Probem with my 92 eg hatch
So I just got my 92 hatch on the 24th and everything was going good tell two days later when sitting at idle and wither my head blew or head gasket I lost a full radiator full of collant into the exuast. So I go home pull the head off the motor and discover that they put a 8 valve head on top of a 16 valve bottom end is this common to do or not im woundering if this is why it blew casue I put on a 16 valve top end now and the motor lays over on itself in second gear thru 5th whys this.
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Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 10,443
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From: Rochester, New York -> Santa Clara, CA
I don't have anything really to say but there's one thing I did pick up on:
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by deadline »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">dump that motor and buy d16z6 single cam vtec or just swap it into a b-series engine
problem solve</TD></TR></TABLE>
That's about the worst/useless piece of **** that somebody deemed as "help" I've ever seen anybody give on honda-tech. Kudos to you.
@ OP:
If the timing belt didn't have any issues (aka. it was timed right) then it shouldn't have mattered - though that was a cheesey move on their part. Unless the compression was off the wall on either end - which I don't think it was.
Though generally headgaskets don't blow at idle.
If it's blown, then you should send the head off to be milled/honed (straightened the expletive out) b/c it's probably warped to ****.
Though with that chinsey *** head I wouldn't even worry about it. Get a 16v head, would probably run a Z6, Z1, or B7 head depending on what the bottom end is (you haven't told us a trim, nor motor). That and a new headgasket and you'll be ready to roll. Either that or swap the motor out completely and forget anything was wrong.
You can buy a D series motor w/o the tranny (you don't need the tranny), but with or without the tranny for circum 200 bucks in good condition, or probably less.
So it depends on what you want, and how much you're willing to spend.
If they dropped an 8 valve head on there, god knows what other corners they cut, I say swap the motor and don't worry about it again, though it's really up to you.
So:
- Goal(s)
- Reliability? (Do you have to drive 200 miles to work each day? Might make a difference)
- How deep your pockets are
- What kind of trim/what kind of motor do you have (engine stamp is to the left of the exhaust header/manifold and down a bit, right next to the tranny, should look something along the signs of D15B7 or B18C1 (numbers/letters probably different, probably a D series (D####) motor)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by deadline »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">dump that motor and buy d16z6 single cam vtec or just swap it into a b-series engine
problem solve</TD></TR></TABLE>That's about the worst/useless piece of **** that somebody deemed as "help" I've ever seen anybody give on honda-tech. Kudos to you.

@ OP:
If the timing belt didn't have any issues (aka. it was timed right) then it shouldn't have mattered - though that was a cheesey move on their part. Unless the compression was off the wall on either end - which I don't think it was.
Though generally headgaskets don't blow at idle.
If it's blown, then you should send the head off to be milled/honed (straightened the expletive out) b/c it's probably warped to ****.
Though with that chinsey *** head I wouldn't even worry about it. Get a 16v head, would probably run a Z6, Z1, or B7 head depending on what the bottom end is (you haven't told us a trim, nor motor). That and a new headgasket and you'll be ready to roll. Either that or swap the motor out completely and forget anything was wrong.
You can buy a D series motor w/o the tranny (you don't need the tranny), but with or without the tranny for circum 200 bucks in good condition, or probably less.
So it depends on what you want, and how much you're willing to spend.
If they dropped an 8 valve head on there, god knows what other corners they cut, I say swap the motor and don't worry about it again, though it's really up to you.
So:
- Goal(s)
- Reliability? (Do you have to drive 200 miles to work each day? Might make a difference)
- How deep your pockets are
- What kind of trim/what kind of motor do you have (engine stamp is to the left of the exhaust header/manifold and down a bit, right next to the tranny, should look something along the signs of D15B7 or B18C1 (numbers/letters probably different, probably a D series (D####) motor)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Shaw14 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">So I go home pull the head off the motor and discover that they put a 8 valve head on top of a 16 valve bottom end is this common to do or not im woundering if this is why it blew</TD></TR></TABLE>
if the car is a cx... they come stock with an 8 valve motor. the head has 8 vavles but the pistons have 16 'valve reliefs' on them...2 on each side of the piston... i'm willing to bet the motor has never been apart.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Shaw14 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">casue I put on a 16 valve top end now and the motor lays over on itself in second gear thru 5th whys this.</TD></TR></TABLE>
this would be because you're still running the ecu from the 8 valve motor and it's not running proper fuel maps for having that much more air pumped in/out of it through 8 extra valves. run a dx/lx ecu and you should be fine with the 16 valve head on there.
if the car is a cx... they come stock with an 8 valve motor. the head has 8 vavles but the pistons have 16 'valve reliefs' on them...2 on each side of the piston... i'm willing to bet the motor has never been apart.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Shaw14 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">casue I put on a 16 valve top end now and the motor lays over on itself in second gear thru 5th whys this.</TD></TR></TABLE>
this would be because you're still running the ecu from the 8 valve motor and it's not running proper fuel maps for having that much more air pumped in/out of it through 8 extra valves. run a dx/lx ecu and you should be fine with the 16 valve head on there.
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Shaw14 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">also i got a blown up 1990 ef hatch and will the ecu work outta that car cause its a 16 valve motor.</TD></TR></TABLE>
No, Your 92 civic is OBD1.
No, Your 92 civic is OBD1.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Shaw14 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yep thats what I figured but worth a try.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Hit up the junkyards
Hit up the junkyards
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 92ehatch »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i got a p06 i am willing to sell cheap.
its been sitting in my closet for almost 3 months. worked perfectly.
lemme know if you need it</TD></TR></TABLE>
There you go!
its been sitting in my closet for almost 3 months. worked perfectly.
lemme know if you need it</TD></TR></TABLE>
There you go!
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