HPDE car Setup
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From: 13.9 at 101.76mph, 2420lbs, FL, USA
HPDE car Setup
Okay so I'm thinking about setting up my daily driver as an HPDE car. It's a 1999 Civic Ex Coupe. (D16z6-- long story)
I'm gonig to do nothing but brakes and suspension.
Suspension
I already have ground-controls I had from a previous setup and I want to reuse them. I had it setup for 350f/400r. I want to spend economically on my shocks. Can anyone give me a good idea on a set of shocks that can dampen 400lb/in rates? I don't want to spend $1000 Koni level or even $500 Koni level. I'd prefer to keep it lower than $350. If there aren't any quality alternatives, it won't be terrible to pay for the standard koni yellows.
Brakes
Will the stock braking system be enough? Obviously I will be adding performance fluid, but should I buy a set of rotors and pads for the track only? The car will be otherwise stock in speed with zero performance (speed) mods. It should weigh in around 2700lbs with me and 2850-2900 with an instructor. The last car I took to an HPDE was a 92 Hatch w/ 200whp, the stock brake system w/ perf fluid and Axxiss Ultimates all the way around. Needless to say the bitch faded within 3 turns of the very first lap. Obviously the power to weight was around 200:2500 then, now it will be 100:2900! Personally I'd rather not have to swap out discs and pads for each event, but i'm not completely opposed to it, I'd just like some friendly advice.
I appreciate any help!
I'm gonig to do nothing but brakes and suspension.
Suspension
I already have ground-controls I had from a previous setup and I want to reuse them. I had it setup for 350f/400r. I want to spend economically on my shocks. Can anyone give me a good idea on a set of shocks that can dampen 400lb/in rates? I don't want to spend $1000 Koni level or even $500 Koni level. I'd prefer to keep it lower than $350. If there aren't any quality alternatives, it won't be terrible to pay for the standard koni yellows.
Brakes
Will the stock braking system be enough? Obviously I will be adding performance fluid, but should I buy a set of rotors and pads for the track only? The car will be otherwise stock in speed with zero performance (speed) mods. It should weigh in around 2700lbs with me and 2850-2900 with an instructor. The last car I took to an HPDE was a 92 Hatch w/ 200whp, the stock brake system w/ perf fluid and Axxiss Ultimates all the way around. Needless to say the bitch faded within 3 turns of the very first lap. Obviously the power to weight was around 200:2500 then, now it will be 100:2900! Personally I'd rather not have to swap out discs and pads for each event, but i'm not completely opposed to it, I'd just like some friendly advice.
I appreciate any help!
Suspetise...
Joined: Nov 2002
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From: Burninating the peasants yo
Re: HPDE car Setup (Adam.)
Search, n00b! 
I'll help you out anyway though, cause I'm in a good mood.
OTS Koni Yellows are your best bet. They'll handle those rates, and will be better than anything else you can get around that price range (Tokico Illuminas are ok, but not as good, for example). For brakes, if you got a street/track friendly compromise pad, like the Cobalt GT-Sport, you wouldn't have to change pads/rotors all the time. They're kind of dusty and can be noisy, but if you don't mind that they're waaaay better than Ultimates.
One thing I will say, fading ANY brake pad in 3 turns means you're using the brakes way too much. I've been out on bone stockers and completed at least a lap before any fade set in. When you go out next, keep that in mind, and talk to your instructor about it. You don't have to brake kamikaze late or anything, but try compressing the braking zone.
I'll help you out anyway though, cause I'm in a good mood.
OTS Koni Yellows are your best bet. They'll handle those rates, and will be better than anything else you can get around that price range (Tokico Illuminas are ok, but not as good, for example). For brakes, if you got a street/track friendly compromise pad, like the Cobalt GT-Sport, you wouldn't have to change pads/rotors all the time. They're kind of dusty and can be noisy, but if you don't mind that they're waaaay better than Ultimates.
One thing I will say, fading ANY brake pad in 3 turns means you're using the brakes way too much. I've been out on bone stockers and completed at least a lap before any fade set in. When you go out next, keep that in mind, and talk to your instructor about it. You don't have to brake kamikaze late or anything, but try compressing the braking zone.
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From: 13.9 at 101.76mph, 2420lbs, FL, USA
Re: HPDE car Setup (Stinkycheezmonky)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Stinkycheezmonky »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Search, n00b!
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Ha! I had pretty specific questions, nothing I found suited the answers I was looking for.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Stinkycheezmonky »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
One thing I will say, fading ANY brake pad in 3 turns means you're using the brakes way too much. I've been out on bone stockers and completed at least a lap before any fade set in. When you go out next, keep that in mind, and talk to your instructor about it. You don't have to brake kamikaze late or anything, but try compressing the braking zone. </TD></TR></TABLE>
It was actually my instructor who did it. All of the instructors took the student's cars out on the recon lap to make sure the car is okay to drive. At the end of the second medium length straight the faded (Turn 8). The 2nd straight is just after the first though so not much time to cool in between. I guess I exaggerated a bit.
Regardless, they performed very subpar and made me feel uneasy about the whole thing to where I couldn't concentrate on driving and I had to worried about over doing it on the brakes.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Ha! I had pretty specific questions, nothing I found suited the answers I was looking for.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Stinkycheezmonky »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
One thing I will say, fading ANY brake pad in 3 turns means you're using the brakes way too much. I've been out on bone stockers and completed at least a lap before any fade set in. When you go out next, keep that in mind, and talk to your instructor about it. You don't have to brake kamikaze late or anything, but try compressing the braking zone.
</TD></TR></TABLE>It was actually my instructor who did it. All of the instructors took the student's cars out on the recon lap to make sure the car is okay to drive. At the end of the second medium length straight the faded (Turn 8). The 2nd straight is just after the first though so not much time to cool in between. I guess I exaggerated a bit.
Regardless, they performed very subpar and made me feel uneasy about the whole thing to where I couldn't concentrate on driving and I had to worried about over doing it on the brakes.
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From: ct, usa
Why do you want to change your suspension set-up? If you're looking to save some money, you could try changing the alignment (depending upon what you are trying to accomplish).
Stock rotors are fine (in fact, many club racing classes do not allow anything different). ATE brake fluid. Getting a performance pad couldn't hurt which as previously said can be used on the street & track. My preference is Carbotech brake pads for many reasons, but others will work too.
You may be able just use stock pads but that will depend upon the track and your driving. Getting the performance pads won't, especially to eliminate the concerns you may have back in your head while out there given your previous experience.
Stock rotors are fine (in fact, many club racing classes do not allow anything different). ATE brake fluid. Getting a performance pad couldn't hurt which as previously said can be used on the street & track. My preference is Carbotech brake pads for many reasons, but others will work too.
You may be able just use stock pads but that will depend upon the track and your driving. Getting the performance pads won't, especially to eliminate the concerns you may have back in your head while out there given your previous experience.
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From: 13.9 at 101.76mph, 2420lbs, FL, USA
Re: (granracing)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by granracing »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Why do you want to change your suspension set-up? If you're looking to save some money, you could try changing the alignment (depending upon what you are trying to accomplish).
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Accomplish? Just a decent setup, nothing spectacular, I'm looking to learn how to drive what I have fast rather than something fast to drive. I'm not looking into anything that detailed, I just wanted to get some opinions on decent shocks that can dampen those spring rates. I may also add a rear bar if at some point in my learning I feel the understeer is holding me back, but for now, just performance springs/shocks.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by granracing »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Stock rotors are fine (in fact, many club racing classes do not allow anything different). ATE brake fluid. Getting a performance pad couldn't hurt which as previously said can be used on the street & track. My preference is Carbotech brake pads for many reasons, but others will work too.
You may be able just use stock pads but that will depend upon the track and your driving. Getting the performance pads won't, especially to eliminate the concerns you may have back in your head while out there given your previous experience.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I liked the carbotech brand before. I actually had them on my last setup when it was a stolen a couple of days before my last scheduled HPDE. I think XP8s in the front Ultimates in the rear (had a full disc conversion). But really what I'm looking for is reliability and consistency, performance would be an after effect, y'know?
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Accomplish? Just a decent setup, nothing spectacular, I'm looking to learn how to drive what I have fast rather than something fast to drive. I'm not looking into anything that detailed, I just wanted to get some opinions on decent shocks that can dampen those spring rates. I may also add a rear bar if at some point in my learning I feel the understeer is holding me back, but for now, just performance springs/shocks.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by granracing »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Stock rotors are fine (in fact, many club racing classes do not allow anything different). ATE brake fluid. Getting a performance pad couldn't hurt which as previously said can be used on the street & track. My preference is Carbotech brake pads for many reasons, but others will work too.
You may be able just use stock pads but that will depend upon the track and your driving. Getting the performance pads won't, especially to eliminate the concerns you may have back in your head while out there given your previous experience.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I liked the carbotech brand before. I actually had them on my last setup when it was a stolen a couple of days before my last scheduled HPDE. I think XP8s in the front Ultimates in the rear (had a full disc conversion). But really what I'm looking for is reliability and consistency, performance would be an after effect, y'know?
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From: Bowie, MD, USA
Re: (Adam.)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Adam. »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'm looking to learn how to drive what I have fast rather than something fast to drive.</TD></TR></TABLE>
If your looking learn i would say stay with what you have and change them when you have tried everything (driving) to them (unless your struts are blown).
The sad part is lately i haven't been listening to my own preaching and has been hurting my driving.
If your looking learn i would say stay with what you have and change them when you have tried everything (driving) to them (unless your struts are blown).
The sad part is lately i haven't been listening to my own preaching and has been hurting my driving.
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From: Aliso Viejo, Ca, USA
Re: HPDE car Setup (Adam.)
If all you're going to change are the shocks, why skimp? Spend the extra 1-200 on a set of Konis and move on.
As for the brakes, did you have fresh fluid in the car when you went to the track? It doesn't need to be expensive ATE, Motul, etc; it just needs to be fresh.
Just because the instructors can smoke your brakes doesn't mean you will right now. He might have glazed your pads causing the sub par performance the rest of the day.
Take care of the basics and have a good time. Learning to drive using a modified car will have you blaming the car more than the driver.
As for the brakes, did you have fresh fluid in the car when you went to the track? It doesn't need to be expensive ATE, Motul, etc; it just needs to be fresh.
Just because the instructors can smoke your brakes doesn't mean you will right now. He might have glazed your pads causing the sub par performance the rest of the day.
Take care of the basics and have a good time. Learning to drive using a modified car will have you blaming the car more than the driver.
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From: SoCal, CA, USA
Re: (granracing)
I use the castrol synpower dot 3/4 fluid that comes in the gold bottle. a big bottle is like $6, and the newer formula has an even higher (500 degrees I think) boiling point.
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From: 13.9 at 101.76mph, 2420lbs, FL, USA
Re: HPDE car Setup (Jasper_db1)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Jasper_db1 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If all you're going to change are the shocks, why skimp? Spend the extra 1-200 on a set of Konis and move on.
As for the brakes, did you have fresh fluid in the car when you went to the track? It doesn't need to be expensive ATE, Motul, etc; it just needs to be fresh.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
I used the Ford High performance stuff, won't be using it again though.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Jasper_db1 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Just because the instructors can smoke your brakes doesn't mean you will right now. He might have glazed your pads causing the sub par performance the rest of the day. </TD></TR></TABLE>
True, I didn't think about that, lol.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Jasper_db1 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Take care of the basics and have a good time. Learning to drive using a modified car will have you blaming the car more than the driver.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yea, I figure a fresh set of street radials, street/track pads & fluid, and good shocks will be the best thing for me.
Thanks for the help guys, I know what to do now.
As for the brakes, did you have fresh fluid in the car when you went to the track? It doesn't need to be expensive ATE, Motul, etc; it just needs to be fresh.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
I used the Ford High performance stuff, won't be using it again though.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Jasper_db1 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Just because the instructors can smoke your brakes doesn't mean you will right now. He might have glazed your pads causing the sub par performance the rest of the day. </TD></TR></TABLE>
True, I didn't think about that, lol.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Jasper_db1 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Take care of the basics and have a good time. Learning to drive using a modified car will have you blaming the car more than the driver.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yea, I figure a fresh set of street radials, street/track pads & fluid, and good shocks will be the best thing for me.
Thanks for the help guys, I know what to do now.
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From: Aliso Viejo, Ca, USA
Re: HPDE car Setup (Adam.)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Adam. »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I used the Ford High performance stuff</TD></TR></TABLE>
You used FORD fluid in a Honda? Say it isn't so!
JK, I use the Castrol GTLMA DOT4 in both my motorcycles and my car. I just change it with every oil change - speed bleeders rock.
You used FORD fluid in a Honda? Say it isn't so!
JK, I use the Castrol GTLMA DOT4 in both my motorcycles and my car. I just change it with every oil change - speed bleeders rock.
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From: 13.9 at 101.76mph, 2420lbs, FL, USA
Re: HPDE car Setup (Jasper_db1)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Jasper_db1 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
You used FORD fluid in a Honda? Say it isn't so!
JK, I use the Castrol GTLMA DOT4 in both my motorcycles and my car. I just change it with every oil change - speed bleeders rock. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Link?
You used FORD fluid in a Honda? Say it isn't so!
JK, I use the Castrol GTLMA DOT4 in both my motorcycles and my car. I just change it with every oil change - speed bleeders rock.
</TD></TR></TABLE>Link?
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From: Aliso Viejo, Ca, USA
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