So I'm looking into buying these:

6.5" Alpine Type Rs
and these:

6.5" Alpine Type R Components

Are they just called component speakers because they come with tweeters and crossovers?

What would be the ideal placement for all of these speakers in my CRX? Im thinking the "component" speakers in the rear in my jdm replica bass tubes, and the other two in the doors, with the tweeters on the dash.

My only concern is the front speakers will be overpowered by the rear "component" speakers and my two 12" type E's and I wont be able to hear them. I want clear sound and a good amount of bass, not an assload of bass to the point I can not hear anything else.

I plan on using two of these:

Alpine 4/3/2 Channel Power Amplifier MRP-F450
One to power the four speakers and the other bridged to power the two subs.

Will my stock hf alternator be able to handle this? Should I buy a new one anyway or upgrage?

Feel free to laugh at me if it turns out I have no clue what I'm talking about, just give me some advice and/or knowledge also. Thanks

 

First Of Happy Holidays to you. Wow that a lot of questions...lest see if I can answer then all mmmKay .

1. Yes they are called that for that reason. Its mainly because the crossover for the speaker are 'outboard' instaed on mounted to the speaker. (but you can also have 'integreated components' which are like the coaxial set but have the crossover mounted on the basket or outboard.
2. Place the 6.5" components in the front doors (tweeter mouted in door 6.5" midbass mounted in oem speaker location...you are going to have the make a spacer for the midbass for it to fit but its easy.) Put the 6.5" coaxials in the rear:you can use the tubes or not:the sound pretty good just mounted there .
3. No they won't be overpowered...but can I make a suggestion: Get the matching mono block alpine amp (mrpm350?) to drive the 2 type E 12's. Trust me on this ...its a match made in heaven.
4. Well the 60 amp hamster wheel can barely keep up with the basic electrical draw lol. Now if you listen to music there are gradual dips and peaks in it (loud and soft points) its not gonna stress it that much...but if you listen to test tones with lyrics tossed in (hip hop and rap) you need a few changes. Here's what I suggest (it won't hurt to do it any way)
-upgraded alternator (160 amps should be fine: 100A system(max) car 60a(max)
-4ga amp kit (100A of fusing by battery 2 amp distro block 60A and 40A): Most dual amp kits will cover this.
-6' of 4ga for battey ground and amp ground (if the amp kit doesnt have this covered.
- An upgraded battery (Optima,Kinetik Power,NSB,etc) in oem location
By doing this you would not need a cap!!!..(but adding one wouldnt hurt)
Remember:When the car is running the Alternator is the heart of the electrical system...If it can't keep up with current demands it will fail!! Using those 2 alpine amps your max current draw will be very close to 100 amps under heavy listening. And we don't want stuff to fail right?

The cool thing about this is you can make a real nice amp rack in place of the rear storage unit.

Well I hope this sheds some light on your future project. Have fun.



Modified by audioroach at 6:27 PM 12/25/2006

 

WOW, thank you very much that clears up a lot

I do have a few questions about your response.

1. I always thought a mono block amp could power only one speaker. Can they power two or are you suggesting I buy two monos?

2. The things you suggested I do for more power, do you mean I should do all of them or one of them.

3. What is a cap?

4. What is a good way to mount a tweeter in a door? Cut a hole?

5. Good place to find upgraded alternators?

6. And finally, amp rack?

haha sorry for all the questions

thanks man

edit: what kind of box do you reccomed I use? I want something small enough I can put the cargo cover on. ever used poly-fil in a box?

 

No problem...thats what tech is all about: giving great advice without sarcasm (at least most of the time lol). Now on to round 2 :

1. A mono block is a single channel amp (mono=one) who main purpose is to drive (power) subwoofers as efficeintly as possible. Now the Type E's you have will be of a single 4ohm voice coil variety. 2 of them wired in parallel (both pos posts together and both negative posts to form a single pos and neg post) would be what the amp desires. Its kinda the ideal situation for the amp.
2. Actually all of them. I own the same car and I'm an Installer by trade. By doing the things I suggested (as your budget allows ) you are insuring the best performance you can get out of your gear. A good...no GREAT place to look for wiring is http://www.Knukonceptz.com Superior customer service and the products are very wallet friendly
3. Stiffing Cap=cap. Its a voltage storage/conditioning device that stores and releases energy very rapidly as needed. Available in a variety of sizes measured by FARADS. Typical use in car audio is 1 farad...but you can have as many farads as you like...there is no diminishing return in adding it to a system.
4. LOL yes...The ideal way is to use a hole saw to cut the hole...just under the size of the tweeter and use a half moon file to snug it in. If I remember mine I thing its 1" up from the bottom of the door handle opening and 3" out from its end. I'll check my door after work and maybe post a pic or two.
5. A few good places:Hmm google Ohio generator,Powermaster,and HO Alternator.
You could also use a small case gm alternator on our cars (its a competition thing ). Waht many don't understand is we can only get so much into that denso case...and what a lot of local guy (alternator rebuilders) do is to shrink the pully so that it spins faster. It works but the problem is when you are going at highway speeds you sound like a 747 approaching takeoff!!. So a few words of wisdom-if you go that route,please mentions its a daily driver.
6. an amp rack is a place where your amps and electronics are mounted. The good thing about that car is that the rear storage cubby can be removed and those very small amps and the distribution gear can be mounted in rack that looks OEM and very steathy from the outside. Its very easy thing to do if you have the skills.

Edit: The ideal box for that situation would be a 2.5-3^ft box sealed (total) A box that size would fit very easily and depending on taste of music would sound very good. I think you would be pleased.

Edit 2: Also consider doing a security system for that car...it doesnt have to be a fancy 2 way unit-a basic 1 way with all entry points covered would work. Look at a local dealer and forget about doing ebay: You want a face to face if any issues arise.

Have fun and welcome to the world of car audio....

 

Awesome thank you
I plan on taking lots of pics while I do this so maybe Ill have a write up some day. The CRX just seems like a good audio car so I think it will turn out pretty well.
again thank you for answering my questions

 

I agree with the above, mostly

First the speakers, are not standard 6.5", they are over-sized 6.5" so the install will not be as easy as stated, [proper install], your stock mounting hole is 5", the Alpine needs a 5-21/64" mounting hole, it's not a big diff. but enough of one that "just a spacer" is may be an understatement, mounting depth is 3" stock is 2" and I am not sure you can use a 1" spacer on a CRX, you may also have to cut out back of stock plastic housing, to allow for the speakers magnet.
The coax are a little bigger 5-7/16" and although a little shallower, [2-3/4"] will a bit of a pain to install in the rear because of the "dimpled" metal mounting bracket, however both sets would sound great if the stock speaker mounting plate, [rear] and plastic housing, [front] where replaced with custom MDF plate and housings, [as would be the case with any speaker].
Oh yea, I do agree the 2way components should go up front, and the 2way coax should go in the stock rear locations, and I would disable the tweeters on the rear coax, [highs from behind you will interfere wish staging and imaging] I would also keep the gain on the rear 2 channels, [relative to the fronts] low.

The only other thing I disagree with is the use of splitter blocks between high-pass and low-pass amps, [I definitely agree you should look into a mono block sub amp for the subs] I would run one power lead from the batt. for the high-pass amp and a separate one for the sub amp, [it has to do with resistance and the electrical law "electricity takes the coarse of least resistance" and has more to do with SQ of the high-pass when the sub amp is working the hardest.

But if you have the time and patience to do the job right, you certainly have the good enough equipment to get a very good sounding system that will be more then loud enough.

BTW the Alpine MRP-M650 would make a good sub amp. 94