) @ ~100mph (slow car/driver). i was very lucky. although it had nothing to do with the brakes, i now take all reasonable precautionary measures to ensure that i minimize my chances of having something of that sort happening again.

 

hmm....yeah, you guys are probably right.

when i had around 200 whp, i was running a good condition (earls lines, super blue, hawk hp pads) stock brake system

it was scary. got hot after about 10 hard laps (wasnt too experience then), and would INTSTANTLY get squishy

it did teach me a bit about how to use the brakes as little as possible, but it was a hard and probably dangerous lesson to learn.

with the ITR calipers, am i stuck running the 23 mm rotors? is that what the number "23t" on the caliper bracket references?

on the accord wagon caliper, it says "25t" (or so i've read)

slofu, who are you? seems like i've met ya...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Todd Reid &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">250-300 whp on a track; i can say with fair certainty, you need a min of 11" brake rotors. and dual piston calipers (legend, or nsx) would be preferrable.

thats what i have on my h1 car, and at the end of a really hard 30 min race, they are hot and bothered!

and i have 206 whp!

todd</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yes, Todd's rotors are glowing at the end of the straight at CMP. I have many pictures of them.

Speaking of which Todd PM your address so I can finally get those to you.

 

get the 28t brackets to fit the 28mm rotors. you don't need the 2-piston calipers if there are others which can accommodate the thicker rotors between the (new) pads. (you can mill/grind, etc., but it's always better to do it properly).

while you're at it, swap on the 10" ep3/rsx rear brakes for proper bias with the same prop valve. -yeah, you could compensate by using a more aggressive pad in the rear, but in your case i'd take more brake all around.

i'm stoked about the new pad compounds. the temp ranges are so wide that you can virtually use track pads safely on a dd; you just pick how much bite you want (although what's good for R comps is likely too harsh for street tires).

this should help me with my plan to ditch my brake booster and simplify the system for more direct communication and less compliance via the diaphram (for pussies). the pedal effort won't have to be much harder with the right pad, and i'll never have to worry about the BB leaking.

 

but rear discs scare me!

the ep3/rsx brakes are mount-able onto my car?

how? never heard of that... sounds very interesting

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by redzcstandardhatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">but rear discs scare me!

the ep3/rsx brakes are mount-able onto my car?

how? never heard of that... sounds very interesting</TD></TR></TABLE>

theres a thread/how to somewhere in HT about the EP3 rear disc. but IMO i think its going to be too much rear brake torque for a lighter car such as the older civics. currantly im running DA rear disc with the incorrect prop valve (cause i wanted to try it) and its too much rear brake. with the correct one but larger rotors i think it will be much of the same thing. i dont htink the increased brake torque in teh rear or thebetter cooling from a larger rotor is necessary in teh rear.
-spenc...blue rear rotors after every session

&lt;thread jack&gt;if anyone is using the 11" vw coraddo rotors with a wilwood kit, i have extra rotors for you. someone please take them off my hand &lt;thread jack/&gt;

 

well, i'm going to look into the rsx/ep upgrade, but not yet...i just dropped some money last year on the aluminum rear drums, etc...but discs would be nice.

 

I checked on the Corrado rotors this weekend. They will not fit over the hubs on my EF. The hat diameter is much to small.

 

discs = easy maintenance.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by turboteener &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I checked on the Corrado rotors this weekend. They will not fit over the hubs on my EF. The hat diameter is much to small. </TD></TR></TABLE>
thats the problem i had too. they dont fit over my EX hubs and the rotor offset is incorrect for the 'oem 11" ' set up. but they work (and go with) the non-ex hubs and the wilwood 11" kit for the EF and possibly DA

 

good info here, thanks guys

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by slofu &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">get the 28t brackets to fit the 28mm rotors. you don't need the 2-piston calipers if there are others which can accommodate the thicker rotors between the (new) pads. (you can mill/grind, etc., but it's always better to do it properly).
</TD></TR></TABLE>

I'd like more info on 28t setup for our Hondas??

It's more weight but well worth it when you don't want to roll big rotors and 17s at the track.. .

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Lo-Buck EF &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

&lt;thread jack&gt;if anyone is using the 11" vw coraddo rotors with a wilwood kit, i have extra rotors for you. someone please take them off my hand &lt;thread jack/&gt;</TD></TR></TABLE>

Pm'd about the rotors. Wouldn't mind a back-up set.

OP, I'd go with the 11" set-up and just get different wheels. Unless you plan on doing a lot of drag racing, I don't think I'd let a set of 14" wheels dictate better braking for the road course (unless there are rules to be followed for a certain class)

 

yeah, i'll most likely do it.. the calipers are coming , and i'm going to compile a few other things to set them up, then just run the 10.2'' for a while, this spring, use up the slicks a bit more, and switch when i take it to the track.