Are manual tranmission flush's neccesary?
Do manual transmissions ever need a entire flush like that of an automatic? My 96' LX which I bought at 117,000, 2 1/2 years ago had a drain and refill of the manual trans with OEM Honda MTF. It has 170,000 on it now and am getting ready to do a drain and refill again but was wondering if the flush would be better or even if it's neccesary.
Thanks!
S
Thanks!
S
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Blamm!! »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Theres nothing to flush. No torque convertor, valve body or cooling lines. Drain and fill brother.</TD></TR></TABLE>
How often do you need to drain and fill?
I hear good things about that gm syncromesh. I do not understand how it could work. any info?
How often do you need to drain and fill?
I hear good things about that gm syncromesh. I do not understand how it could work. any info?
It should be changed every 30k, flushing is not nesacary for a manual trans, and any motor oil is fine. you can use gear oil, but it is a waist. also I don't know what friction modifiers gm uses, so I would sugest to stick with a good 5-30 motor oil, as suggested by honda.
Actually it would be Honda MTF, Manual Transmission Fluid, not 5w-30 lol. Also you should drain and refill, drive I think like 500-1000 miles then drain and refill again.
GM Synchromesh = ftw
GM Synchromesh = ftw
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TheMuffinMan »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Actually it would be Honda MTF, Manual Transmission Fluid, not 5w-30 lol. Also you should drain and refill, drive I think like 500-1000 miles then drain and refill again.
GM Synchromesh = ftw</TD></TR></TABLE>
If TheMuffinMen recommends it then that is what I will buy.
GM Synchromesh = ftw</TD></TR></TABLE>
If TheMuffinMen recommends it then that is what I will buy.
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honda used 10w30/10w40 before they brought out their own mtf, so that can be used however i would still stick with mtf. the new version of honda's manual tranny fluid is supposedly very good (green label, white cap)...might want to look into that.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by street_accord94 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">honda used 10w30/10w40 before they brought out their own mtf, so that can be used however i would still stick with mtf. the new version of honda's manual tranny fluid is supposedly very good (green label, white cap)...might want to look into that.</TD></TR></TABLE>
it is actulley for my Mazda truck. I have an accord too that is why I browse through this section.
it is actulley for my Mazda truck. I have an accord too that is why I browse through this section.
yeah I know that according to my books it says to use motor oil in 94-96, then the honda mtf in 97. the main thing is that you have oil of some sort in it. Also I dont doubt for a sec that the honda mtf is better fitted for the job. I was woundering why drain and refill it after 500-1000 miles though?
Thanks everyone for the input. I've never heard of myself do the drain and refill again after 1000 miles. What does that do?
Thanks!
Thanks!
Helps it by getting getting rid of all the old oil and any wear metals in the oil. Its like washing your hands twice. ya dig?
Per the owner's manual for my '99 LX, the transmission fluid is supposed to be changed at 90,000 miles / 6 years for normal conditions, or 30,000 / 2 years for severe conditions.
Basically there are two bolts, remove the bottom one to empty the old oil. Replace the bolt. Remove the top one and fill through that bolt's hole with a funnel until oil reaches the bottom of the hole (or oil start's coming out). Replace that bolt. You're done. The listed capacity for my '99 LX is 2.1 quarts, with 2.0 quarts being changed.
There isn’t a dipstick for this oil. If it’s at the top of the hole after you remove the upper bolt, it’s full.
I know that you’re talking about a Mazda, but for the sake of helping people with 5-speeed Accords… From a different thread:
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by The G-Man »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
…

The older stuff is in the same bottle, except with a red cap, and dark green label. The dealer may try to get you this, but tell them you want the new stuff. Don't get me wrong, the old stuff was good, but the
new stuff is much better. </TD></TR></TABLE>
I’m sure the Mazda dealership has something similar.
By the way, the price quoted to me by the dealer for changing the manual transmission fluid was $60.
Basically there are two bolts, remove the bottom one to empty the old oil. Replace the bolt. Remove the top one and fill through that bolt's hole with a funnel until oil reaches the bottom of the hole (or oil start's coming out). Replace that bolt. You're done. The listed capacity for my '99 LX is 2.1 quarts, with 2.0 quarts being changed.
There isn’t a dipstick for this oil. If it’s at the top of the hole after you remove the upper bolt, it’s full.
I know that you’re talking about a Mazda, but for the sake of helping people with 5-speeed Accords… From a different thread:
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by The G-Man »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
…

The older stuff is in the same bottle, except with a red cap, and dark green label. The dealer may try to get you this, but tell them you want the new stuff. Don't get me wrong, the old stuff was good, but the
new stuff is much better. </TD></TR></TABLE>
I’m sure the Mazda dealership has something similar.
By the way, the price quoted to me by the dealer for changing the manual transmission fluid was $60.
I stopped by my Honda dealership, he said they didn't have any of the white cap. What's the deal with the white cap one again? New formulation? When did it come out?
For what it's worth, the red cap was something like $6.05 before tax per quart, 2.0 quarts needed for a 6th gen.
What type of funnel do you use to get the oil in? Will a funnel small enough to service automatic transmission dipstick tubes fit into the upper bolt's hole? (I've not actually seen these bolts yet)
For what it's worth, the red cap was something like $6.05 before tax per quart, 2.0 quarts needed for a 6th gen.
What type of funnel do you use to get the oil in? Will a funnel small enough to service automatic transmission dipstick tubes fit into the upper bolt's hole? (I've not actually seen these bolts yet)
[QUOTE=Heat
What type of funnel do you use to get the oil in? Will a funnel small enough to service automatic transmission dipstick tubes fit into the upper bolt's hole? (I've not actually seen these bolts yet)[/QUOTE]
i know on my 92 i had to rig up a little hose and run it to the hole and then fill it that way..
What type of funnel do you use to get the oil in? Will a funnel small enough to service automatic transmission dipstick tubes fit into the upper bolt's hole? (I've not actually seen these bolts yet)[/QUOTE]
i know on my 92 i had to rig up a little hose and run it to the hole and then fill it that way..
I used royal purple syn, with lucas syn additive, and not so good. both were syn. gear oils, but it over heated my trans. with in three month, of mostly normal driveing, I had heat cracks devlobing all over the trans housing. I think it was more the lucas then the royal purple, but think I will stick with either motor oil, or now switching to honda mtf in the trans I got from the junk yard, and rebuilt.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hondaccord »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I used royal purple syn, with lucas syn additive, and not so good. both were syn. gear oils, but it over heated my trans. with in three month, of mostly normal driveing, I had heat cracks devlobing all over the trans housing. I think it was more the lucas then the royal purple, but think I will stick with either motor oil, or now switching to honda mtf in the trans I got from the junk yard, and rebuilt.</TD></TR></TABLE>
good info
i was just currious, because after i rebuilt my tranny and added my phantom grip i used mobil one syn. and i havent noticed any problems... and i have been pritty hard on it, i was just currious thanks man.
good info
i was just currious, because after i rebuilt my tranny and added my phantom grip i used mobil one syn. and i havent noticed any problems... and i have been pritty hard on it, i was just currious thanks man.
Oil additives are a hoax and can cause more damage than they claim they prevent. Oils today already have conditioners in them... Of course I've never tested this first hand, but I did do a ton of research on the subject for a project. Give it a once over via Google and you should easily find a lot of information about it.
I forgot who showed me, but after I had add that crap to the last trans, and engien(saddly to say) they posted a oil forum, that had shown how that stuff is actualy bad for your motor, or trans. next time your at a parts store with one of those lucas oil set up go to it, turn the normal oil as fast as you can, yeah it looks like it could desier more oil on the top gears. then do the same to the mixture, wow it sticks realy good all the way up! did you see that though, air bubles all over in the moveing oil. not good, the air traps the heat, and will cause probs
I have heard that Lucas additive is really bad stuff because it tskes away from the anti foaming agents in the primary oil you are using. Additives should never be necessary unless you are out of other options.
I really dont know how you can tell which oil is better, w/o a dyno .. and even still .. it cant measure endurance or wear rate over time.
I have been running Castrol Syntec 10w30 in my H22 Accord for about 2+ years. So far so good. And ya I beleive in the 2nd tranny fluide change as well to make sure its clean oil through-out.
I have been running Castrol Syntec 10w30 in my H22 Accord for about 2+ years. So far so good. And ya I beleive in the 2nd tranny fluide change as well to make sure its clean oil through-out.



