Well today an annoying noise started. I went to back out of my garage and I heard this horrible squeel coming from the rear driver side brake (The same squeel that cars make when they have bad brakes, UNDER BRAKING CONDITIONS), I backed all the way out and drove forward a bit, then reverse, and it kept up. If the wheel's spinning, it's making a noise.

So I said screw it and just drove, a minute later it went away, when I came to a stop. So I figured it was gone, started driving again, and it started up again.

So far I've figured out a way to make it go away. Let's say I'm at 45MPH and it starts, I drop to fourth gear (Fifth can't pull hard enough) and go WOT, and pull the E-Brake up about 75%. The noise goes away. HOWEVER, if I release the handle, the noise will come back randomly (It seems that bumps will set it off, or a sharp turn).

The only way to keep it gone, is to have the E-Brake up just one click, this is, for some reason, enough to keep it away.

I'm at a loss of what it could be... It just comes around randomly, I'm not even braking, and it seems that the only thing that will take it away is putting pressure on the rear by the method discribed above. Although, the brakes do a feel a bit weak, perhaps they're due for a change, but I've never heard of this happening from worn out pads... Kind of weird.

Anyone have any advice/input? I guess I'm about to go start taking it apart to see if there's anything obviously wrong.

Thanks in advance.

 

Change the pads. If that doesnt help check the wheel bearings. If that doesnt work try the Kneuder valve

 

God I hope it's not the wheel bearing, I really don't feel like messing with that.

I'm trying the pads tomorrow. By the way, I did some searching and couldn't find anything... What's a Kneuder Valve?

 

Any other ideas guys?

 

It's the brake pad. It sounds like the wear indicator thingy is rubbing against the rotor and making it's singing/squealing sound. Only the inner pads have it, because they tend to wear faster and they're harder to inspect.

You can pull back on the indicator a bit to bend it out some, to make it less noisy for a little while. But start shopping for rear pads.

 

Well it can sit in the garage until I can get new pads, that's not a problem, I just needed to know what it was.

Appreciate the information Chris F, my buddy said the same thing, so I'll go ahead and hope that's it.

We'll see if Honda has the pads in stock, if so, hopefully it'll be fixed tomorrow.

 

I'll put out a +1 for Raybestos dust-free pads for the rear. They'brake fine for street/autocross, and they're effin' dust free.

There exist mixed opinions of the track-worthiness off the OEM pads. I say they're good or autoX, trash for HPDE, Ken Sax thinks they're fine for HPDE. I'm wondering if 1998 and 2000+ had different compounds. But, I don't think anyone is capable of cooking the rear brake pads

 

Haha, I think OEM will do fine for my car... The only braking it sees is Shitty traffic, and backroad braking once a week or so, I'm not TOO concerned with strengthening my braking, OEM's doing fine for now.

I'll definately keep the Raybestos Dust-Free pads in mind when I look to updrade though. Once again, thanks for the input Chris.

 

The Raybestos pads would be a sideways-grade, not really an upgrade. They're better for street driving (IMO, I hate cleaning brake dust) and cheaper at Autozone/NAPA/Pep Boys. OEM parts are often too expensive. $25-$35 pads are out there and the OEM's are a bit more than that. ($58 MSRP on the rear OEM pads, $50 front)

YMMV.. OEM brakes are totally fine and a safe choice, since they'll be matching the fronts..

 

Even if it was the wheel bearings, you and a friend + a press equals about two hours of work to change it out (if your slow).

If you do have to change the wheels bearing, I'd simply suggest you replace both fronts with new axles as well. Just get it all done at once.

 

^ This is exactly why I don't feel like messing with it right now... Money. It's holiday season my man, I'm low on cash.

Chris, that's what my state of mind is, they'll match the fronts, and when I have more money to blow, I'll get some better aftermarket pads. However, for now, OEM will do just fine.

 

sorry, I was jsut messin with you about the Kneuder valve thing. Its like blinker fluid and muffler bearings. Definately check the brakes first, wheel bearings arent as easy.

 

thats funny he fell for the kneuder valve......jordy we told you this yesterday, but i guess you had to make it know to everyone......did you put up a myspace bulletin about it.

 

Grease the slide pins while your in there.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Haleiwa-Brando &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Even if it was the wheel bearings, you and a friend + a press equals about two hours of work to change it out (if your slow).

If you do have to change the wheels bearing, I'd simply suggest you replace both fronts with new axles as well. Just get it all done at once. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Why replace axles while ur doing wheel bearings?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by walker111 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Why replace axles while ur doing wheel bearings?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Because the ****'s already apart I suppose? I've replaced axles a couple of times, it's easier for me to do them by themselves than to pop the tie rod end and UCA ball joint out of the knuckle. But, if you have the knucke off anyway, it's not really any extra effort to replace axles (just $250-$500 in parts?)

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Chris F &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Because the ****'s already apart I suppose? I've replaced axles a couple of times, it's easier for me to do them by themselves than to pop the tie rod end and UCA ball joint out of the knuckle. But, if you have the knucke off anyway, it's not really any extra effort to replace axles (just $250-$500 in parts?)
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yes, because they are apart and could always use some grease. Replacing axles when not necessary is just overkill for me. Since its a street car, axles should last along time! I replaced my stock axles at 104k. Used some vatozone replacements Plus it only takes me about 20 minutes to replace an axle.

 

Well, bad news guys.

I've always said, it feels like my car ALWAYS has the E-Brake up while I'm driving. Well, tonight I made a point to check them, and they're fine.

However, I became curious as to why the driver's side brake pads are so Damn worn down, and the passenger side has so much meat left.

Driver side on left, passenger side on right...


The passenger side rear rotating assembly spins so freely, and the driver side, I have to muscle for it to turn.

Well, I found out why tonight. The piston in the rear driver side caliper can't retract into the caliper fully, the furthest is will go in, is about 60%. Meaning, the rear driver side brakes are always about 40% locked up.

The piston is supposed to be flush with the caliper, yes, that IS tightened down as far as it will go.


So, time to fix it.

Are Type-R rear calipers "Type-R Exclusive" parts, or can another substitute just as well? EM1? GSR?

Any input is greatly appreciated.

 

Just rebuild the caliper. I believe Acura even sells a rebuild kit.

 

Hmmm... That's a thought, only thing is, how do you do that?

 

01473-SV4-000 CALIPER SEAL KIT $18.34

#1


http://www.barancoacuraparts.c...dIrno=

How-to (scroll down for the rear's);
http://www.performanceforum.co....html

Ali

 

Thats it.....thanks Ali.

The Helms manual should have all the info needed to rebuild the calipers.

 

nice ali

 

You are THE MAN, Ali.

Appreciate the input/help guys. It's a big help.

... I love this site, haha.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by GO-FIGHT-KILL &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You are THE MAN, Ali. </TD></TR></TABLE>

hahah, thanks.

Ali

 

Damn that sucks