idle problems
car: 95 accord lx f22b2.
Problem: ilde jumps when car warms up anywhere from 1200-1500 rpm is that my idle control valve, if can help it would be appreciated thank you,
SORRY DONT WORRY ABOUT THIS SHOULD OF DONE A SEARCH BE FOR POSTING BUT THANK YOU
Modified by h23acc0rd at 11:41 AM 12/11/2006
Problem: ilde jumps when car warms up anywhere from 1200-1500 rpm is that my idle control valve, if can help it would be appreciated thank you,
SORRY DONT WORRY ABOUT THIS SHOULD OF DONE A SEARCH BE FOR POSTING BUT THANK YOU
Modified by h23acc0rd at 11:41 AM 12/11/2006
i cleaned the IAC and it still does this, my radiator cracked the other week and i pluged that up i dont know if i have a air pocket in there or not i dont know how to bleed the cooling system. but after i cleand the IAC i checked all my vacume lines and it still jumps around. when i have it running when i unplug the IAC the idle drops some and still jumps not much but it does. when i hit the gas it stops and idles at 1100-1200rpm i dont know what is wrong with it. help me thanks alot
It could easily be your throttle position sensor (TPS) -- that's what it was in my case with the same problem. Start by unplugging its electrical connection. If that helps, you have found the problem.
You may have to buy the whole throttle body to get the sensor, if it is built like one unit, as on my 92. In that case, your best bet is a salvage yard -- in your city or online, including eBay. New ones are expensive as heck. Good luck.
If you replace the throttle body, make sure to have a GOOD gasket, otherwise you will have an airleak -- and a worse idle problem.
Don't forget to set the idle speed and to reset your computer afterwards, with the brown 7.5 amp. fuse.
You may have to buy the whole throttle body to get the sensor, if it is built like one unit, as on my 92. In that case, your best bet is a salvage yard -- in your city or online, including eBay. New ones are expensive as heck. Good luck.
If you replace the throttle body, make sure to have a GOOD gasket, otherwise you will have an airleak -- and a worse idle problem.
Don't forget to set the idle speed and to reset your computer afterwards, with the brown 7.5 amp. fuse.
there alittle different the IAC is located in the front of the h23 throttle body. but my brother told me that it could also be the EGR valve just cloged to. im going to try and check that first and see what that does if anyone else says it is it could be that to. cuz i dont want to just go and start taking parts off cuz i dont have the money right now for gaskets and stuff.
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well im looking at my throttle bodys now and they to look the same but exept for one thing the h23 throttle body doesnt have a spot for the MAP sensor on top of it like the f22 one. first one is a pic of f22 second one is one of h23 would i be able to just take a hose and put from the h23 throttle body and to my MAP sensor.
http://i17.ebayimg.com/04/i/000/7e/f5/ecf7_1_b.JPG
http://i16.ebayimg.com/06/i/000/7e/f5/c479_1_b.JPG
Modified by h23acc0rd at 10:37 AM 12/15/2006
http://i17.ebayimg.com/04/i/000/7e/f5/ecf7_1_b.JPG
http://i16.ebayimg.com/06/i/000/7e/f5/c479_1_b.JPG
Modified by h23acc0rd at 10:37 AM 12/15/2006
Well, it might work, if you can rig it up. (Autozone sells the gasket for about $2)
Before you would do anything else, start the car, let it idle, unplug the TPS electrical connection. If the idle smoothes out, you found the problem. If not, it could be something else.
You can do the same thing with the EGR valve, once the engine is WARM. If it runs OK with the vacuum hose disconnected, that is the faulty component. There should be NO vacuum in the hose with a COLD engine. If there is (Put your finger up to it), the SOLENOID controlling the EGR valve is bad, at the other end of the hose.
Good luck.
Before you would do anything else, start the car, let it idle, unplug the TPS electrical connection. If the idle smoothes out, you found the problem. If not, it could be something else.
You can do the same thing with the EGR valve, once the engine is WARM. If it runs OK with the vacuum hose disconnected, that is the faulty component. There should be NO vacuum in the hose with a COLD engine. If there is (Put your finger up to it), the SOLENOID controlling the EGR valve is bad, at the other end of the hose.
Good luck.
i started it up and unpluged the TPS and it ran the same so i dont think it was that. after that i unplugged the ICV and the idle droped to about 990 thats still high it used to idle about 750-780. and i know the egr valve is bad cuz it was bad when i bought the car just never got around to replace it.
You've already diagnosed your own problem.. I wouldn't even listen to other people.. Most of these guys don't even know what they're talking about.. Just because it happend to them doesn't mean you should go and replace your throttle body and such.. You already said that you have an idling problem.. You also stated that your radiator has a crack in it and went on saying that you don't know how to properly bleed it..
So in other words.. Air in the cooling system is the first thing to check when there's an idling problem, esepcially in older cars.. Well is there air in our cooling system, I'm pretty sure since you've got a crack in your radiator.. Start with that, the free stuff is the easiest.. All you have to do is get yourself gallon of premixed coolant and 12mm socket, I prefer a swivel socket.. Crack open your bleeder screw, it should be located by your thermostat, just follow the lower radiator hose towards your throttle body.. Then pour the coolant into the radiator and watch as all the air escapes from the bleeder screw.. Keep pouring in coolant until you see a steady stream come out of the bleeder screw, you've gotten out as much as you can. Tighten the bleeder screw while coolant is still running out of it, don't overtighten it, it can break off.. Then turn your car on with the AC and blower motor off.. Let it run till the thermostat opens twice.. You'll know this happens when the cooling fan cycles on/off.. Just let it cycle twice.. After your done, don't forget to fill the overflow reservoir to the max line.. If you still have idle problems after that, it's time to diagnose it properly.. As for your EGR valve, it's not going to cause any idle problems.. All it will do is give you a hard start or stall after starting..
Now I'm not saying that all the guys here don't know what they're talking about, I'm just saying that you should always trust your instincts first.. The damn car is sitting in front of you, not us...
So in other words.. Air in the cooling system is the first thing to check when there's an idling problem, esepcially in older cars.. Well is there air in our cooling system, I'm pretty sure since you've got a crack in your radiator.. Start with that, the free stuff is the easiest.. All you have to do is get yourself gallon of premixed coolant and 12mm socket, I prefer a swivel socket.. Crack open your bleeder screw, it should be located by your thermostat, just follow the lower radiator hose towards your throttle body.. Then pour the coolant into the radiator and watch as all the air escapes from the bleeder screw.. Keep pouring in coolant until you see a steady stream come out of the bleeder screw, you've gotten out as much as you can. Tighten the bleeder screw while coolant is still running out of it, don't overtighten it, it can break off.. Then turn your car on with the AC and blower motor off.. Let it run till the thermostat opens twice.. You'll know this happens when the cooling fan cycles on/off.. Just let it cycle twice.. After your done, don't forget to fill the overflow reservoir to the max line.. If you still have idle problems after that, it's time to diagnose it properly.. As for your EGR valve, it's not going to cause any idle problems.. All it will do is give you a hard start or stall after starting..
Now I'm not saying that all the guys here don't know what they're talking about, I'm just saying that you should always trust your instincts first.. The damn car is sitting in front of you, not us...
ok now i have a another problem, i figured i needed a thermostat cuz i didnt have any heat so i went and changed that and fixed my radiator for temparary till i get the money for a new one so there is no more leak. i started it up and let it sit till operating temp. fluid did come out of the bleeder but i still dont have heat. my upper and lower radiator hose gets hot after 10 min of run time but the hoses to the heater are cold like fluid isnt getting there i dont know what it is could they be clogged but they would still get hot tho i dont understand it PLEASE HELP ME
Modified by h23acc0rd at 11:32 AM 12/18/2006
Modified by h23acc0rd at 11:32 AM 12/18/2006
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