Head: y7 non vtec
valves- stock 3angle valve job
spring/retainers- stock
cam- stock
Headstuds- ARP ARP-208-4305
headgasket- OEM gasket
seals- OEM

Block: D16y7
rods- Eagle CRS5394H3D
Pistons- JE/SRP 149208 9.0:1 75mm bore dish (ball hone)
bearings- OEM modified to fix oil problems
block guard- GBG103 Golden Eagle

Tranny: EX
Clutch- ACT HC5-HD00 2100 HD w/ street disc
Flywheel bolts- ARP-208-2801
Axles- New stock
EX tranny swap

Ignition:
Cap- MSD MSD-82921
Coil- MSD 8202 Blaster2
Wires- MSD MSD-32359

Fuel:
Rail- Y8 fuel rail
Injectors- DSM 450cc w/ resistor box
Fuel pump- wally 190 install kit 400-846
FPR- AEM AVM-25-304R
Filter- OEM

FI:
Turbo- Garrett T3/TO4E .42 .48
IC- 24x12x2.5
BOV- Greddy RS
Piping- 2 1/4" piping
IM- Y8 IM 99-00 auto tranny EX manifold

Tuning:
SAFC-II
Wideband- AEM O2 AVM-30-4100

Exhaust:
Manifold T3 flange- $200 Keeps A/C
custom downpipe

Gauges:
EGT- autometer UL ATM-4343
Boost- autometer UL ATM-4301
Oil - autometer UL electric ATM-4327
Water- autmoeter UL ATM-4337

Tires:
205/50-15 BFGoodrich g-Force T/A KDW-2 $90x4 tirerack

Brake:
Rotors: powerslot PSR-525PSR & PSR-525PSL

Suspension:
rear struts- KYB AGXKYB-741024
front struts- KYB AGX KYB-741023
Springs- Eibach prokit EIB-4018-140
Rear Trailing Arm bushing- ENS-16-7106R
Front End links- ENS-16-8104R
Front Control Arm bushing- ENS-16-3114R
Front Camber Kit- Blox

misc:
Waterpump- OEM
Oil pump- OEM Modified to fix oil problems
Gaskets- OEM (intake, TB, exhaust)
Timing belt- OEM

The entire build shopping for parts will run me between 4-5k, Setup should be good for some 13 second passes and 200whp. I only plan to run 8psi and tune it on an AFC. No need for any other tuning equipment.

Any opinions other than what tuning setup I am running? Excuse me if any of these things sound stupid. I have only been in the Honda scene for a few days now. I am looking for a place online where I can order Honda OEM parts for really cheap!

Please no comments saying "do a swap" and such. I am trying to keep OBDII ECU for inspection reasons. If I wanted to make real power from a honda, I would swap, sleeve, boost, and call it a day. I am just trying to get the car to 200whp and 13 seconds reliable. Thats all it will ever need.


Modified by krkline2gdsm at 9:18 PM 12/10/2006


Modified by krkline2gdsm at 9:19 PM 12/10/2006


Modified by krkline2gdsm at 9:31 PM 12/10/2006

 

sounds like a AWSOME setup . Will this be you daily driver or just a track car? The only thing I would recomend would be to use OEM bearings .

 

I'd change the tuning method, and wouldn't go with that light of a flywheel, but that sounds like a rather nice build.

 

honestly speaking, that's WAY too far of a build if you're only running 8 psi. MANY ppl put down power in the low 200 range (200-240) on stock block D series at 10 psi or so on a T3 and have almost no reliability problems besides the HG (head lift is common, get some arps to cure this).

But great setup either way, just saying if you're gonna build it use it to its full potential!

 

oh, and check out turbod16.com for any info you might need. I ran 10 psi for over two years on a 18G z6 motor with no problems, i just had a cometic HG (slightly thicker than stock) and arp head bolts, NOTHING else. The engine never blew either or anything, i just sold the coupe and bought the sol, which has now been running 8 psi on a 15G for 6 months, again no trouble. Spend your money on a great tune adn you'll have a reliable ride, no matter the conditions. Good luck!

 

just keep the head stock..you're not even going with any porting or a bigger cam

 

I was thinking about leaving the head stock. 3angle valve job with new seals and such. How do stock valves like more heat?

I agree I can slap on a 50 trim or 57 trim with hondata or crome and call it a day making 12 second passes but this isnt what I am trying to do. Lets just take it one step at a time guys and see how this goes. Maybe next year....

 

Why you say not use a lightend flywheel? Whats wrong with it?

When you guys give your opinions, please support them with some sort of info other than telling me what to do.

 

A 7lb fly wheel may end up slipping with the added horsepower/torque and improved acceleration.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Eran &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">A 7lb fly wheel may end up slipping with the added horsepower/torque and improved acceleration.</TD></TR></TABLE>

how is that???
its the clamping force not the weight...

 

with that setup you could push 300whp

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by USDMej1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

how is that???
its the clamping force not the weight...</TD></TR></TABLE>

This is true. I didn't read his full setup, he's got a pretty hefty clutch. But still, with that low of a rotational mass, he loses out on some top-end as well.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Eran &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

This is true. I didn't read his full setup, he's got a pretty hefty clutch. But still, with that low of a rotational mass, he loses out on some top-end as well.</TD></TR></TABLE>


You're missing the cons of having a light weight flywheel, is has nothing to do with top end power or clamping force, a too light of a flywheel for drag racing will have less inertia to get you off the line

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Eran &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'd change the tuning method, and wouldn't go with that light of a flywheel, but that sounds like a rather nice build.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Hmmm....I've heard from other people that it is better to use a heavier flywheel when going boost. The reason for the heavier flywheel is because it will take longer to lose momentum and longer for the flywheel to slow down, thus in theory, it will make it easier to stay in boost while shifting gears.

Im working on getting all of my parts together right now. I will be using a t25 turbo from an Eclipse and i also have an 8.6 lb flywheel currently installed right now. With such a small turbo i don't think i will have much of a problem with falling out of boost when shifting gears but I don't know yet.

I guess it really has to do with how good you are at shifting gears

 

Well maybe I will just get my flywheel resurfaced then. Sound like I am wasting 200 bucks buying one. Thanks for the info

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sicones &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">


You're missing the cons of having a light weight flywheel, is has nothing to do with top end power or clamping force, a too light of a flywheel for drag racing will have less inertia to get you off the line</TD></TR></TABLE>

I think you have it backwards. Inertia is "an object in motion stays in motion." Dragging off the line would imply that the object (the flywheel) is not in motion. Inertia has no play here. A light-weight flywheel actually allows you to get off the line faster because there's less rotational mass to turn from a dead stop.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Eran &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I think you have it backwards. Inertia is "an object in motion stays in motion." Dragging off the line would imply that the object (the flywheel) is not in motion. Inertia has no play here. A light-weight flywheel actually allows you to get off the line faster because there's less rotational mass to turn from a dead stop. </TD></TR></TABLE>

You're impling that we all launch from idle, it's ok that you don't understand

 

It looks like a good set-up. I just got done my turbo set-up last month. I have a 96 coupe. 1.6 non vtech. all stock with a t3 and fmu, missing link walbro255, greddy bov and a big fmic. Im running 10 psi and ran a 13.6 at 104 mph. Works good for having $500 into the whole setup