can anyone tell me how they got their ES trailing arm bushing into the oem metal ring? cant get it to go in.

 

i had the arm off the car when i did it a long time ago, i just pressed them in with my foot and they went right in.

but i dont run poly in the RTA anymore. it doesn't allow the same movement along the axis in which the OEM pieces or sphericals would; they bind on one or more of the axis.

 

hmm....when you did it with your foot, did you grease it up?
and what do you mean when you say they bind? ive heard this before, but i dont know what that means

 

The rear trailing arms are meant to "roll" as the upper & lower control arms change camber through the suspensions range of motion. The poly piece is too stiff and thick and doesn't allow this rolling action. Stock rubber rolls easily because it can twist & flex similar to a spherical bearing with relative ease. In addition, the further away from 0-camber the trailing arm goes, the more the T/A bushing resists until the suspension finally binds. This will eventually cause the shaft in the center of the bushing to tear/deform the poly part. Also, keep in mind lowered cars usually have more negative camber at ride height, so they are ALWAYS putting stress on the bushing. Fortunately, lowered cars usually have harder springs that don't allow as much suspension movement. You may want to try the "washer trick" to zero out rear camber when you install these bushings....

I have only heard of people experiencing binding problems on the racetrack where cornering loads are significantly higher (faster speeds & stickier tires), or over bumps during hard cornering on the street. You WILL know if the suspension binds...

 

i have the washers in already, and my drop is only 1.8" all around. pretty much no camber issues. what does it feel like when it "binds"?

 

Like wheel hop but faster...

 

wheel hop? thats in the front. we are talking about rear here. do you mean when the car is sliding sideways it will hop on one wheel? cuz thats what used to happen with my stock TA bushings when i had my 22 mm progress sway bar in.

 

think instead of progressive oversteer in the rear, you'll have 'snap' oversteer--oversteer that isn't easibly correctable because its so sudden. Also, when hard braking it could cause a 'snap' situation and upset the balance very abruptly.

 

wow. that is really good info. hanx guys. now im not sure if i even wanna put these in. might just go with the oem bushing. theyre so expensive though. i guess its worth it.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by beav &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">wheel hop? thats in the front. we are talking about rear here.</TD></TR></TABLE>

is it that hard to understand that he said its "like" wheel hop.

the same feeling that you get from wheel hop but in the back of the car in a sideways force.....

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by goldegg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

is it that hard to understand that he said its "like" wheel hop.

the same feeling that you get from wheel hop but in the back of the car in a sideways force.....</TD></TR></TABLE>

hey smart ***...why dont YOU explain to me what wheel hop on rear wheels feels like on a front wheel drive car?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by beav &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

hey smart ***...why dont YOU explain to me what wheel hop on rear wheels feels like on a front wheel drive car?</TD></TR></TABLE>

I just did in the post I made previous to yours.

 

snap oversteer? i've never had that kind of over steer in my civic

 

I use the term 'snap' loosely (no pun intended hehe); what I mean to describe is a sudden bout of oversteer that is not smoothly controllable.

I know that our civics favor understeer, but there are things such as worn bushings, binding, and alignment settings that can cause a sudden, unsmooth, and and ultimately not very controllable bout of oversteer. The sudden shift of weight, if and when the rear suspension binds (and not just from poly RTA bushings per se) will upset the balance of the car and cause unpredictable handling. At least this is how I've always thought of it. Someone correct me if I'm wrong.

 

oh so this isnt from experience? you just assume this?

so if i could have someone really explain if this is true or not and give me the how and why's to it all.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by beav &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">wheel hop? thats in the front. we are talking about rear here. do you mean when the car is sliding sideways it will hop on one wheel? cuz thats what used to happen with my stock TA bushings when i had my 22 mm progress sway bar in.</TD></TR></TABLE>

It doesn't necissarily have to do with turning. If you know what wheel hop feels like, just imagine that same feeling in the rear (duh!). Lets say you go through some kind of dip and the excessive suspension compression causes binding. Don't worry, your gonna feel it!

 

all the points on the cars we drive that have a bushing. ALL move on more then one axis. If something only moved on one axis then you wouldn't need a bushing. The OEM rubber allows some movement on more then one axis, but doesn't offer complete free range of movement. Adding a poly bushing to any suspension point, just binds things up more then they were with stock rubber.

So if you want your suspension to work, i would just replace it with OEM rubber. Or you could not allow it to work and bind it up by installing poly bushings.

 

don't use the polly, i also had a bad experience with it, changed to spherical bearings in the TA and problem was gone, the car was dangerous at high speeds over small bumps, rear would be very loose.

 

hmm...you guys are starting to freak me out....i like high speeds...and new york is FULL of little bumps

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SiRay13 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">don't use the polly, i also had a bad experience with it, changed to spherical bearings in the TA and problem was gone, the car was dangerous at high speeds over small bumps, rear would be very loose. </TD></TR></TABLE>

I experienced the exact same thing with my poly trailing arm bushing. Once I swapped to the mugen part, I never experienced the issue again. I am glad I took that ES bushing out, its worthless.

 

so something like highspeed funkyness cant be cured with a wing?

i really wish the track here was still open so i could go and try some things out

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by marshun &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">so something like highspeed funkyness cant be cured with a wing?

i really wish the track here was still open so i could go and try some things out </TD></TR></TABLE>

huge difference between suspension working and aero calming it down at high speeds, as compared to a suspension that is binding and causing the issue.