? about a cf hood?
try this thread.... https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=897677&page=1.. the 3m marine polish worked for my old cf hood....
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by _WhItE_97gSr_ »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Mine started to fade too but when I clay barred it, it brought back some color. My last resort is sand blast and re-clear coat it. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Wouldn't sand blasting be too rough? Just sand and reclear.
Wouldn't sand blasting be too rough? Just sand and reclear.
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What you people fail to realize is that the resin never cures to a 100% solid. Another terminology would be picturing a window screen laying horizontally and pooring molasis on top of it. The molasis will slowly work it's way through the weeve of the screen.
This is what resin does through any kind of cloth no matter how tight the weeve. This is why some of the cheaper made hoods and stuff will eventually show bare cloth marks and/or parts where the resin isn't as thick as it should be.
Another thing to mention is that the anti-UV agents that are found in resins are not 100% effective either. The only thing you can really do is to simply keep your parts out of the sun. If you cannot do that, you need to constantly apply anti-UV agents that will simply slow the process of fading at best.
This is what resin does through any kind of cloth no matter how tight the weeve. This is why some of the cheaper made hoods and stuff will eventually show bare cloth marks and/or parts where the resin isn't as thick as it should be.
Another thing to mention is that the anti-UV agents that are found in resins are not 100% effective either. The only thing you can really do is to simply keep your parts out of the sun. If you cannot do that, you need to constantly apply anti-UV agents that will simply slow the process of fading at best.
Wet sand it with 2000 or 1500 grit sand paper. Then take 3m rubbing compound, and then 3m polishing compound. This will make it look like a mirror.
If this does not work, or sounds like to much work, I would sand the whole thing with 600 grit sand paper, and re clear coat it. This will take out all the elbow grease if you are lazy. Just scuff the surface is all you need, don't go nuts.
I know because I paint. Now the fiberglass explination above, I don't know that whole process, only how to paint. If the cloudy color is in the clear, you can do the above.
If this does not work, or sounds like to much work, I would sand the whole thing with 600 grit sand paper, and re clear coat it. This will take out all the elbow grease if you are lazy. Just scuff the surface is all you need, don't go nuts.
I know because I paint. Now the fiberglass explination above, I don't know that whole process, only how to paint. If the cloudy color is in the clear, you can do the above.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by aaronISthrowed »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">So... penut butter??? Does it work?</TD></TR></TABLE>
It works as good as a wax, and is temporary like a wax. Search for it and you'll see some threads with pictures.
It works as good as a wax, and is temporary like a wax. Search for it and you'll see some threads with pictures.
What you people fail to realize is that the resin never cures to a 100% solid. Another terminology would be picturing a window screen laying horizontally and pooring molasis on top of it. The molasis will slowly work it's way through the weeve of the screen.
This is what resin does through any kind of cloth no matter how tight the weeve. This is why some of the cheaper made hoods and stuff will eventually show bare cloth marks and/or parts where the resin isn't as thick as it should be.
Another thing to mention is that the anti-UV agents that are found in resins are not 100% effective either. The only thing you can really do is to simply keep your parts out of the sun. If you cannot do that, you need to constantly apply anti-UV agents that will simply slow the process of fading at best
he's absolutely right... i work with c/f everyday and the uv rays break down the resin making it look like it fades... there's really no getting away from it... it sucks... so think about this when you decide to drop 500 on a hood thats not going to last too long
im curious, its minorly off topic but..
if you paint+clear the CF hood with a legit pro paintjob.
would it chip off easier then a metal or plastic peice? or the paint fade more or crack overtime cause it settles in le weeeeves?
if you paint+clear the CF hood with a legit pro paintjob.
would it chip off easier then a metal or plastic peice? or the paint fade more or crack overtime cause it settles in le weeeeves?
Joined: Jan 2002
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CF hood = too much money and hassle to deal with, not to mention you get a crappy looking part instead of the nicely paint-matched (in most cases) stock hood.
I'll keep my metal hood, thanks. It's not worth it to save 10-20 lbs.
I'll keep my metal hood, thanks. It's not worth it to save 10-20 lbs.
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