I went out today and picked up a timing light so I could set my timing properly after replacing my dizzy. I bought one that had the dial so you can see what your timing is currently set at.

Dialed it to 16 BTDC and the white dot was still way off. It ended up being 27 degrees BTDC! I'm surprised I didn't have any serious problems. It is now set back to 18 BTDC and running smooth.

 

dayam! and no pinging huh?

 

How much was the Timing gun? I need to get one. How would you go around fixing the problem if the timing was off?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by soeurm &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">How much was the Timing gun? I need to get one. How would you go around fixing the problem if the timing was off?</TD></TR></TABLE>

$55 Craftsman on sale at Sears.

How-To: http://www.team-integra.net/se...ID=60

 

Cool thanks, I'm going get working on it

 

Are you using the dial correctly. When I first bought the one with the dial I could NEVER get my timing right because I'm an idiot. I didn't realise that you had to use the single white mark (0 degrees) when you have the dial. I kept aiming for the middle of the three lines. The ones without the dial you have to line up the middle of the 3 lines (16 degrees).

&lt;----Just admitting my silly mistake. You live and learn.

 

with the dial set to 0, you use the red mark, when it set to whatever, you use the white mark. that's how I know it was set to 27

 

So you're 100% positive you were using the single TDC mark rather than the group of 3 closely-spaced timing marks? And you jumped the service connector beneath the dash before adjusting the timing? The only reason I ask is because I honestly didn't think there was that much range of adjustment for the base timing, and I'm surprised that the motor was running without any issues using that much advancement.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Padawan &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">So you're 100% positive you were using the single TDC mark rather than the group of 3 closely-spaced timing marks? And you jumped the service connector beneath the dash before adjusting the timing? The only reason I ask is because I honestly didn't think there was that much range of adjustment for the base timing, and I'm surprised that the motor was running without any issues using that much advancement. </TD></TR></TABLE>

ditto. I never used one of the dial timing lights. what would be the point of using one of those over the standard timing lights? I feel much more comfortable aiming at the 3 marks than adjusting a dial but like I said I never used one before.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RTW DC2R &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I never used one of the dial timing lights. what would be the point of using one of those over the standard timing lights?</TD></TR></TABLE>

I've used both, but on Hondas the standard lights are probably easier if you're just looking to bring the timing to factory specs, since the correct marks are on the stock pulley. If you've swapped to a pulley that only has a TDC mark or want to set the timing to a specific value that doesn't correspond to one of the existing marks, the adjustable lights are useful.

 

I purchased one with a dial because I wanted to see what it was set at before I changed it, as well in case I want to do a non standard setting in the furture.

When I was setting the timing I first wanted to see what the timing was set to, so I turned the dial until the single white mark was lined up (27 degrees BTDC) I then set my dial back to 0 and lined it up on the black mark beside the red mark furthest from the white mark (18 degrees BTDC).

so it looks like so B_R_B____________W , the bold mark is where I have it set to now.

And yes I did use my service connector, the check engine light was on indicating that the service plug was connected properly

The car was not without fault when it was set to 27 BTDC, no knocking, but it felt like it had an extra 500lbs on board. it would slow down quickly if you let off the gas.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Nataku &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> it would slow down quickly if you let off the gas.</TD></TR></TABLE>


That's what usually happens.


Honestly though, I can't believe your timing was that far off. How in the world did you end up with your timing advanced 27 degrees? You're fine with leaving it at 18 degrees although I don't see why not just set it at 16 degrees. Sounds like you know what your doing with the timing gun so I guess that can be ruled out

I always double check the timing by setting the dial to the desired timing (18 degrees) just to make sure the timing is in fact 18 degrees. And then set it at 0 and see if the line lines up.

How's the car running now?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 88 rex &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">


That's what usually happens.


Honestly though, I can't believe your timing was that far off. How in the world did you end up with your timing advanced 27 degrees? You're fine with leaving it at 18 degrees although I don't see why not just set it at 16 degrees. Sounds like you know what your doing with the timing gun so I guess that can be ruled out

I always double check the timing by setting the dial to the desired timing (18 degrees) just to make sure the timing is in fact 18 degrees. And then set it at 0 and see if the line lines up.

How's the car running now? </TD></TR></TABLE>

When I installed my new dizzy I tried to install it in the same position as the old one (OEM), which was turned all most all the way CCW. the new dizzy (Distributor King) apparently doesn't want to be turned all the way CCW... My mistake.

I also did as you say and set the dial to 18 just to double check.

Car is running good now that I'm starting to sort out my idle woes.