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Could anyone please help me with this,
how would i go about hooking up vtec to a switch?
I am well aware of the precautions of what could happen to my motor but at the current
moment i dont have the money for a new ecu, and i think a vtec switch would be pretty
cool, so any help in explaining this would be great thx.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hatch96y7 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i think u forgot to add some sarcasim in ur post syndacate
whats wrong with u are u sick?
so whats up with the light</TD></TR></TABLE>
If some nooblet wants to roast his D16 because he's too stupid to understand the concept of VTEC, fine by me .
BTW, I ask what's your motor and you tell me the series and displacement..
You respond with, D16
That doesn't tell me **** except for the fact that it's a D series motor and it's a 1.6L No difference between the Y7 and the Y8 except you know.....VTEC 'n, 20+hp, 'n all.
So I ask again, what's your motor?
I'm going to assume it's a Z6 or Y8.
Doubt it's a JDM D15 or a ZC.
SO with that outta the way...******* BUY A P28.
Do you ACTUALLY understand what VTEC is? It engages at a certain point so your car could run better, it switches the cam lobes that open/close the valves so your car could run more efficiently.
It's NOT supposed to be turned on at free will. That's why it's setup like it is.
You're gonna ******* roast your engine because the certain lobes are good for certain RPM, that's why you can't just "leave VTEC on all the time" - it's a higher band power maker, not a lower one, and vice versa with the non-VTEC lobes.
****.
As somebody said before and I don't remember who said it so I'm just stating that somebody else said it, not me. Paraphrased:
"Having a VTEC switch is like having a hardon switch for your dick. Sure it would be great and fun to have, but some things are just meant to work naturally."
With that said, you've watched the fast and the furious too many ******* times.
You're not gonna be neck and neck w/ some Viper and hit your "VTEC" button on the steering wheel and roast 'em, tiers spinning 'n all.
God, somebody get me that fake Dyno chart of "VTAKKK."
Buy a VTEC ECU, work your motor properly.
Wouldn't be able to tell u what ECU you have b/c I don't know what motor you have...
Why would you want to have it on a button. youll have like a diference of 5hp max, and in other spots when you think your cool and hit it you wont gain ****.
aside from that, someone correct me if im wrong, vtec works/engages off of several things, speed, rpm, oil pressure. Id let the ecu do the engaging and give up on your rice dream.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Turbo_y8 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">WTF
Why would you want to have it on a button. youll have like a diference of 5hp max, and in other spots when you think your cool and hit it you wont gain ****.
aside from that, someone correct me if im wrong, vtec works/engages off of several things, speed, rpm, oil pressure. Id let the ecu do the engaging and give up on your rice dream.</TD></TR></TABLE>
True and false.
The second part is true, the first part is false. You will NOT gain even 5hp. Reason being is as the car sits as a stock setup, the VTEC is already set to engage and give off the highest power possible. If you change your setup, that's the only time VTEC engagement point changing becomes plausible.
So it'll just be bad for him all around, won't be "okay" in any places.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Turbo_y8 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">well have to check back at this joke of a thread tomorrow seeing this clown can only post 5 times a day, he is maxed out.
in for more laugh's tomorrow</TD></TR></TABLE>
DAMMIT.
Seriously, I wanted to see the post backs - dammit dammit dammit.
Yeah bad Idea with the switch. It also has diff. fuel and ignition maps that it runs when VTAKK is engaged. Like all of the other brethen said, BUY A P28 and do it the right way. Impatience will end up costing you in the long run.
if its bad to have vtec in gaged all te time y do they make vtech killa camshafts
isnt it to make more power or is skunk 2 just a bunch of monkeys in a ball
Toda makes them. And THat is for a high rpm race motor. Like putting a big *** 404 0r 405 crower cam in a LS. Toda v-tec killers make alot of high end, not so much low end. And you would not be running them with a stock ecu either.
Years later some guy from the 90's answers this question.
Hooking up the VTEC RPM switch: If you opted for the VTEC controller like you should have then follow the instructions that came with it. If you're cheap like me and got the RPM switch, start saving your money for a VTEC controller, 'cause you'll probably end up buying one later...(I did). I bought a Summit Racing RPM activating switch from Summit Racing for like $40, so I am assuming you did the same. If you got a different RPM switch then I'm not sure if this will be the same, but I can't imagine why not. Just letting ya know. The Summit RPM switch actually throws a ground signal when the desired RPM is met, so you will have to wire up a relay to change that negative graound to a +12 volts. Here is how to do it:
Go down to your local radio shack and pick up a standard auto relay. I believe they only carry one, so you can't go wrong. It'll cost ya about $5. Here is a schematic of how to wire it:
when you set the RPM with the dip switches, you must remember that Summit Racing tends to cater to 'Merican made auomobiles, and V8's are the SH*T, so they have also assumed that you too own an 'Merican made automobile with a big fuel sucking V8 under the hood, and have designed the RPM switch to work that way. Since you only have four lonely cylinders, you will need to divide the number you want the RPM to kick in at by 2. Example: you want it to kick in at 4400 RPM, then set it to 2200 RPM with the dip switches...get the idea?
Years later some guy from the 90's answers this question.
Hooking up the VTEC RPM switch: If you opted for the VTEC controller like you should have then follow the instructions that came with it. If you're cheap like me and got the RPM switch, start saving your money for a VTEC controller, 'cause you'll probably end up buying one later...(I did). I bought a Summit Racing RPM activating switch from Summit Racing for like $40, so I am assuming you did the same. If you got a different RPM switch then I'm not sure if this will be the same, but I can't imagine why not. Just letting ya know. The Summit RPM switch actually throws a ground signal when the desired RPM is met, so you will have to wire up a relay to change that negative graound to a +12 volts. Here is how to do it:
Go down to your local radio shack and pick up a standard auto relay. I believe they only carry one, so you can't go wrong. It'll cost ya about $5. Here is a schematic of how to wire it:
when you set the RPM with the dip switches, you must remember that Summit Racing tends to cater to 'Merican made auomobiles, and V8's are the SH*T, so they have also assumed that you too own an 'Merican made automobile with a big fuel sucking V8 under the hood, and have designed the RPM switch to work that way. Since you only have four lonely cylinders, you will need to divide the number you want the RPM to kick in at by 2. Example: you want it to kick in at 4400 RPM, then set it to 2200 RPM with the dip switches...get the idea?
If this RPM switch is a proper solution, how does it communicate with the factory ECU ? If you are using a non-vtec ECU, how does the engine receive the proper fuel and ignition values when you transition to the high cam ?
If this RPM switch is a proper solution, how does it communicate with the factory ECU ? If you are using a non-vtec ECU, how does the engine receive the proper fuel and ignition values when you transition to the high cam ?
But....VTEC on a switch!!!!!! Then you have the power to control the almighty VTEC!!!!!
how to wire vtec to a switch...??
New ECU 
.
