once the car is on, a check engine light comes on and stays on. no flicker or falshes when diagnose. anyone has a similar problem and have solve it please help out a member. everything works fine, but only the check light light appears.

thanks

 

are you jumping the right connector

 

yeah, all connectors are correct.

 

plug in a diagnostic computer at like schucks or something than you can know 4 sure.

 

hit me up im in stockton...i can check it for ya real quick i have an obd2 scanner

 

i dont have one at the moment. but looking forward to it. however, i was wondering if anyone on honda tech that owns a honda have had a similar problem. would you recommend a new engine harness , which i can get one for 70 bucks. buts seems like a hassle to install. anywho, more feedback would be lovely, thanks to all whom responded.

 

what is it gonna cost me? for a scan?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by blackb16209 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yeah, all connectors are correct.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Hes not asking if everything is connected. What hes saying is are you using the right connector to check the codes yourself without using a scanner. The check ligh will not just tell you the code it selft. You have to jump a conector with a wire or paer clip to get the code.

 

Did you jump the service connector with a paperclip?
Use this thread to find out what's wrong.
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread/1171263

 

yeah i jumped with a wire, u shape like a u with both ends connected to the diagnose connector, but it shows no flashing light. Of course i tried that. If i had solve my problem, i wouldn't waste ur guys time.

 

you could goto auto zone and see if tehy get a code but it could also be a sensor, because if a sensor is not geting at least 500mV to the ECU it will throw a code. witch could be a loose or corded connection on one of ur sensors.

 

I still think you're doing something wrong with jumping the connector out. Either you're not getting a good connection between the two wires in there, you have the wrong connector or you're not doing something else right.
Go to Auto Zone or Checkers and have them check it for you. They do it for free and can even give you a printout of your problem

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by IslandSi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I still think you're doing something wrong with jumping the connector out. Either you're not getting a good connection between the two wires in there, you have the wrong connector or you're not doing something else right.
Go to Auto Zone or Checkers and have them check it for you. They do it for free and can even give you a printout of your problem</TD></TR></TABLE>
Same thing happened to me, I couldn't figure it out...But I was using the wrong ecu for the car though.

 

advance auto.

free scan for codes.

match codes to ones in the sticky thread.

fix codes.

/thread

 

&lt;----can scan for free also....also have another 00 si ecu to try for fun....

 

Solid check engine light may indicate a bad ecu or wrong ecu. Borrow another SI ecu and see ehat happens. Good luck

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 4DeepCivic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Solid check engine light may indicate a bad ecu or wrong ecu. Borrow another SI ecu and see ehat happens. Good luck</TD></TR></TABLE>

I still think he's not doing it right.

 

Since he is on OBD2, TO MY KNOWLEDGE, the paperclip/jump the connectors thing will not work.

You will need to go get the codes pull from the ECU via an OBD2 scanner.

EDIT: I was wrong, it CAN be done...

" On OBD2 cars, there is a connector located under the dash by the passenger footwell that must be shorted. This will cause the dash CEL to blink, indicating which codes are being thrown. You can also use an OBD2 scan tool which connects to the plug by the driver's side footwell. It is a gray connector that should be easily identifiable."

http://www.pgmfi.org/twiki/bin/view/Library/CEL

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by IslandSi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I still think he's not doing it right.</TD></TR></TABLE>

i would agree, hes probably not doign it right ... the first 2 weeks i didn't jump it right, and got Solid CEL ... then one time i got it right and it worked =]

so, doing it correctly is not automatic ...

if it still ils solid and you are doing it correctly, it means bad ECU.

see this page for Solid CEL light troubleshooting ...

http://www.pgmfi.org/twiki/bin/view/Library/CEL

 

i offered to scan it and try another p2t ecu??? what more could he want?
i live right next to the in-n-out in stockton...could meet me there =P
guess no one wants free help these days =P

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Miracle &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Since he is on OBD2, TO MY KNOWLEDGE, the paperclip/jump the connectors thing will not work.

You will need to go get the codes pull from the ECU via an OBD2 scanner.

EDIT: I was wrong, it CAN be done... </TD></TR></TABLE>

Yeah, I was about to jump through the screen with my EM1 and show you my blinking CEL I get with the paperclip trick.

 

Try to reset the ecu by disconnecting the battery for about 2 mins and then reconnect. Start car afterwards and see if light comes on, could have been a faulty cel. If it's still on then make sure you have alot of spit on the end of your tounge and lick the jumper with the blue connector above your ecu and see if that doesn't flash anything.