My 93 Wagon is losing electrical power to, I believe, a short. I have to charge it or jump it go get it started. I drive it around and it will restart OK. The next day or well later the same day I try to start it and the battery is v. low and will only turn it over a few times. Have to jump again. I have no trouble codes and I can hear the fuel pump, main engine relay spin up and click respectively.

I have checked for voltage across the fuses and have found that the interior lights have power when keys out. I think this is how it's supposed to be. Anyway, I checked all the door elec. switches and they're OK.

Where do I go from here?

Tks,

Bob

 

what the voltage after you start the car? if it is below 14, the alternator, or regulator is going.

 

ok I just reread your first statment, and that is not as likely any more. how old is the battery though. There might be a short in one of the cells causeing it to die. I would test the battery first, then the alternator, then go from there. Cheackers can test either one. yes so can auto zone, but I find the prices, and quality is better at checker.

 

I forgot to mention that I have taken the car to Checker and had the battery and alternator checked and they're OK.

Bob

 

do the interior lights stay on with the key out? how about the trunk light. check at the battery with the key off. from the positive to the fuse block, is there a voltage draw? it seems like you will have to test it step by step. try to find the troble tree, and flow that.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mulepick &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I forgot to mention that I have taken the car to Checker and had the battery and alternator checked and they're OK.</TD></TR></TABLE>

so NOW you decide to tell the whole story;

Remove the 7.5 amp backup fuse from the underhood fuse, then put a test light between the negative cable and the battery negative post; If the light is on you have a draw.

Start pulling fuses one at a time to find out what circuit is using the juice.

Don't forget there is an underdash fuse panel as well to help narrow your search.

Then repost with the fuse number and circuit name/description and everyone here will get to make wild guesses as to the exact problem.

 

&gt;Remove the 7.5 amp backup fuse from the underhood fuse, then put a test light between the negative cable and the battery negative post; If the light is on you have a draw.

Start pulling fuses one at a time to find out what circuit is using the juice.

Don't forget there is an underdash fuse panel as well to help narrow your search.

Then repost with the fuse number and circuit name/description and everyone here will get to make wild guesses as to the exact problem. &lt;

I'll check the fuses in greater depth tomorrow and get you specific answers but... I have already checked fuses under the hood and have found a few to be "hot" like power to the radio and interior lights to name 2. These sources are "switched" of course so they wouldn't draw power unless they were "on", right? None of the underhood fuses that are not switched were hot. There was voltage between the (-) terminal and the (-) wire which is why I started hitting the fuses.

Not a smart-aleck but why does the extra 7.5 fuse need to be pulled for the tests?

Charged and started car this AM, drove it about 20 mi on the freeway, made a couple of stops and it lit right off. 6 hours later, outta juice.

Tks for help,

Bob

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mulepick &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Not a smart-aleck but why does the extra 7.5 fuse need to be pulled for the tests?</TD></TR></TABLE>You're looking for something that stays on when it's supposed to turn off. The backup fuse powers the ECU's memory & the clock & radio memories. With that fuse pulled there should be NO current draw from the battery at all.

When you check the fuses there's voltage at them... That doesn't show whether or not they are drawing current. Many systems have their switch located 'downstream' from the fuse. In fact, many systems have their switch in the ground side of the circuit.