Ok, like my post says, I am about to build my B18C1 block for all motor duty. I have JDM ITR pistons brand new in the box and I was wondering if I should bother having my OEM rods shot-peened. A buddy told me to have them shot-peened but somebody else told me not to even bother. My goal is to reach around 205-220 whp....if the car falls anywhere in that range, I'll be happy. I just want to know if I have to shot peen the rods or if I could just drop the pistons in and have the pistons and rods balanced along with the crank?

Wat would you guys recommend?

 

I would get a quote, then think more. My LS rods are shotpeened and polished was under 100 for me IIRC 80 bucks maybe?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Capt. Blonde Beard &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I would get a quote, then think more. My LS rods are shotpeened and polished was under 100 for me IIRC 80 bucks maybe?

</TD></TR></TABLE>

so you recommend getting them shot peened?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 1JDMDOMINICAN &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

so you recommend getting them shot peened?</TD></TR></TABLE>
If the price is good sure why not, esp if the whole motor is coming apart, but you could hit your goals with no problem with out doing it.

Get a quote first just incase

 

I spoke to two engine builders and got mixed reviews about it shot peening oem rods. One said it was beneficial and the other said it wasn't. I can't remember the reasoning why it wasn't good to do. I think he said it actually weakens the rod, because of the grain structure. Hopefully someone else will chime in.


Modified by goforbroke at 4:44 AM 2/13/2007

 

You don't have to shot peen gsr rods since they are forged and have a high chromium content in them. To make it you feel better that WD-40 All motor B series shoot out, R&D Dyno who built the 290ish hp motor ran on stock gsr rod and redline it to 9,xxxrpm. But hey since you got them apart just might as will shot peen them, and prices ranges from $7-15 buck a rod depending on shops.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dude_123 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You don't have to shot peen gsr rods since they are forged and have a high chromium content in them. To make it you feel better that WD-40 All motor B series shoot out, R&D Dyno who built the 290ish hp motor ran on stock gsr rod and redline it to 9,xxxrpm. But hey since you got them apart just might as will shot peen them, and prices ranges from $7-15 buck a rod depending on shops.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Redlining at 9k? Wow, thats an accomplishment on stock rods. I was told that with my stock GSR rods I couldn't go past 8k. Then again, my buddy had to have his rods shot peened and his bottom end balanced, but he's building an LS/VTEC. I thought I would have to do the same so my motor doesn't blow on me....

on another note, I plan to run the JDM ITR pistons, do I have to clay my motor to run these pistons? I plan to use Buddy Club Spec IV cams....would these cause valve to piston contact? Should I change the cams I plan to use or am I worrying too much?

 

stock rods are shot-peened from the OEM.

 

High revving isn't hard on rods it's on hard on rod bolts so upgrade those instead.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dude_123 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> To make it you feel better that WD-40 All motor B series shoot out, R&D Dyno who built the 290ish hp motor ran on stock gsr rod and redline it to 9,xxxrpm. </TD></TR></TABLE>

You may wish to check your info again as they DID NOT use stock rods. Building a motor to make a few dyno pulls is far different from one you plan on using on the street. And the stock GSR rods are NOT forged, they are powdered metal just like all B series rods, although it is said they are to have a higher chromium content.

These are the rods that were used by R&D cheap $200 rods with cheap 8740 rod bolts.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by slofu &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">stock rods are shot-peened from the OEM.</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

so basically i can drop my pistons in there and not worry about the rods letting go...wat about balancing
? should i pull my crank out and send it out to get balanced along with the pistons and rods? i am putting new bearings in there anyway.

 

ARP rod bolt will be more benefical

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by carboy_honda &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ARP rod bolt will be more benefical</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by carboy_honda &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ARP rod bolt will be more benefical</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Natural Aspirations &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

You may wish to check your info again as they DID NOT use stock rods. Building a motor to make a few dyno pulls is far different from one you plan on using on the street. And the stock GSR rods are NOT forged, they are powdered metal just like all B series rods, although it is said they are to have a higher chromium content.

These are the rods that were used by R&D cheap $200 rods with cheap 8740 rod bolts.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Doh!, RS guys were the ones who used the stock rods, I was putting down info that I recalled, or probably drooling too much about the power they put out and got mixed up.
Couldn't find any solid info of what type of processes made the gsr rod, but I did find that type r rods are forged. This is what I found "Extreme care was taken in the forging and machining of the connecting rods to ensure each engine of a precisely matched set of connecting rods. As in the GS-R, the rods are constructed of special high-strength steel for a rigid yet lightweight component. " -acuranews.com 2000 ITR Archive

 

so wat would yall recommend? cani just drop my pistons in there with my OEM rods? do i have to send out my rods, pistons, and crank to get balanced as one unit?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by slofu &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">stock rods are shot-peened from the OEM.</TD></TR></TABLE>I don't know about that--I have never heard any real evidence that Honda rods were shot peened from the factory. I could be wrong though.

 

If you're using stock rods and stock crank then the factory balance will be fine but as they said get ARP rod bolts...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nonvtecD &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If you're using stock rods and stock crank then the factory balance will be fine but as they said get ARP rod bolts...</TD></TR></TABLE>

so i can pull out my rods and just have the pistons pressed onto the rods? cool....now all i gotta do is get my new set of ACL bearings and I'm set to go.

 

i would say it is safe to use the grs rods. my last car i had a gsr rods and arp rod bolts i reved it to 9500rpm with out any problems.

using the p73's you should not have to clay the motor just do not adjust the cam gears passed 5-7 degrees not sure what the max is.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by slo blue &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i would say it is safe to use the grs rods. my last car i had a gsr rods and arp rod bolts i reved it to 9500rpm with out any problems.

using the p73's you should not have to clay the motor just do not adjust the cam gears passed 5-7 degrees not sure what the max is.</TD></TR></TABLE>


Well, i ask because the guy from Camp1320 told me I might have valve-piston contact if I use the JDM P73...is this true?

 

if you are running stock sized valves and good valve train you should not have to clay the motor.

im using buddy club 4's in a gsr motor with ctr pistons and have not had any problmes.

 

that's wat i plan on using, i wanna run BC Spec IV cams on my mine. I'm upgrading to BC valve springs and retainers. I'm just concerned about piston-valve contact by using those cams and the JDM P73 pistons...but since u used CTRs and Spec IV cams, then I shouldn't have a problem...right?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by slo blue &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">if you are running stock sized valves and good valve train you should not have to clay the motor.

im using buddy club 4's in a gsr motor with ctr pistons and have not had any problmes.</TD></TR></TABLE>]


i ran ctr pistons in a b16 with skunk 2 stage 2 cams and their was piston to valve contact
clay and you will will not regret it