I never thought taking a header off could be so much work.
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 411
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From: Tampa, FL, United States of America
So I have a 90 crx with a b16 swap and dc headers. The car is extremely low and the header even lower. So one night I was driving on some road I didn't know and I hit this huge pot hole. So now I have a DC header dented to hell. I bought a stock one for 20 bucks for now. I tryed to un bolt the DC and its too big to just come out. I've heard when you pull the lower support bar it will bend your tortion bars so I didn't do that. But now I really dont know what to do. Should I A:pull the support bar and brace it or something. B: cut the DC in half. C:take it to a mechanic and let him figure it out.
remove the radius rods from the front crossmemeber, remove four more bolts and remove the crossmember. header will come out now.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by I Like Hondas »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What are the Radious Rods?</TD></TR></TABLE>

#5 in the pic, however I got the header out just by taking the cross member off and having the car on jack stands.

#5 in the pic, however I got the header out just by taking the cross member off and having the car on jack stands.
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Jan 2006
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From: Tampa, FL, United States of America
Ya I was thinking that I could just unbolt it. but then this guy was telling me how 90% of the time the torsion bar gets bent then you have to fix that etc...
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by I Like Hondas »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Ya I was thinking that I could just unbolt it. but then this guy was telling me how 90% of the time the torsion bar gets bent then you have to fix that etc...</TD></TR></TABLE>
Nah man thats BS I have done it this way plenty of times nothing is going to bend as long as your not jumping on the thing... And if your that worried get a 17 ratchet wrench and take off the arms too
Nah man thats BS I have done it this way plenty of times nothing is going to bend as long as your not jumping on the thing... And if your that worried get a 17 ratchet wrench and take off the arms too
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by I Like Hondas »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Ya I was thinking that I could just unbolt it. but then this guy was telling me how 90% of the time the torsion bar gets bent then you have to fix that etc...</TD></TR></TABLE> Pssh, if that was true the standard up and down motion of the suspension would bend them.
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 411
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From: Tampa, FL, United States of America
Ok well in that case I'm just gonna do this myself. I was getting all worried and crap thinking I was gonna have to take it to a mechanic or like skill saw the damn header off. So, THANK YOU!
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 341
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From: under the hood of a, 4th gen, hatchback
Dont be surprised if you throw off ur allignment after everything is bolted back up (crossmember removal)... and if it is so!...dont go to sears for the allignment job they suck choad when it comes to lowered vehicles!
pEaCe.
pEaCe.
radius rods are not torsion bars
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by wikipedia »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> One end of a long metal bar is attached firmly to the vehicle chassis; the opposite end terminates in a lever, mounted perpendicular to the bar, that is attached to the axle of the suspension arm or wishbone. Vertical motion of the wheel causes the bar to rotate along its axis and is resisted by the bar's torsion resistance. The effective spring rate of the bar is determined by its length, diameter, and material.</TD></TR></TABLE>
the radius rod is mainly there to keep the front lower control arm from jittering back and forth under braking/turning/etc
...iguess
gl, yeah mooseknuckle headers never last on a ef
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by wikipedia »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> One end of a long metal bar is attached firmly to the vehicle chassis; the opposite end terminates in a lever, mounted perpendicular to the bar, that is attached to the axle of the suspension arm or wishbone. Vertical motion of the wheel causes the bar to rotate along its axis and is resisted by the bar's torsion resistance. The effective spring rate of the bar is determined by its length, diameter, and material.</TD></TR></TABLE>
the radius rod is mainly there to keep the front lower control arm from jittering back and forth under braking/turning/etc
...iguess
gl, yeah mooseknuckle headers never last on a ef
whoever told you that the radius rod bend when removing theh crossmember is full of stuff i just did this to my EF thursday morning to remove my 4-1 DC header due to smog purpouses and i have never seen them bend in all the EF's i have worked on so remove the 4 17mm bolts from the crossmember and 2 17mm also from the radius rods and just slide the crossmember out nothing is gonna happen. good luck doggie
sometimes to get those 17mm bolts off the radius rod i have had to remove the entire strut as well to get an impact on them...
they are a ******* **** to get out if they havent been taken out in the past few years.
also putting them back in watch out u dont cross thread them. u might even wanna run a tap through em to clean all the **** out.
good luck!
they are a ******* **** to get out if they havent been taken out in the past few years.
also putting them back in watch out u dont cross thread them. u might even wanna run a tap through em to clean all the **** out.
good luck!
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Dec 2004
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From: under the hood of a, 4th gen, hatchback
i had to replace my OE crossmember w/ an aftermarket in order to install the 4-1 and it threw off the allignment...it drove just fine before the install and now i have a pull to the left going down the road!
good luck andrew!
good luck andrew!
Thread Starter
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Joined: Jan 2006
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From: Tampa, FL, United States of America
Thanks for all the input. My garage is such a mess right now I can't find any sockets. But once I get my tools together I'm gonna start on it. I'll let you guys know how it goes.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by shortSHIFT »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i had to replace my OE crossmember w/ an aftermarket in order to install the 4-1 and it threw off the allignment...it drove just fine before the install and now i have a pull to the left going down the road!
good luck andrew!</TD></TR></TABLE>
u replaced a big piece of the suspension/carriage/underbelly
it isn't going to be "exactly" the same
good luck andrew!</TD></TR></TABLE>
u replaced a big piece of the suspension/carriage/underbelly
it isn't going to be "exactly" the same
have u tried to angle the header out? thats what i did with my stock one cus the bolts on the 2 piece were rusted through n i didnt really feel like taking off the crossmember......with a little bit of effort i angled it out through the bottom of the car..
get a 17mm socket and losen the four bolts on the bottom of the crossmember halfway. then take off the radius arm bolts that are on the crossmember as well as the bushings . then once those are off go ahead and take off the four bolt all the way and the crossmember should drop down giving plenty of room to remove/install the headers.


