I get about 16-17 MPG, is that good? I get about 210 miles off the whole tank and I wonder is that normal for a GSR with just intake/exhaust mods. I just did a complete tune up (timing belt/tensioner/waterpump/dis. & cap/ spark plugs/wires) and I am getting 16-17 mpg... Personal, I think it's bad, but can anyone think of any idea why I am getting these mileage of a tank or is it normal?

 

I have more mods than that and pull about 27 if I drive normal.

 

Defenitly something wrong. I'm running about 250 average on a tank and I have some things wrong with mine. Lost compression, burning about a quart of oil a week and blowing black smoke, and still get better than what you're getting. Is it burning oil at all? Smoking? anything out of the ordinary? I have a '94 GSR with i/h/e BTW.
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i get the same gas mileage as you (roughly) if i beat the **** out of my car for most of the tank. except i have turbo running at 8.5 PSI with an insane tune. something's wrong with your car as previous user posted.

 

Well, I have a feeling the thermostat is stuck 1/2 open, but my car can warms up in the morning, but the temp goes down right above cold when I go on the freeway where I get ram air. That's why I am not sure do to the fact that I can warm up in the morning, but temp goes down while on freeway, any idea why?

 

Yea I am having the same prob with mine right now but I have a mant required light on. I am thinking it is a o2 prob. Did you replace those?

 

im averaging 18.9 mpg with my 1994 ls with just an intake.

i drive pretty spiritedly and mostly short trips around town.

 

No, how can I test the O2 to make sure before I replace it? You think it's giving bad reading to the ecu where it's dumping more fuel than it's needed? I don't have smoke coming out of my tailpipe. My compression is good, not burning oil, and no vacuum leaks. I used the four gas analyzer a few weeks ago. I have like 1-2 CO% and idle: HC 500-675 PPM, is that normal?


Modified by 95GSRBOI at 9:58 PM 12/11/2006

 

Yea and I dont know if you have priced o2's for our cars. But they are not easy on the pocket!!!!!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jeb97gsr &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Yea I am having the same prob with mine right now but I have a mant required light on. I am thinking it is a o2 prob. Did you replace those? </TD></TR></TABLE>

the maintanace required light is not the same thing as a CEL...just so you know..the MRL comes on at certain mileage intervals and not when theres a problem

 

thanks man. I hoped that helped this guy out also

 

I have OBD1. Therefore, I don't have maintenance light. Currently, I don't have a Mil. If it's the 02 sensor , wouldn't my MIL light comes on due to faulty emission?

 

i dont have an gsr but used to have an ls all stock, i was able to get about 350 miles total on the highway. it had about 160,000 on it.

 

i get around 310 to the tank with my 95 gsr. And i do drive it spiritly often since its turbo.

 

I've got I/H/E, throttle body, ITR cams, cam gears, and a mild P&P, and get between 320 and 340miles per tank, about 30-31mpg mostly freeway going about 80mph. Except in the afternoon because of traffic, its anywhere between 0mph and 80 lol.

oh, that's with 194,000+ miles. I did have the fluctuating temperature a couple of years back, and it was a radiator leak at the top end tank. since the leak was at teh top, I didn't run dry, just a little bit low, and the system could never build proper pressure to stabalize the temps. new radiator fixed the problem. a year later, I replaced the T-stat, and now the car warms up much faster than before and the needle doesn't move at all.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 95GSRBOI &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Well, I have a feeling the thermostat is stuck 1/2 open, but my car can warms up in the morning, but the temp goes down right above cold when I go on the freeway where I get ram air. That's why I am not sure do to the fact that I can warm up in the morning, but temp goes down while on freeway, any idea why? </TD></TR></TABLE>

I use to have the same problem but i changed the thermostat and that fixed it. Witht he thermostat making your car temperature go back down to cold, your motor will push out more gasoline just like when you first start your car.

A few weeks ago, my temperature gauge wasn't working so it stayed on cold. So i was getting around 220 miles per tank. The moment i fixed it, it went up to 300+ mile per tank.

 

I have 210k miles on my ls motor and do about 300 miles to a tank. I'll reset the trip gauge every time I fill all the way up. Usually the needle marks empty at around 260, so that way I know. I'm pretty sure I could get around 350, if I drove it all the way to empty.

I drive pretty slow though, I'll max out the speed limit at about 5 over, and the car is 100% stock.

 

I normally get around 27-29 mpg, worst I ever got was 22mpg and that was beause I was driving hard.

Check your fuel lines as well because I just had to fix mine, I had a small leak which caused mpg to drop slowly week after week.

 

1994 GSR with intake, header, exhaust, ctr intake cam, skunk2 IM..... on the stock GSR ecu- 27 mpg both hwy and city driving. Using a chipped p28 with one of my custom base maps, I get anywhere from 26-32mpg depending on traffic.

 

I'm OBD1 and i have a maintanance light.

 

So, you think my thermostat is the problem? Dang, I wish I had just replace the thermostat along with the timing belt and water pump. Now I have to take apart everything just like a timing belt job just to get to the t-stat. I think that really suck. anyone know a short cut where I can get it done fast? Write up or something..Thanks

 

25-26 mpg in mixed driving around town, 30-33 mpg on a long-distance trip.

'94 GS-R, bone stock.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 95GSRBOI &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Now I have to take apart everything just like a timing belt job just to get to the t-stat. I think that really suck. anyone know a short cut where I can get it done fast? Write up or something..Thanks</TD></TR></TABLE>

No, the thermostat is on the other side of the motor above the transmission, toward the back. just follow your upper radiator hose.

No need to mess with the timing belt, that's only if you are changing the water pump.

 

all freeway continuously = 350+ miles and my tank is not even empty (yellow gas light didnt even come on).

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 95GSRBOI &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">No, how can I test the O2 to make sure before I replace it? You think it's giving bad reading to the ecu where it's dumping more fuel than it's needed? I don't have smoke coming out of my tailpipe. My compression is good, not burning oil, and no vacuum leaks. I used the four gas analyzer a few weeks ago. I have like 1-2 CO% and idle: HC 500-675 PPM, is that normal?


Modified by 95GSRBOI at 9:58 PM 12/11/2006</TD></TR></TABLE>

what's your co2 and o2 readings?? 500 ppm for HC is too much. and so it CO. from what i've learned, CO should be around .5 and HC should be 50-80 ppm. and o2 would be around .5 and co2 would be around 14%+ your car is running rich. maybe fpr? or biased lean o2 sensors?