Hi, I've been browsing through honda-tech since 2003 and made a screen name in late 2005. Mostly I've been reading the all motor forum as I was planning on building my 92 Civic hatchback with GSR. Turns out, I just put in sk2s1 cams with the sk2 valvetrain and I wasn't really satisfied with the power. Fortunately, someone came out of the shadows and offered me 7,500 for my hatchback. With that money, I had an opportunity to either go towards N/A again or have a taste of F/I. I chose the latter. Now I need you folks help in assisting me with my new turbo set up.

I picked up a 95 Integra LS with 83,xxx miles on the motor and chassis. It runs perfect and the only thing that needs to be changed so far is the clutch. I already bought a exedy stage 1 clutch for it. Alright, here is the setup I bought for my turbo set up so far:

-Drag manifold
-Garrett T3/T4 Turbo (don't know the exact specs)
-Deltagate wastegate with dumptube
-Blitz SS bov
-2.5" downpipe
-Drag kit intercooler
-all couplers and t-bolts
-all polished intercooler piping
-autometer a/f gauge
-autometer boost gauge
-autometer oil pressure gauge
-blitz sbc electronic boost controller
-blitz turbo timer
-AEM fuel rail
-AEM fuel filter
-RC 440cc injectors
-MSD inline fuel pump

This is all I can remember off the top of my head. From what I read over the past months in the forced induction section, I've come to assume that missing links, fmu, and the use of hacks aren't as favorable so I've decided to spend some money for a programmable ecu or a standalone. I'm leaning to whoever tunes my car is more comfortable with. So far, I'm considering Hondata s300, Crome, Uberdata, and I have a deal with an APEXi Power FC. The only thing about the FC is I have to get a OBD1-OBD2 jumper harness or convert to OBD2.

Something else I planned is, I will probably switch out my deltagate since I've read that it isn't as favorable as a Tial WG. I read that the Drag manifold's designed is flawed by their placement of the WG but I will stick to that for now since I already have it. My questinn is, since I'm going to be purchasing a tial WG, what size should I get? I'm planning on running 7-8PSI maximum since this is going to be my daily driver. Someone suggested that I get a Tial 38mm with a 0.25 bar spring ~3-4 PSI spring. Is this information accurate?

Finally, with the inline fuel pump, I plan on swapping that out in favor of an intank fuel pump such as a Walbro 255lph. Is this a wise decision? This was recommended to me by a fellow boosted Integra here in Hawaii. Well, I will apperciate any feedback and criticism as I am new and open to learn more about being booster. Thanks everyone in advanced

 

Well welcome to boost, its going to be alot of fun when you finish up. But yes the walbro fuel pump would be a good choice. Also just get the EMS that your tuner is most comfertable with.

 

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-Drag manifold - spend more money on that one, best if one piece SS cast iron
-Garrett T3/T4 Turbo (don't know the exact specs) - figure out how much hp you want to make. getting the right size can really improve response and overall powerband
-Deltagate wastegate with dumptube - don't skimp on that one, get something like turbosmart or at least tial for best results
-Blitz SS bov - no need to get fancy on this one, any cheap bov will do the job. hks sequantial works better for low and high boost
-2.5" downpipe - stainless steel will last longer
-Drag kit intercooler - you might be better of with thicker ebay intercooler and at lower price
-all couplers and t-bolts
-all polished intercooler piping - polished or not, lean towards aluminum, handles heat better and no rust
-autometer a/f gauge - won't tell you anything than 14.7 a/f ratio, but it will tell you if you're running lean or lower than 14.7 - so its better than nothing.
-autometer boost gauge - not really needed
-autometer oil pressure gauge - something is better than nothing, if you have more money towards gauges, get oil/coolant temp, fuel pressure (so you know your fuel is there)
-blitz sbc electronic boost controller - has peak/memory feature, so you don't really need a boost gauge if using EBC
-blitz turbo timer - absolute waiste of money and fuel an precios rpm
-AEM fuel rail - people make hundreds of hp using stock fuel rail with no problems
-AEM fuel filter - whats wrong with oem? oem quality is the best
-RC 440cc injectors - will depend on how much hp you're trying to make
-MSD inline fuel pump - if you're not goign to use fmu, then get intank like 255 high pressure walbro

side notes - at 83k, its quite a lot of miles on the engine. even if its new. you have to have $$$$ aside for rebuild. **** happens and there no point of boosting if you can't rebuild.

bolts - use at least grade 10 bolts, where possible use grade 12.5

additional parts - fuel pressure regulator might come in handy

more side notes:
use oil resistant and high pressure lines for return/feed line. you can't just use anything

get slim high flow fans - you might have to replace at least one to make room for turbo parts. radiator type doesn't really matter (i'd go for cheapest one) unless you're going to circuit race. just make sure its new enough. you might want to replace the one you got if its still the original.

ventilation - don't skimp this one. i see people selling there setups with stock pcv valve connected to IM.. talk about back pressure. the more hp your push the more vents you need to have. proper ventilatoin is the key!!!

dont' forget to upgrade the rest of exhuast to 2.5-3" or more depending on hp goal.

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Thanks man, any more replies are welcomed. I have another question that just popped up. I will be getting the turbo installed by my friend but the tuner I'm going to take her to is about 50 miles away or so. Is it safe or ok to drive my car with just the turbo with out no tune or without a missing link, fmu, hack or anything to the place I'm going to tune it? If anything, I probably might take home my car first then get it tuned at another day. Is it safe to drive around without a tune, even if I don't stay in boost?

 

Yeah, its safe as long as the stock injectors are in and you are running no boost. You can take the spring out of the wastegate and you won't build up boost. Keep it at low RPMs too.