I am currently debating the G23 build up. I went to my local tuner shop today to get quotes for dynotime and engine machining. I told him I would be using a F23 block and boosting at 8-10 pis. He told me to get a forged crank, forged pistons, and stronger rods to be able to boost at 16+ psi.

Is something like this possible?

If so, would it even be nessesary to bore out cylinders?

Thx for the help.

 

nah, that stuff makes it weaker.

 

Now, I could be wrong, but boreing out a f23 block is going to make the cylinder walls real thin especially for boost? Boost is not usually what kills a bottom end it is usually hp. Forged pistons are going to be much better then stock cast pistons, and H-beam rods are going to be a must too... now the crank I would think can stay stock.

 

of coursed forged pistons and rods will be stronger... and yes they will allow you to make bigger power...

however, the power and reliability is all in the tuning...

i wouldnt bother with the aftermarket crank, its not needed...

and try to keep stock bore if possible... if the cyls are slightly out of round, go with a slight bore, enough to make the cylinders true...

 

Yeah....Honda Cranks are great from the factory.....nothing beats a stock billet crank which most Hondas have.

I feel sorry for all the domestic guys that have to fork out for them when swapping out there cast cranks.

The reliabiltiy is going to be in the tuning. I wouldnt go over too much with the rings on the build to keep the cylinder walls as thick as possible.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hybridEj8 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> keep the cylinder walls as thick as possible.</TD></TR></TABLE>

couldnt agree more...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hybridEj8 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Yeah....Honda Cranks are great from the factory.....nothing beats a stock billet crank which most Hondas have.

I feel sorry for all the domestic guys that have to fork out for them when swapping out there cast cranks.

The reliabiltiy is going to be in the tuning. I wouldnt go over too much with the rings on the build to keep the cylinder walls as thick as possible.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Stock crank isn't billet.

 

my mistake i meant forged

 

alright, thx for the info er-body

 

one more Q.

How do you go about picking out a turbo. I know you must first have an idea of how the car will be driving, lets say drag-for all out power, or auto x-for a wide range of boost.

I would like to see boost almost immediatly, but not so soon that it will stop making power well b4 redline.

What do the turbo sizes mean exactly?