Bleeding Brakes.
Re: Bleeding Brakes. (blakebrkr)
1. Jack up the car, remove the wheel.
2. Get a receiving bottle (water bottle).
3. Have someone pump the brakes while you take a 10mm wrench (calipers) or 8mm wrench (drums) to open the bleeder valve, then close it.
4. Continue the process until no air comes out and a steady stream of fluid comes out.
Rear right, rear left, front right, and front left.
2. Get a receiving bottle (water bottle).
3. Have someone pump the brakes while you take a 10mm wrench (calipers) or 8mm wrench (drums) to open the bleeder valve, then close it.
4. Continue the process until no air comes out and a steady stream of fluid comes out.
Rear right, rear left, front right, and front left.
Re: Bleeding Brakes. (blakebrkr)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by blakebrkr »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">do i have to do all 4 or can I just do the fronts? </TD></TR></TABLE>
What is your reason for bleeding brakes? If you have air in the lines from the MC, then you would need to do all 4.
What is your reason for bleeding brakes? If you have air in the lines from the MC, then you would need to do all 4.
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Re: Bleeding Brakes. (BlueIntegraBoy)
I had a bolt back-out on the passenger side caliper so when I took the caliper off to check everything i put the line back on. Now I have no pressure. I've never had to bleed the brakes before.
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Re: Bleeding Brakes. (blakebrkr)
If you've never bed them before I would def. do all four and I would do a proper flush.
I 99% sure that the bleed order is:
1 pass. rear
2 driver front
3 driver rear
4 pass. front
it's not the biggest deal in the world.
Also just to answer your question... yes you CAN bleed just the front... it's just not the right thing to do.
I 99% sure that the bleed order is:
1 pass. rear
2 driver front
3 driver rear
4 pass. front
it's not the biggest deal in the world.
Also just to answer your question... yes you CAN bleed just the front... it's just not the right thing to do.
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well, bleeding all 4 isnt any better than just the one wheel that you opened the line on. FLUSHING the system would be very good preventative maintenance on your 13yr old baby.
brake fluid absorbs moisture, this moisture travels through the hydraulic system, deteriorating everything, in laymans terms, FLUSH IT.
brake fluid absorbs moisture, this moisture travels through the hydraulic system, deteriorating everything, in laymans terms, FLUSH IT.
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From: Pittsburgh, PA
Re: Bleeding Brakes. (blakebrkr)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by blakebrkr »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">do i have to do all 4 or can I just do the fronts? </TD></TR></TABLE>
I'm assuming this is a non-ABS car?
The channels are diagonal, not front/rear. You might be able to get away with just bleeding the line that was disconnected (give it a try and see if the pedal feels okay), but you'll probably have to bleed at least one front and one rear, or even the entire system.
For bleeding order, start with the farthest corner from the master cylinder, then complete the diagonal channel. Repeat with the other channel. In simple terms: passenger rear > driver front > driver rear > passenger front.
Keep an eye on the level of fluid in the master cylinder reservoir while bleeding. Don't let it drop low enough to allow the MC to suck air into the lines.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by schardbody »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">well, bleeding all 4 isnt any better than just the one wheel that you opened the line on. FLUSHING the system would be very good preventative maintenance on your 13yr old baby.
brake fluid absorbs moisture, this moisture travels through the hydraulic system, deteriorating everything, in laymans terms, FLUSH IT.</TD></TR></TABLE>
If his system has never been flushed before, chances are very high that his master cylinder is going to fail within a few days of flushing, due to internal deposits and debris buildups being dislodged from and/or tearing the seals. I generally recommend that one be prepared to replace the master cylinder (can be $100-200 + fluid depending on model) immediately if they're doing a complete flush on a brake system that has never been touched before. Sometimes it will be okay, but often it will need to be replaced.
Modified by Targa250R at 6:43 AM 12/24/2006
I'm assuming this is a non-ABS car?
The channels are diagonal, not front/rear. You might be able to get away with just bleeding the line that was disconnected (give it a try and see if the pedal feels okay), but you'll probably have to bleed at least one front and one rear, or even the entire system.
For bleeding order, start with the farthest corner from the master cylinder, then complete the diagonal channel. Repeat with the other channel. In simple terms: passenger rear > driver front > driver rear > passenger front.
Keep an eye on the level of fluid in the master cylinder reservoir while bleeding. Don't let it drop low enough to allow the MC to suck air into the lines.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by schardbody »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">well, bleeding all 4 isnt any better than just the one wheel that you opened the line on. FLUSHING the system would be very good preventative maintenance on your 13yr old baby.
brake fluid absorbs moisture, this moisture travels through the hydraulic system, deteriorating everything, in laymans terms, FLUSH IT.</TD></TR></TABLE>
If his system has never been flushed before, chances are very high that his master cylinder is going to fail within a few days of flushing, due to internal deposits and debris buildups being dislodged from and/or tearing the seals. I generally recommend that one be prepared to replace the master cylinder (can be $100-200 + fluid depending on model) immediately if they're doing a complete flush on a brake system that has never been touched before. Sometimes it will be okay, but often it will need to be replaced.
Modified by Targa250R at 6:43 AM 12/24/2006
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Re: Bleeding Brakes. (Targa250R)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Targa250R »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I'm assuming this is a non-ABS car?
The channels are diagonal, not front/rear. You might be able to get away with just bleeding the line that was disconnected (give it a try and see if the pedal feels okay), but you'll probably have to bleed at least one front and one rear, or even the entire system.
For bleeding order, start with the farthest corner from the master cylinder, then complete the diagonal channel. Repeat with the other channel. In simple terms: passenger rear > driver front > driver rear > driver front.
Keep an eye on the level of fluid in the master cylinder reservoir while bleeding. Don't let it drop low enough to allow the MC to suck air into the lines.
If his system has never been flushed before, chances are very high that his master cylinder is going to fail within a few days of flushing, due to internal deposits and debris buildups being dislodged from and/or tearing the seals. I generally recommend that one be prepared to replace the master cylinder (can be $100-200 + fluid depending on model) immediately if they're doing a complete flush on a brake system that has never been touched before. Sometimes it will be okay, but often it will need to be replaced.</TD></TR></TABLE>
my bro 2000 civic si has about 92000 miles on it. We were thinking about bleeding the brakes very soon. Do you think he might need to get a new MC? Planning to use ATE superblue.
Modified by realis9 at 3:50 AM 12/24/2006
I'm assuming this is a non-ABS car?
The channels are diagonal, not front/rear. You might be able to get away with just bleeding the line that was disconnected (give it a try and see if the pedal feels okay), but you'll probably have to bleed at least one front and one rear, or even the entire system.
For bleeding order, start with the farthest corner from the master cylinder, then complete the diagonal channel. Repeat with the other channel. In simple terms: passenger rear > driver front > driver rear > driver front.
Keep an eye on the level of fluid in the master cylinder reservoir while bleeding. Don't let it drop low enough to allow the MC to suck air into the lines.
If his system has never been flushed before, chances are very high that his master cylinder is going to fail within a few days of flushing, due to internal deposits and debris buildups being dislodged from and/or tearing the seals. I generally recommend that one be prepared to replace the master cylinder (can be $100-200 + fluid depending on model) immediately if they're doing a complete flush on a brake system that has never been touched before. Sometimes it will be okay, but often it will need to be replaced.</TD></TR></TABLE>
my bro 2000 civic si has about 92000 miles on it. We were thinking about bleeding the brakes very soon. Do you think he might need to get a new MC? Planning to use ATE superblue.
Modified by realis9 at 3:50 AM 12/24/2006
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Re: Bleeding Brakes. (realis9)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by realis9 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">my bro 2000 civic si has about 92000 miles on it. We were thinking about bleeding the brakes very soon. Do you think he might need to get a new MC? Planning to use ATF superblue.</TD></TR></TABLE>
That's "Ate," as in the brake fluid brand, not ATF (which is the acronym for automatic transmission fluid).
There is a very good chance that a 7 year old car may not blow the master cylinder with a system flush (especially if it has ever been flushed before), but obviously I can't make any guarantees. You won't know until you flush it. If the pedal starts sinking slowly to the floor under steady pressure within a few days after the flush (and you don't have any other fluid leaks), you'll know that the MC seals have failed. This is usually a problem with cars a decade or more old, with the factory fill (now cruddy) brake fluid.
That's "Ate," as in the brake fluid brand, not ATF (which is the acronym for automatic transmission fluid).
There is a very good chance that a 7 year old car may not blow the master cylinder with a system flush (especially if it has ever been flushed before), but obviously I can't make any guarantees. You won't know until you flush it. If the pedal starts sinking slowly to the floor under steady pressure within a few days after the flush (and you don't have any other fluid leaks), you'll know that the MC seals have failed. This is usually a problem with cars a decade or more old, with the factory fill (now cruddy) brake fluid.
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Re: Bleeding Brakes. (realis9)
I wish I could definitely say yes or no, but I'm sorry that I can't. You'll have to decide whether to do it or not. Like I said, it could fail, but chances are that it will be okay.
The only tip I can give you is to not push the pedal all the way to the floor when pumping it - that way, you won't be scraping the piston seals over any deposits that built up on the cylinder wall beyond the normal travel of the piston.
Good luck.
The only tip I can give you is to not push the pedal all the way to the floor when pumping it - that way, you won't be scraping the piston seals over any deposits that built up on the cylinder wall beyond the normal travel of the piston.
Good luck.
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Re: Bleeding Brakes. (Targa250R)
you always start with the wheel furthest from the master cylinder, which would be the rear passenger. Then you go to the next one furthest, the rear driver. Then the next furthest, the front passenger, then finally the front driver.
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Re: Bleeding Brakes. (jadugartir)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jadugartir »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you always start with the wheel furthest from the master cylinder, which would be the rear passenger. Then you go to the next one furthest, the rear driver. Then the next furthest, the front passenger, then finally the front driver.</TD></TR></TABLE>
That's not the correct bleeding procedure according to Honda's (Helm) factory service manual.
The brake channels are diagonal, so you start with the farthest corner and then complete the diagonal channel with the opposite corner. PR > DF > DR > PF.
That's not the correct bleeding procedure according to Honda's (Helm) factory service manual.
The brake channels are diagonal, so you start with the farthest corner and then complete the diagonal channel with the opposite corner. PR > DF > DR > PF.
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Re: Bleeding Brakes. (Targa250R)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Targa250R »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
That's not the correct bleeding procedure according to Honda's (Helm) factory service manual.
The brake channels are diagonal, so you start with the farthest corner and then complete the diagonal channel with the opposite corner. PR > DF > DR > PF.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yes, this is def correct with Civic prop valves.
That's not the correct bleeding procedure according to Honda's (Helm) factory service manual.
The brake channels are diagonal, so you start with the farthest corner and then complete the diagonal channel with the opposite corner. PR > DF > DR > PF.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yes, this is def correct with Civic prop valves.
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Re: Bleeding Brakes. (Targa250R)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Targa250R »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
If his system has never been flushed before, chances are very high that his master cylinder is going to fail within a few days of flushing, due to internal deposits and debris buildups being dislodged from and/or tearing the seals. I generally recommend that one be prepared to replace the master cylinder (can be $100-200 + fluid depending on model) immediately if they're doing a complete flush on a brake system that has never been touched before. Sometimes it will be okay, but often it will need to be replaced.
Modified by Targa250R at 6:43 AM 12/24/2006</TD></TR></TABLE>
100% correct, but even bleeding one wheel will likely cause the deposits around the master cylinder seal to free up and cause the fluid to start bypassing the piston, so might as well FLUSH and pray.
but i do agree, its like doing a transmission filter and gasket on a chrysler product with 100k that hasnt had it done yet, you as a tech know its not gonna move afterwards, and you tell the customer about the possibility, and they still want it done anyways.
If his system has never been flushed before, chances are very high that his master cylinder is going to fail within a few days of flushing, due to internal deposits and debris buildups being dislodged from and/or tearing the seals. I generally recommend that one be prepared to replace the master cylinder (can be $100-200 + fluid depending on model) immediately if they're doing a complete flush on a brake system that has never been touched before. Sometimes it will be okay, but often it will need to be replaced.
Modified by Targa250R at 6:43 AM 12/24/2006</TD></TR></TABLE>
100% correct, but even bleeding one wheel will likely cause the deposits around the master cylinder seal to free up and cause the fluid to start bypassing the piston, so might as well FLUSH and pray.
but i do agree, its like doing a transmission filter and gasket on a chrysler product with 100k that hasnt had it done yet, you as a tech know its not gonna move afterwards, and you tell the customer about the possibility, and they still want it done anyways.
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