im not sure what happened but my heat only works on the highest setting (90 da)
i was told it may need a resistor or something but ive decided to come to H-T and find out some more before i make my final decision. anyone have this problem? or already tackled it ?

 

i had same problem in my 94 GSR obd1. only worked when set to "4". and it was full power. pissed me the expletive off, especially living where we do... dont know what was wrong with it though sorry lol

 

heh, yeah living in mass is definately not a summer day picnic lol! i hate the cold weather. dammit why cant i live in cali or florida?

 

yep, sounds like your blower resistor is dead, which is #7 below:

 

blower resistor took a ****.easy and inexpensive fix

ILBB

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Rhythmsnewsn &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">im not sure what happened but my heat only works on the highest setting (90 da)
i was told it may need a resistor or something but ive decided to come to H-T and find out some more before i make my final decision. anyone have this problem? or already tackled it ?</TD></TR></TABLE>

It is most likey your brushes in the electric motor are worn down so that they dont touch as well anymore. It's an easy fix, the bushes are the black carbon worn down blocks which have un-shielded copper wire attached to them, then the other end of the copper wire is saughter to the "+" and "-" terminals inside the motor casing.

Also, it is possible that your copper contact points where the brushes make contact that actually makes the motor may be worn down, but that should not be a problem. While you have the motor apart you may want to clean the small groves between the contact points. If anything conductive is between the contact pads on the spindle it may be linking two toghter or maybe even a majority of them could be considered one. Its import to clean between them.

When you put the motor back toghter dont forget to re-grease the bearings inside it and dont forget any plastic washers (no matter how damaged)

As for brush replace ment, you can buy or find off another motor the correct brush pad or brush and copper wire. When I rebuilt mine I used two used brushes off a donar motor from an eletric car. My copper contact pads were quite worn down. Most likey your new brushes will outlast your contact pads if you replace them with new ones.

 

I work at Honda and the most common thing to fail when it comes to this is the heater blower resistor as already mentioned. We rarely replace the heater blower motor, and when we do, it is generally only on the Accords

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Dealer Leaf &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

It is most likey your brushes in the electric motor are worn down so that they dont touch as well anymore. It's an easy fix, the bushes are the black carbon worn down blocks which have un-shielded copper wire attached to them, then the other end of the copper wire is saughter to the "+" and "-" terminals inside the motor casing.

Also, it is possible that your copper contact points where the brushes make contact that actually makes the motor may be worn down, but that should not be a problem. While you have the motor apart you may want to clean the small groves between the contact points. If anything conductive is between the contact pads on the spindle it may be linking two toghter or maybe even a majority of them could be considered one. Its import to clean between them.

When you put the motor back toghter dont forget to re-grease the bearings inside it and dont forget any plastic washers (no matter how damaged)

As for brush replace ment, you can buy or find off another motor the correct brush pad or brush and copper wire. When I rebuilt mine I used two used brushes off a donar motor from an eletric car. My copper contact pads were quite worn down. Most likey your new brushes will outlast your contact pads if you replace them with new ones.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Actually no, the resistor is the most likely problem as mentioned above (which is a problem with the blower motor, not the heater core). Same thing happened on my old 89 Camry, which used the same type of resistor assembly as Hondas do. The problem is these are wire-wound resistors that get VERY hot, which is why they are placed in an air duct, to help cool them down.

The tell-tale sign is the fact that it only works on the highest setting. If you apply 12 volts to the blower motor, it will run at the fastest speed. The fan speed switch uses those resistors to reduce the current across the blower motor and reduce its speed. To make continuity on each fan speed setting, the current goes through from 1 to 3 resistors. Setting 4 (high speed) is the only setting that makes a direct connection, without passing through any of the resistors.

I remember back in the day, I went to several junk yards and never could find a resistor assembly that was fully intact (it was a common problem on the older Camrys), so I ended up buying some replacement resistors from Radio Shack and fixing it myself. Unfortunately they no longer sell the type of resistors needed to fix this part, so it's better to just buy a new one from a dealer.

 

Thanks guys!

 

ah, mine only worked on high but my problem was the brushes and contact points I musta been one of the unlucky

 

I had this problem and it was my blower motor.

 

mines dont blow crazy air, until its on the highest level. But still doesnt blow as hard as my boys ek?