I was just wondering about this kit from Password JDM. It is a JDM EF rear disk swap that does not include any brake lines or an e-brake cable, Do I have to have these or can I use my old ones?http://www.passwordjdm.com/pro...D=236

 

I would get some disc brakes from a CRX Si or Integra and save yourself a lot of money. However if you get these from Password, you will need to purchase rear lines for CRX Si or Integra and with a hatch you will use the Integra e-brake cables if you have a CRX you will have to use CRX Si e-brake cables.

 

yep, i've done two teg swaps on ef's every thing swaps out easy.

 

listen to these guys i have the teg rear brakes and i love it. only thing is that on my crx the teg brake cables were too long so i had to find some si brake cables. thats the only problem that i encountered.

 

integra ebrake cables do fit though...

but using the crx si ones are much more easier to install and it fits much better

 

True i have integra swap...100 bucks saves alot of money and time...just go right in...the hardest thing is the ebrake lines...

 

It's hard to find teg and Si parts around here, The junk yards think they are worth alot of money and don't want to part any of them out. If they did I gaurentee it would cost me around the same price.

 

Are you figuring in shipping? Shipping those parts is going to be huge.

 

Yeah it's like another 90 dollars GROUND, maybe I'll try harder to look around here.

 

I'm swaping them out for performance. If you saw my car you would know that looks aren't that important to me.

 

I didn’t notice any real difference, I swapped the disks, portioning valve, and ex master cylinder. I put on all new pads and discs. It is muck easier to work with now. That’s about all I would say I gained.

 

I think for now I'm just going to order some better pads and some slotted rotors.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sohcvtec91hatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'm swaping them out for performance. If you saw my car you would know that looks aren't that important to me.</TD></TR></TABLE>

im not trying to be negative but honestly in our cars there is no reason to have rear disks unless you're going for the look.

if anything upgrade the front braking if you're about performance and just get some good shoes for the rear

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bag &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

im not trying to be negative but honestly in our cars there is no reason to have rear disks unless you're going for the look.

if anything upgrade the front braking if you're about performance and just get some good shoes for the rear</TD></TR></TABLE>

This is so true. If I could do it over again I would not spend my money on the rear disc swap. I would spend else where.

I also road race my car so I know a thing or two about the performance of the disc vs drum with upgraded front brakes and stock front brakes.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CRX Toad &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

This is so true. If I could do it over again I would not spend my money on the rear disc swap. I would spend else where.

I also road race my car so I know a thing or two about the performance of the disc vs drum with upgraded front brakes and stock front brakes. </TD></TR></TABLE>

since you road race, you probably also dislike the wieght of the rear disks ?

so many people end up converting back to drums,and getting some new 84' crx hf drums for rear (they weight almost nothing)..

 

As mentioned, you can get a rear disc setup much cheaper than what is listed on that site. They want $180 to begin with, and then you have to add shipping (they're large and heavy), new pads, new rotors, remanufactured calipers if they're bad, plus soft lines and e-brake cables (the drum lines and cables use different fittings).

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sohcvtec91hatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'm swaping them out for performance. If you saw my car you would know that looks aren't that important to me.</TD></TR></TABLE>
There is no performance difference.

In fact, the 9.5" discs with 7CLP13S calipers weigh about 8lbs more per side than drums - so you gain 16lbs of unsprung weight. In addition, the drum e-brake functions much better than the disc e-brake. Rear calipers are also very expensive (remans are almost $95 per side even with a core exchange).

 

ok since we're on the subject anyway what would be the best setup?

front brake pads - XXXX
rear shoes - xxxxxx
rear drums - 84 hf?
brake lines - stainless?
rotors- stock or xxxx?
master cylinder - stock or xxx

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bag &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ok since we're on the subject anyway what would be the best setup?

front brake pads - XXXX
rear shoes - xxxxxx
rear drums - 84 hf?
brake lines - stainless?
rotors- stock or xxxx?
master cylinder - stock or xxx
</TD></TR></TABLE>
"Best" for what?

What car?

What purpose?

Weight? Power?

What is/are the problem(s) with the current brake system that you want to address?

 

for road racing events.

89 crx si

power -stock ..it has full interior and a roll cage so its alittle heavy.

no problems with the braking system really untill you push it..i got the hawk pads on front,and some raybesto rear shoes,stock everything else.

brakes get real mushy after a couple laps

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bag &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">for road racing events.</TD></TR></TABLE>
What class?

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">89 crx si

power -stock ..it has full interior and a roll cage so its alittle heavy.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I'll take a wild stab and guess around 2300lbs with driver at worst? That's not heavy.

Stock means no modifications. 108hp at the flywheel.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">no problems with the braking system really untill you push it..i got the hawk pads on front,and some raybesto rear shoes,stock everything else.</TD></TR></TABLE>
So what are the problems?

 

I say do the Teg swap or try and find a '91 CRX Si swap. I bought the Si rear swap from a dude of craigslist for like 100, complete with MC, Prop. valve, lower control arms, lines, everything.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bag &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

since you road race, you probably also dislike the wieght of the rear disks ?

so many people end up converting back to drums,and getting some new 84' crx hf drums for rear (they weight almost nothing)..</TD></TR></TABLE>

Correct. I save all my parts incase I want to put them back on.

Also Targa knows his stuff. Listen to him as he is very credible also.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bag &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">brakes get real mushy after a couple laps</TD></TR></TABLE>
You must have made a ninja edit, because I missed this.

Does the pedal get mushy? Or does the pedal stay firm but the car just doesn't slow down?

If the pedal gets mushy and stays that way even after cooling down, you're probably boiling fluid. What fluid are you using, and when was the last time the hydraulic system was flushed?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Targa250R &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
You must have made a ninja edit, because I missed this.

Does the pedal get mushy? Or does the pedal stay firm but the car just doesn't slow down?

If the pedal gets mushy and stays that way even after cooling down, you're probably boiling fluid. What fluid are you using, and when was the last time the hydraulic system was flushed?</TD></TR></TABLE>

i actually just bled the system about 5000 miles ago,,i used the dot 4 instead of the dot 3 and have noticed a difference when pushing the car hard....

im sorry i didnt mean the pedal gets mushy,,more that the brakes get wierd..i guess its brake fade?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sohcvtec91hatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I think for now I'm just going to order some better pads and some slotted rotors.</TD></TR></TABLE>
i would say dont do that untill u have the setup... i literally just finnished mine a few days ago... i love it... the first time that i pressed the pedal hard it felt as if the car was pulling my eyes outa my sockets..

dont buy the **** from password.. i even called them up as well as a few other companies... they all want like 75-100 for shipping alone... BS!!! u just gotta wait for the right time & opportunity to come along & smack u in the face