Im in the market to buy a full coilover setup for my 91 crx si.
I wanted to hear peoples expirences and thoughts on the diffrent brands.

Thanks in advance.

 

I ran vis spec ii coilovers(ots rates) + tokico blues and feel they were modest in comparison with my current setup. I'm currently running KSport Kontrol pros with 12k front / 10k rear springs. The setup is very stiff. The rebound adjustability is good but is nowhere good with the spring rates i'm using. Soft rebound setting usually sends me jolting upward when hitting bumps whereas a stiffer setting just pushes me around in my seat when hitting bumps. (considering an upgrade to a bucket seat + 4 point harness).

Performancewise, i'm able to corner much better and take long sweeping turns at much higher speeds. Overall, very happy with the performance and not too mad about lost of ride comfort. Although, I do have to be careful as to not drive to fast to avoid going airborne.

Great set of coilovers for a dirt cheap price

 

For the price, you can't really beat Ksport Kontrol Pro coilovers. They ride really nice, plus you can order custom spring rates.

 

when its height adjustiable and is in its lowest position is the lca consistant with orginal spec?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 0gravity &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">when its height adjustiable and is in its lowest position is the lca consistant with orginal spec?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Lowering the car will change the LCA angle. You can't not change it if you change ride height, unless you get custom drop knuckles made up.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TunerN00b &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
...unless you get custom drop knuckles made up.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Even that will only lower your car 1"-1.5"...

 

Ok this is what im looking for a fully adjustiable set up ie. height, dampening, adjustable sway bars. i want to corner weigh it for the perfect balance.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 0gravity &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Ok this is what im looking for a fully adjustiable set up ie. height, dampening, adjustable sway bars. i want to corner weigh it for the perfect balance. </TD></TR></TABLE>

if you looking to get that serious then you are going to have a rather rough riding, uneven car.

full coilover is just a hype term that manufactures created. You crx has a coilover suspension on it from the factory.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by slammed_93_hatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

if you looking to get that serious then you are going to have a rather rough riding, uneven car.

full coilover is just a hype term that manufactures created. You crx has a coilover suspension on it from the factory.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I understand the riding rough and uneven if i set it up that way. Correct me if im wrong but "coilover" from the factory are you refering to the coil over the strut being one pice. Then yea i agree it is but it dosent help the ajustability issue.

 

Keep in mind that the "full coil-overs" that your asking about, make fine tuning ride height a ridiculous chore. Unlike sleeve-type coil-overs, full coil-overs must be adjusted by spinning the lower perch of the entire shock. Since the spring remains preloaded all the time, it becomes necisary to disconnect the lower mount from the LCA (or damper fork in the front) EVERY TIME you want to adjust the ride height.

If you've ever fine tuned ride height on a vehicle with regular sleeves, you know that simply jacking the car up, loosening the lock screw, spinning the collar, securing the lock screw, letting the car down, settling the springs, and then repeating the process is already a PITA. Now imagine you have to jack the car up, loosen the lower jam-nut, disconnect the lower shock mount, pull the LCA out of the way, then spin the lower mount, reconnect the lower mount, secure the jam nut, etc...

Just get the Koni/GC w/ a pair of GC top mounts for the front. It will out-perform all the other sub-$1k stuff anyways...

 

Actually, its not necessary to disconnect the lower fork at all. The entire coilover assembly can remain installed during the adjustment process.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PIC Performance &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Actually, its not necessary to disconnect the lower fork at all. The entire coilover assembly can remain installed during the adjustment process. </TD></TR></TABLE>

I'm assuming you mean simply spinning the threaded shock body instead of actually turning the lower mount. I cannot see how this would be possible if the springs have any preload on them. Won't the pressure on the lower spring perches prevent the shock body from turning?

If you assembled the coil-over without any preload on the spring, this would work fine, but most instructions say you are supposed to preload the system before install, so that is what people will do...

Please elaborate...

 

The instructions that tell you to pre-load are misleading, because they don't tell you how much to preload, so people might go crazy and compress the spring half an inch or more. Its just not necessary to do, since you only need to make sure there's no up-down play in the spring at full droop.

Turning the entire shock assembly within the lower mount requires you to have the spring perch and spring perch lock tightened against each other very tightly so that when you turn one, the other turns in the same direction, and the entire shock body turns, as if they are all one piece. So you effectively just moving the shock itself up and down inside the lower mount, without changing the load on the spring. So you see whether or not the spring turns doesn't matter, sometimes it will, sometimes it won't.

To address what you are talking about, it *could* become very difficult to turn the shock if you had the spring compressed a lot, but it shouldn't be that way anyhow. And it would still be do-able (I tried it once).

 

Thanks for the explanation. I have seen instructions (I think its Omni) that tell the user to preload the spring with the weight of the vehicle before completely threading on the shock shaft top-nut. In this case, I don't think you would be able to spin the shock body. If the shocks are assembled the way you described, I don't see any problem...

 

I dont mind the hassel of taking anything apart constantly Im lucky to have access to a lift.
But is it omni that makes this fullcoilover setup.
I was debating that system are there any issues with the designe and or company?
If its quality ill probably get a set. The set up i have now is way to crappy for me anymore.
Oh and thanks for the dissusion on adjustablity.