my stock pr3 always had an 8500(ish) limiter. then one day at watkins glen it moved down to 7800 for a session. the rest of the weekend it was back at 8500. it progressively got more and more comon till now its at 7800 almost all the time. i thought the computer had taken a crap or the dizzy was going bad. so i replaced the dizzy. that didnt work. replaced the computer with a chipped (10,500 limiter) pr3 and that only worked for a day. probably because i unpluged it. only code i have is for tps but i've always had that code. so i know thats not causing the issue.

any ideas??? this is getting annoying.

 

First of all your factory tach is off because the stock redline is around 8200rpm. Second are you letting your car warm up all of the way (Your car won't hit vtec or full rev limiter if it's cold for the safety of your engine) Alot of people will just start their cars and then beat on them and that's why you see soo many cars that smoke because they burn the rings out before they can warm up to fit the cylinder.
P.S. Those 10,500rpm chips are bad news because if you miss shift then its all over, plus you shouldn't even take it up higher without upgrading your cams and <U>valvetrain</U> because your past your peak power on stock over 7600-7800rpms. Any higher than 8k and your lossing power

 

wow, that was helpfull
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jdmboyef9 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">First of all your factory tach is off because the stock redline is around 8200rpm. </TD></TR></TABLE> hats why i said 'ish.' as if to say 'around'.....

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jdmboyef9 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Second are you letting your car warm up all of the way (Your car won't hit vtec or full rev limiter if it's cold for the safety of your engine) Alot of people will just start their cars and then beat on them and that's why you see soo many cars that smoke because they burn the rings out before they can warm up to fit the cylinder.
</TD></TR></TABLE> if it was cold it would not hit vtec cause the computer wouldnt see the necessary coolant temp. try again...

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jdmboyef9 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">P.S. Those 10,500rpm chips are bad news because if you miss shift then its all over, plus you shouldn't even take it up higher without upgrading your cams and <U>valvetrain</U> because your past your peak power on stock over 7600-7800rpms. Any higher than 8k and your lossing power</TD></TR></TABLE> my dyno shows im making power past 7800. it'll rev to 8500 w/o issue. 10,000? of course you cant do thaton a stock motor. just using it to see if it was my computer or something esle.....

anyone have any USEFULL information pertaning to my question?

 

are you getting those numbers from the stock tach?

 

vafc and rev speed meter

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Lo-Buck EF &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">vafc and rev speed meter</TD></TR></TABLE>

Well damn that's about as accurate as you can get it..why don't you think the tps could affect it? it might be that it's getting worse and worse over time and that's why it was good for a year and now all the sudden changing..???? maybe

also how come your ecu goes up to 8500? mine only goes up to 8150-8200revs according to the vafc

 

8200rpms for me then stops.

 

i get 8500 on the vafc and 8200-8300 on the RSM with the stock pr3. if i shift at 8500 as per the aftermarket tach wired to the dizzy i get 8600 from the vac and 84-85 from the rsm.

i'm getting zero signal from the tps to the ecu. i tried changing the tps but that didnt work. i have to start from scratch and rewire it with a fresh tps. i dont know why the tps wiring was touched by the previous owner. you dont need to to do the swap.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Lo-Buck EF &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

i'm getting zero signal from the tps to the ecu. i tried changing the tps but that didnt work. i have to start from scratch and rewire it with a fresh tps. i dont know why the tps wiring was touched by the previous owner. you dont need to to do the swap. </TD></TR></TABLE>


Yeah i know how you feel, my crx was rigged in every way by the previous owner and i had to fix all the problems....

 

so you dont think not having a TPS signal will give you erratic conditions??? it will, and most likely is, i dont care what you say, no signal from the TPS= limp mode and NO vtec.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by schardbody &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> i dont care what you say, no signal from the TPS= limp mode and NO vtec. </TD></TR></TABLE>

realy? cause vtec works. worked with the stock pr3, with the vafc and the chipped pr3.

took the car for a ride and when i get the 7800 limiter i get code 22 vtec pressure valve. cleaned out the screen in the solenoid (wasnt dirty) and checked the wiring. everything looks ok but theres a wire at pin b5 thats just hanging out. i have neeb searching but cant find a definate answer as to weather or not it should be hooked up. it shows it as vtec pressure switch. maybe this not being hooked up has somehting to do with this?

 

how spence dont worry about that extra pin hanging out by the ecu, it was for the ELD system which the pr3 ecu doesnt support you remove it to put in the vtec presure switch or spool valve. I forget which one. but just double check, everything. never know what was none before you.

 

if/when the CEL is on you DEFINATELY do NOT have vtec. point blank, ANY code will disable vtec instantly.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by schardbody &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">if/when the CEL is on you DEFINATELY do NOT have vtec. point blank, ANY code will disable vtec instantly. </TD></TR></TABLE>

i wish i had an in car camera. the check engine light has been on in this car SINCE I BOUGHT IT. and vtec has worked. there is no exhaust on the car. vtec changeover is VERY noticable.

CRXJimmy-is the vtec pressure valve supposed to be hooked up to the B5 pin?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Lo-Buck EF &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i wish i had an in car camera. the check engine light has been on in this car SINCE I BOUGHT IT. and vtec has worked. there is no exhaust on the car. vtec changeover is VERY noticable.

AGAIN, does anyone have any USEFULL information that can help me sort out my mysterious low rev limit?</TD></TR></TABLE>

that weird, must be some hacked wiring or something going on. i should say on an unmolested car if the CEL is on you have no vtec. sorry, no "usefull" info.

 

yea, its a bad hack job. always fixing something.

 

obd1 b16 DOES tach out at 8500

 

but you have a vafc so your vtec will turn on with a cel, the vafc turns it on regardless

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Crx Jimmy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">but you have a vafc so your vtec will turn on with a cel, the vafc turns it on regardless</TD></TR></TABLE>

LOL, so true, not reading owns me. hacked up wiring still owns the OP.

 

Check VSS

 

vtec always worked with a cell. dont know why, but it does. moving on...

VSS is working.

im gonna log some miles in the car either today or ill take it to work tomorrow and see if the ground i fixed actualy did anything.