Front Cross Member problem?
The passanger side wheel sits back toward the rear a few inches. Enough to rub on the inner tire wheel well. Does the cross member need to be replace?
Here is a picture. It isn't a very good one.
Here is a picture. It isn't a very good one.
I have the same deal, but it doesnt sit as far back so as to rub. I still dont know what is causing it. I replaced the crossmember with another stock one and it's still the same. The frame appears to be straight. I dunno.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dr_latino999 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Check the REAR crossmember, when you hit a curb it tends to bend.</TD></TR></TABLE>
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dr_latino999 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Check the REAR crossmember, when you hit a curb it tends to bend.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Is there any way to tell if it is the front cross memeber, rear cross member, radius rod, etc. without just replacing them?
Is there any way to tell if it is the front cross memeber, rear cross member, radius rod, etc. without just replacing them?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by KansasKev »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Is there any way to tell if it is the front cross memeber, rear cross member, radius rod, etc. without just replacing them? </TD></TR></TABLE>
Just look at both sides and see if one side is different and bent
Is there any way to tell if it is the front cross memeber, rear cross member, radius rod, etc. without just replacing them? </TD></TR></TABLE>
Just look at both sides and see if one side is different and bent
Bump. I've been thinking about this issue of the REAR crossmember, and I'm not quite sure how this would cause the "wheel shifted back" problem. My reasoning for this is because the outer part of the lower control arm is connected to the FRONT crossmember through the radius rod. If, somehow, the rear crossmember bent back, the outer part of the LCA would still be held in place. I think this would definitely cause alignment issues, but I'm not sure how that would make the wheel shifted back in the wheel well. Hopefully what I'm saying makes some sense. Anyone have any ideas?
In the factory service manual, under body specifications, there is a diagram for frame reapir...it has all the factory spec point-to-point measurements. Get a nice tape measure and go to town. If your measurements don't match the manual, then something is bent/damaged.
I removed the front crossmember with the radius rods. The passanger side(pic above) didn't appear to be bent but the bushings were very messed up. The driver side rr was bent. The actual crossmember didn't looked bent, but it does have some dents in it.
I plan on doing an A6 turbo(200-250hp) in the near future. I am wondering if I should buy an performance crossmember or traction bars???
I plan on doing an A6 turbo(200-250hp) in the near future. I am wondering if I should buy an performance crossmember or traction bars???
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by KansasKev »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I plan on doing an A6 turbo(200-250hp) in the near future. I am wondering if I should buy an performance crossmember or traction bars???</TD></TR></TABLE>
Wouldn't hurt to get a traction bar to a) help with any turbo clearance issues and b) prevent wheel hop once you turbo it.
I plan on doing an A6 turbo(200-250hp) in the near future. I am wondering if I should buy an performance crossmember or traction bars???</TD></TR></TABLE>
Wouldn't hurt to get a traction bar to a) help with any turbo clearance issues and b) prevent wheel hop once you turbo it.
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