Catchy title huh?
Well I purchased a built motor in August, and Ive been piecing together my swap for a while, gathering things like misc. bolts, the Tranny bracket, header, clutch, etc. I now have everything, and I'm feeling a little wierd about putting this motor in my car thats allready been beet on quite a bit. So I pondered the Idea of rebuilding it, just to re-freshen it with new rings, gaskets, and bearings. When you guys rebuilt your motor(s), how did It go? Run into any problems? any tips for me. Im about to bring the motor into my kitchen to begin the build soon. I plan on using the P73-00 pistons that are in it, and just re-ringing them, that is if the cylinder walls are in good shape.

So to make a long story short. Just give me some tips, and share your experience.

 

Get the workshop manual and follow it dead on.

Every nut and bolt you torqe up, mark it with a pen. Take pictures before dismantling, they can help you when mounting. Look at the exploded view picture in the manual and read carefully what you shall do in order to get things right. Double check when the last part is mounted.

Keep your parts very clean.

Keep your workshop tidy and clean.

Do not do things in a rush, take your time.

Good luck.

 

take it slow, follow directions 100%, and triple check things

 

what kinda engine is this may i ask?

 

This is a b18b1. It has itr pistons, ls rods, ls crank. crower 404,s, double springs, titanium retainers...

 

One of the parts I had difficulties with was getting the pistons in the cylinders with the ring compressor. It took a few tries to get them in and I never really got the hang of it. Everything else is just loosening and tightening bolts and taking measurements.

 

yeah i like to label and organize my engine parts to make the process smoother and hopefully free of unwanted events.

 

I think if you are doing all of this you might as well put in performance pistons, yeah the ITR pistons are great but there is always room for imporvement.

 

Label everything and put it in zip lock bags. That really helped me. TAKE YOUR TIME. I liked to do as much as possible by my self, that way I know its done right.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HonOrthaB &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I think if you are doing all of this you might as well put in performance pistons, yeah the ITR pistons are great but there is always room for imporvement. </TD></TR></TABLE>

MONEY.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by .EnzoSpeed &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Don't do new rings without honing the cylinders...</TD></TR></TABLE>

absolutely,

honestly I wouldn't want to take pistons out without putting in new rings and honing.

but I wouldn't do any of that if it wasn't necessary, I mean, for all you know the engine could be in perfect working condition.

Do a leak down test on it.
the thing doesn't have to be in a car to do that.
that'll tell you how healthy it is.
if it's good, just keep it.

If you're really aching to build a motor(which I can't blame you, I've been wanting to do it for a while myself) then just buy a cheap block elsewhere and build on that!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by s10cky &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

MONEY.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yeah i know deserves some tought tho. Damn we should get them to raise the min wage! heheh

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HonOrthaB &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Yeah i know deserves some tought tho. Damn we should get them to raise the min wage! heheh </TD></TR></TABLE>

LOL, if I was on minimum wage I wouldnt even have this motor. Just work hard!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BlakeJ53 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Label everything and put it in zip lock bags. That really helped me. TAKE YOUR TIME. I liked to do as much as possible by my self, that way I know its done right.</TD></TR></TABLE>

really helps. def get the cylinder walls honed because your new rings won't be like your old rings. wat i mean by that is the rings make "foot print" in the walls after being ran so sticking another set of rings in there won't "fit" the foot print the same way. and make sure you properly gap your rings and install them properly in the right position. and be carefull when installing the rings on the pistons cause they will snap in half real easy. besides that everything is a breeze

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by s10cky &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

LOL, if I was on minimum wage I wouldnt even have this motor. Just work hard! </TD></TR></TABLE>
Hehe yeah I know. Oh and what a coincidence today in the paper is saw that they are trying to raise the min wage by 2.13$ hehehe. oh but there is a catch. business would get some sort of tax cut. damn who knew.

 

THe machine shop I was talking too, was saying they could de-glaze the walls, so no metal is removed.

 

i would just get it honed. since you have to put new rings in and gap them it won't make a difference. plus a simple hone doesn't take much metal off the cylinder walls

 

At what point would he need to bore it?

I'm curious for him and myself. I like the idea of just honing and throwing some P30's in there, but how "out of round" do the cylinders need to be before you hone it? Or is it recommended to hone it regardless.

 

From my knowlege a honing should be done for any build whether using stock pistons or over sized. If your oversized, then ofcourse you bore first to the specifications, then hone to clean it up more and create the cross hatched pattern.

 

you'll know when to get over sized once you put the rings in. it will leave a huge gap even when you haven't filed them down. you really won't know when to get over sized until you start on it. or if you get it bored to 81.5

 

Make sure that you do it with a reputable shop or else you might find yourself doing it more than one time. Ask around.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Brad &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">One of the parts I had difficulties with was getting the pistons in the cylinders with the ring compressor. It took a few tries to get them in and I never really got the hang of it. Everything else is just loosening and tightening bolts and taking measurements.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Were you using the band type? I finally found that the trick is to give the compressor a little squeeze with your hand as you tap the piston down.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BlakeJ53 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Label everything and put it in zip lock bags. That really helped me. TAKE YOUR TIME. I liked to do as much as possible by my self, that way I know its done right.</TD></TR></TABLE>



Also, don't use those blue Scott shop towels. The bastards are way linty.

 

Def. keep up with all the bolts very well!!
I lost a flywheel bolt. So much for my christmas gift to myself
Mabye it will be a new years gift

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 91SiZ6 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Were you using the band type? I finally found that the trick is to give the compressor a little squeeze with your hand as you tap the piston down.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yea I was using the squeeze band type. I was compressing the band pretty good when I was tapping the pistons down. I think it was because the band wasn't always sitting completely flat against the top of the cylinder during each tap.