b16 swap problems

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Old Dec 10, 2006 | 12:13 PM
  #1  
109ef9's Avatar
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Default b16 swap problems

Hey if any one could provide any info on the following i would be much happy:

Just did a b16a1 (obd0) swap in my ef hatch. It cranks up and runs with out throwin any codes or the check engine lights.

How ever it smokes white smoke at idle and when you throtle it. Also it smell like un burnt gas. It was alot worse but i changed the ait sensor because it did throw a code 10. Since i did that it doesnt smell as "gasey" But i notice that at or between cylinder 1 & 2 the exaughst manifold is soaked with gas. When i unplug the spark plug wires while the car is runnin 2,3,4 the car runs shitty but when i unplug 1 no change. So i pulled the spark wire off of the spark plug and hold it to a ground and it sparks across strong. Then i take the spark plug out and put an old one in (so it wont shoot gas out of the head) I plug the spark plug to the spark plug wire and hold it to a ground and it sparks across strong. So then i unplug the injector wires one by one and it runs shitty. I have changed out the fpr and no help. I do have the injector resistor box plugged up. The hatch was a dx/auto, so i did a dpfi to mpfi, and vtec,knock sensor the whole nine yard, along with a auto to manual conv. No i did not mix up the map sensor plug and the tps plug. Yes the wires are switched at the tps. No the o2 sensor are hooked up right. Im not burning tranny fluid, coolant or oil. I read that if you take a radiator cap off and crank the car if it blows bubbles then it could be head gasket,head,craked sleeve, i done this and no bubbles. Im running out of ideas. I pulled the fuel rail, and pushed the needle in on all of the injectors and released gas, and then came back out. I took a torch tip cleaner and cleaned them out. Next week im goin to call around and see if i can find a place that cleans injectors locally.

Like i say im running out of ideas, ive went over all of the wiring and vaccum and im pretty confident that it is all good! Please if any one has any ideas or something else i can check out or any little test i can do to discover anything please let me know im itching to get this thing lined out so i can get it inspected and start driving this beast. LOL maybe not a beast but you know!

Thanks,
Travis
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Old Dec 10, 2006 | 12:50 PM
  #2  
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From: staten island, ny, united states
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a couple more things to try out..
1. Do a compression test first of all, see if compression is there on cylinder 1 and somewhat matches the rest of the cylinders.. This will help figure out why there is no change in idle while cylinder 1 is canceled out
2. Check your intake manifold gasket for leaks around cylinder 1.. white smoke usually indicates burning coolant. note: When removing the intake manifold your going to want to replace the IM gasket anyway, and retorque everything to spec.
3. Check your coolant, and oil for any signs of "Chocolate milk"
4. When the car is completely cold (sitting over night) check your valve lash clearances..

Thats about all i have for ya,, good luck
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Old Dec 10, 2006 | 01:03 PM
  #3  
109ef9's Avatar
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Default Re: (jdeemseerx)

Ok dumb questions. How do i do a a compresion test? How do i check valve lash clearence.

I do seem to hear a slight hissing sound coming from around the inake manifold i guess i can make me some soapy water so i can pin point it.

Also yesterday i let it idle for about 30 minutes and it burned half a tank of gas!

I have no loss of coolant and oil and coolant looks good.

Hey if you give me and email adress ill send you some video of it at idle and me giving it some gas. Thanks
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Old Dec 10, 2006 | 01:23 PM
  #4  
jdeemseerx's Avatar
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From: staten island, ny, united states
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To perform a compression test, you need a gauge and the connector that screws in where the spark plug is. You can get this at any parts store or rent it for an hour or 2 at some places.
Take out spark plug wire and the spark plug, screw in compression gauge..
Disconnect your Distributor plugs..
Have a friend hold the gauge, while you crank the car and hold the gas pedal to the floor..
Wait til you hear the motor make a couple revolutions and the gauge stops moving.. There is your results.. Now do it on all cylinders and compare..
As for valve lash procedures your gonna have to search cuz it is way too damn long to type in a post.
Dont use soapy water, While your getting your compression gauge also get carb cleaner or ask one of the guys what to use to find vacuum leaks..
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Old Dec 19, 2006 | 09:35 PM
  #5  
fortiercop's Avatar
 
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From: copperas cove, tx, us
Default Re: b16 swap problems (109ef9)

i have an 89 ef hatch almost same problem it was my fuel injector o ring one was completly misssing and another was dry rotted and cracked.. check them out.. good luck..
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